Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-25-2019, 09:20 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 10
Questions on shore power

I am wanting to wire my bus up so that it runs solely on shore power. The bus will be completely run on AC power. My questiin is what is the best way for me to do this? Is there an easy way to hook in a breaker box that will just run on a 30 or 50 amp service?
Arnolddivorce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 06:50 PM   #2
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 90
Just wire it like a standard house using your shore like as the power source. Just either only use one buss bar or tie them together at the input with a suitable jumper wire.
Iqinsanity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 07:43 PM   #3
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iqinsanity View Post
Just wire it like a standard house using your shore like as the power source. Just either only use one buss bar or tie them together at the input with a suitable jumper wire.
you don`t need to ground the 120v shore power to the bus - shore power has it`s own ground - just make sure your wires and extension cord have 3 wires so none of your appliances, lights are hot
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 07:51 PM   #4
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,908
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
To avoid a potential hot skin condition you do need to ground your AC panel to the bus body. Without the ground a loose hot wire touching the bus skin would not trip the breaker and someone touching the bus skin could be shocked.

Use a "branch" breaker box with separate ground and neutral bus bars. AC grounds and neutrals should only be joined ("bonded") at the main shore power panel.


Installing AC alone is fairly straight forward compared to a combined AC/DC system but doing it wrong can be fatal. There are plenty of "how to's" online that will show you how to physically wire your system. A little due diligence now will save headaches later.
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 07:53 PM   #5
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 90
Technically youre right, but grounding through the box is just insurance. If he has to ask how to do it then it makes sense to keep it simple and safe. Wire it like a house, but pay attention to the fact that you have one line in not two.

I admit i missed the part where you treat it like a subpanel.

I second the advice not to tie neutral to ground and lwt the shore line do it at its source.
Iqinsanity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 08:04 PM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,908
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iqinsanity View Post
Technically youre right, but grounding through the box is just insurance.

Insurance, yes, but insurance against a potentially fatal shock. This is not just a theoretical problem. If the OP chooses a 50 amp system there will be two hot wires coming in to the bus panel.
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 08:11 PM   #7
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 619
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Be nice if there was a quick and painless wiring diagram, as well as a list of components to purchase in order to get a simple AC "system" added to a bus.
It could already be on here somewhere, but too much searching is required to actually locate same...
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 08:14 PM   #8
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 90
Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.
Iqinsanity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 08:22 PM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,908
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iqinsanity View Post
Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.

__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 08:30 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 619
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iqinsanity View Post
Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.
Excellent point...^
I'm just saying it would be nice to be able to put together a basic pile of new, needed parts ahead of calling in a "Pro" to correctly install AC power to a bus.
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 08:47 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
HazMatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 1,997
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
Which, somebody correct me if I'm wrong,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iqinsanity View Post
Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.
Is what he did, here!
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
HazMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 09:27 PM   #12
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,908
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Here’s a basic hardware list for a 30 amp AC only system. This is standard residential wiring, not RV DC stuff:


1) You’ll need a 30 amp RV receptacle for the outside of the bus. A 30 amp RV extension cord will connect this to the shore power panel.

2) Add a small breaker sub panel. A sub panel will have separate ground and neutral bus bars. Ground this panel to the steel bus body.

3) Install a 30 amp breaker as a main shutoff. Your incoming shore panel connection will attach to this breaker.

4) Install enough breakers for your planned circuits. Use 15 amp breakers for normal loads and 20 amp breakers for the high draw stuff like resistance electric heaters and air conditioners. Put high draw appliances on their own circuits/breakers.

5) Connect the RV receptacle and the sub panel with 10 gauge flexible wire. Armored cable is a good choice.

6) Install plastic wall boxes for switches and outlets.

7) Connect the wall boxes to the sub panel with 14 gauge wire for the 15 amp breakers and 12 gauge wire for the 20 amp breakers. Stranded wire resists vibration breakage better than solid wire.

8- Install a 4” light box for each light fixture. The light boxes will be wired to the switch boxes. 14 gauge wire is fine for light circuits.

9) Add switch plates and outlet plates and you’re done.... except for wiring the fridge and the furnace and the fans and the water pump and.............
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 09:37 PM   #13
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I find this to be helpful for basics. Picture diagrams with full parts lists including wire gauge and all



https://www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams/
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 09:39 PM   #14
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 619
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Many thanks Mr. Roach!
I'm going with your suggestions to get supplies and components ready, and like the tip on stranded wire vs solid. Makes great sense considering the vibes that wiring and everything else is subject to while travelling.

Is there a MC type that comes with stranded in it from the factory or would it need to be "custom" made?

I envisioned using MC type vs running the wires inside walls or using EMT type conduit. Personal preference, I think it looks better!

Thanks again for the "list"...
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 09:45 PM   #15
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 619
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I find this to be helpful for basics. Picture diagrams with full parts lists including wire gauge and all



https://www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams/
^...That would be good for someone planning on adding a solar component however, it's just way overkill for getting a "basic" AC connection going.
I suppose one could ferret out all of the added wiring and myriad other components associated with solar, but it gives me a headache when I try to pick it apart for what I'm trying to do. I only went as far as Jr. High electrical shop!
But thanks for the link Marc, as others might find it useful for their builds...
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 10:09 PM   #16
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,908
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59 View Post
Is there a MC type that comes with stranded in it from the factory or would it need to be "custom" made?

I envisioned using MC type vs running the wires inside walls or using EMT type conduit. Personal preference, I think it looks better!

Thanks again for the "list"...

Here's your basic armored cable. 14/2 means 14 gauge hot & neutral plus a ground wire. More expensive than individual stranded wires but no need to run conduit which would be a serious pain. Edit: This wire has an aluminum ground but you'll want copper instead

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...9301/202562779
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 02:26 AM   #17
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt View Post
Which, somebody correct me if I'm wrong,Is what he did, here!
Sorry you feel that way, but this isnt something to take lightly.
Iqinsanity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 01:50 PM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 10
Thank you Roach711

I guess I should have been a little more clear with my question. I can wire in all of the electric, the plugs the light and the switches with no problem. My question was really more about the breaker box itself.
Do they make a box with a 30 amp plug already built into it? Or am I going to have to instal a plug on the outside and run wires from the plut too the bteaker box?
Arnolddivorce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 02:48 PM   #19
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnolddivorce View Post
Thank you Roach711

I guess I should have been a little more clear with my question. I can wire in all of the electric, the plugs the light and the switches with no problem. My question was really more about the breaker box itself.
Do they make a box with a 30 amp plug already built into it? Or am I going to have to instal a plug on the outside and run wires from the plut too the bteaker box?
You need to install a shore power socket to the side of the bus.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190622_135439.jpg (63.5 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20190622_135433.jpg (56.1 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20190622_135532.jpg (68.4 KB, 10 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 02:51 PM   #20
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,908
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
I've never seen a sub panel with a 30 amp plug for sale. That's not to say they don't exist.

You could wire a 30amp cord directly to the panel. If the panel was near the rear of the bus you wouldn't loose too much length. Those cords are pricey and shorter is cheaper.

Adding a plug in receptacle wouldn't be too hard if the panel was big enough to allow it.


Most install a receptacle on the body like Mark did.
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×