Questions on shore power

[Arnolddivorce]

I am wanting to wire my bus up so that it runs solely on shore power. The bus will be completely run on AC power. My questiin is what is the best way for me to do this? Is there an easy way to hook in a breaker box that will just run on a 30 or 50 amp service?

[Iqinsanity]

Just wire it like a standard house using your shore like as the power source. Just either only use one buss bar or tie them together at the input with a suitable jumper wire.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Iqinsanity

Just wire it like a standard house using your shore like as the power source. Just either only use one buss bar or tie them together at the input with a suitable jumper wire.

you don`t need to ground the 120v shore power to the bus - shore power has it`s own ground - just make sure your wires and extension cord have 3 wires so none of your appliances, lights are hot

[roach711]

To avoid a potential hot skin condition you do need to ground your AC panel to the bus body. Without the ground a loose hot wire touching the bus skin would not trip the breaker and someone touching the bus skin could be shocked.

Use a "branch" breaker box with separate ground and neutral bus bars. AC grounds and neutrals should only be joined ("bonded") at the main shore power panel.


Installing AC alone is fairly straight forward compared to a combined AC/DC system but doing it wrong can be fatal. There are plenty of "how to's" online that will show you how to physically wire your system. A little due diligence now will save headaches later.

[Iqinsanity]

Technically youre right, but grounding through the box is just insurance. If he has to ask how to do it then it makes sense to keep it simple and safe. Wire it like a house, but pay attention to the fact that you have one line in not two.

I admit i missed the part where you treat it like a subpanel.

I second the advice not to tie neutral to ground and lwt the shore line do it at its source.

[roach711]

Originally Posted by Iqinsanity

Technically youre right, but grounding through the box is just insurance.

Insurance, yes, but insurance against a potentially fatal shock. This is not just a theoretical problem. If the OP chooses a 50 amp system there will be two hot wires coming in to the bus panel.

[peteg59]

Be nice if there was a quick and painless wiring diagram, as well as a list of components to purchase in order to get a simple AC "system" added to a bus.
It could already be on here somewhere, but too much searching is required to actually locate same...

[Iqinsanity]

Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.

[roach711]

Originally Posted by Iqinsanity

Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.

[peteg59]

Originally Posted by Iqinsanity

Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.

Excellent point...^
I'm just saying it would be nice to be able to put together a basic pile of new, needed parts ahead of calling in a "Pro" to correctly install AC power to a bus.

[HazMatt]

Which, somebody correct me if I'm wrong,

Originally Posted by Iqinsanity

Honestly, and absolutely no disrespet to anyone, but if you have to ask the full basics then find a friend to help who's knowledgeable.

Is what he did, here!

[roach711]

Here’s a basic hardware list for a 30 amp AC only system. This is standard residential wiring, not RV DC stuff:


1) You’ll need a 30 amp RV receptacle for the outside of the bus. A 30 amp RV extension cord will connect this to the shore power panel.

2) Add a small breaker sub panel. A sub panel will have separate ground and neutral bus bars. Ground this panel to the steel bus body.

3) Install a 30 amp breaker as a main shutoff. Your incoming shore panel connection will attach to this breaker.

4) Install enough breakers for your planned circuits. Use 15 amp breakers for normal loads and 20 amp breakers for the high draw stuff like resistance electric heaters and air conditioners. Put high draw appliances on their own circuits/breakers.

5) Connect the RV receptacle and the sub panel with 10 gauge flexible wire. Armored cable is a good choice.

6) Install plastic wall boxes for switches and outlets.

7) Connect the wall boxes to the sub panel with 14 gauge wire for the 15 amp breakers and 12 gauge wire for the 20 amp breakers. Stranded wire resists vibration breakage better than solid wire.

8- Install a 4” light box for each light fixture. The light boxes will be wired to the switch boxes. 14 gauge wire is fine for light circuits.

9) Add switch plates and outlet plates and you’re done.... except for wiring the fridge and the furnace and the fans and the water pump and.............

[o1marc]

I find this to be helpful for basics. Picture diagrams with full parts lists including wire gauge and all



https://www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams/

[peteg59]

Many thanks Mr. Roach!
I'm going with your suggestions to get supplies and components ready, and like the tip on stranded wire vs solid. Makes great sense considering the vibes that wiring and everything else is subject to while travelling.

Is there a MC type that comes with stranded in it from the factory or would it need to be "custom" made?

I envisioned using MC type vs running the wires inside walls or using EMT type conduit. Personal preference, I think it looks better!

Thanks again for the "list"...

[peteg59]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I find this to be helpful for basics. Picture diagrams with full parts lists including wire gauge and all



https://www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams/

^...That would be good for someone planning on adding a solar component however, it's just way overkill for getting a "basic" AC connection going.
I suppose one could ferret out all of the added wiring and myriad other components associated with solar, but it gives me a headache when I try to pick it apart for what I'm trying to do. I only went as far as Jr. High electrical shop!
But thanks for the link Marc, as others might find it useful for their builds...

[roach711]

Originally Posted by peteg59

Is there a MC type that comes with stranded in it from the factory or would it need to be "custom" made?

I envisioned using MC type vs running the wires inside walls or using EMT type conduit. Personal preference, I think it looks better!

Thanks again for the "list"...

Here's your basic armored cable. 14/2 means 14 gauge hot & neutral plus a ground wire. More expensive than individual stranded wires but no need to run conduit which would be a serious pain. Edit: This wire has an aluminum ground but you'll want copper instead

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...9301/202562779

[Iqinsanity]

Originally Posted by HazMatt

Which, somebody correct me if I'm wrong,Is what he did, here!

Sorry you feel that way, but this isnt something to take lightly.

[Arnolddivorce]

Thank you Roach711

I guess I should have been a little more clear with my question. I can wire in all of the electric, the plugs the light and the switches with no problem. My question was really more about the breaker box itself.
Do they make a box with a 30 amp plug already built into it? Or am I going to have to instal a plug on the outside and run wires from the plut too the bteaker box?

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Arnolddivorce

Thank you Roach711

I guess I should have been a little more clear with my question. I can wire in all of the electric, the plugs the light and the switches with no problem. My question was really more about the breaker box itself.
Do they make a box with a 30 amp plug already built into it? Or am I going to have to instal a plug on the outside and run wires from the plut too the bteaker box?

You need to install a shore power socket to the side of the bus.

[roach711]

I've never seen a sub panel with a 30 amp plug for sale. That's not to say they don't exist.

You could wire a 30amp cord directly to the panel. If the panel was near the rear of the bus you wouldn't loose too much length. Those cords are pricey and shorter is cheaper.

Adding a plug in receptacle wouldn't be too hard if the panel was big enough to allow it.


Most install a receptacle on the body like Mark did.