Quote:
Originally Posted by Whywalk
]Yeah, probably just reseating the relays (or tapping them) took care of the issue.
That’s what I thought, too…until it stopped working again. ��
The door will not open via switch; I use the emergency lever attached to the linkage. When I close, I slide that lever to the right and lightly pull the door slightly closed til I feel the gear engage and then hit the close button and it’ll close.
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Thanks for the kind words. See below for information that might apply in your troubleshooting.
So if the door is a bifold (two parts), there is connecting hardware that makes them swing in unison.
Before you reach into that compartment with all those mechanical parts you'll need to make sure power is off, and there is no chance for the switch to accidentally run the door motor. You could get seriously hurt with the door mechanicals!
Connected to that 'connecting rod' should be another rod with the linear motor (a screw shaft), which runs forward and reverse from a two way switch on your dash-that's the door opening switch.
That rod that connects the two doors and causes them to swing open or shut usually has a couple of limit switches that stop the motor, so it doesn't try to open or close the doors too far. When the rod moves back and forth the limit switches move back and forth and the switch lever is pushed up or down depending on where it is along the shaft.
My bus limit switches are a little older than yours, and they were just plain worn; so I just took them out and worked them until the switches began working again. To check and make sure they worked correctly I used an Ohm Meter that checks for continuity across the switch.
A wiring diagram might help you, but even without a diagram you should be able to test each pole of the limit switch, even without removing them or disconnecting the wires.
For instance, on my bus, I have two limit switches, and each has a whole bunch of wires connecting into perhaps five lugs on a single switch.
But the limit switch has a very specific purpose: when the little lever on the switch is up, it either opens the circuit so no voltage can flow, or it closes a circuit so that voltage can flow.
There are a couple of lugs, or poles, and there are marks on the switch next to each lug, 'NO' or 'NC'. That means 'normally open' or normally closed'. Moreover, the wires connected to those switches are color coded.
You don't necessarily need to know what the wire does to test the switch-you just need to know that when the little lever on the switch is in one position it means voltage can flow across the switch, connecting the colored wires; and when it is in the other position voltage doesn't flow.
[This is where you really need to make sure the power is off to the door and it can't be operated while you are putting your hands in that mechanism!]
The test is to push the lever up or down (depending on its current position) to see if the voltage either can flow, or no longer can flow across the two poles of the switch.
Here is one scenario. Your switch levers may operate backwards from this, but the idea is that in one position, the switch is on, and in the other, it is 'off':
lever up->NO->the lug on the other side is electrically connected so voltage can flow;
Lever down->NO->the lug on the other side is no longer connected so voltage no longer flows.
A defective switch will remain either on or off regardless of the position of the switch; and that, my friend, is going to be where your problem lies.
In my bus there are white, green and orange wires, and they all run in crazy directions across those switches. But the switch is literally turning on and off the connection for each color, so it was relatively simple for me to determine where to put the leads of the ohm meter (or continuity detector).
Let us know how you do!
Linear Mode
