Renogy dc dc charger very hot

[Seb1]

Hi y’all, when I turn on my renogy 60A dc dc charger, it gets very hot very quickly (more than 150 F). Is that normal ?

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by Seb1

Hi y’all, when I turn on my renogy 60A dc dc charger, it gets very hot very quickly (more than 150 F). Is that normal ?

I didn't know they sold them that large.

Heat comes from resistance. Are your wires sized correctly? Is this a hybrid (alternator plus solar panel input)? Is the input voltage below maximum for the device?

And if your DCDC is that hot (I'm guessing that's the max operating temperature that thing should see), have you checked the temperature of the alternator? That is a LOT of amps to push.

[john61ct]

Not normal.

Reduce the amps pulled ASAP.

I know Sterling BB series had a similar issue, install location needs to be cool and well ventilated, fans need to be working well.

QC on those Renogy not so great

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Not normal.

Reduce the amps pulled ASAP.

I know Sterling BB series had a similar issue, install location needs to be cool and well ventilated, fans need to be working well.

QC on those Renogy not so great

Another thing about Renogy DCDC chargers is they are turned on (activated) with a relay line you connect to the ignition or other running circuit. They run when the engine is on, even if at idle. How is your device activated?

I haven't installed mine because I want a way to turn on the device only at elevated RPMs.

[john61ct]

DC-DC often have ACR/VSR functionality built in.

Unit switched on automatically once input side voltage detected over a certain setpoint, say 14.1V

That way it's useful for any charge source, not just the alt

[Mr4btTahoe]

I'd say no. What size are your power and ground cables on both sides? Check connections as well and make sure you don't have any corrosion or loose connections.


How long is your wire run on both sides of the charger?




After that, if it's still getting hot hot, I'd consider calling Renogy for warranty.

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by john61ct

DC-DC often have ACR/VSR functionality built in.

Unit switched on automatically once input side voltage detected over a certain setpoint, say 14.1V

That way it's useful for any charge source, not just the alt

What's ACR/VSR mean?

So you're indicating that the input voltage sensed is what controls the charging? Makes sense, but I don't know how input voltage will vary with alternator RPM. My point is that the only cooling you have for the alternator is the fins behind the alternator pulley, so RPM and cooling have a linear relationship. The setpoint may be triggered at idle, for all we know, right?

[john61ct]

> What's ACR/VSR mean?

Exactly what I said, read it again. Blue Sea makes great ones.

Combiner is a more generic term, invented by Ann-Marie Foster of*Yandina*Ltd

Originally Posted by Rucker

So you're indicating that the input voltage sensed is what controls the charging? Makes sense, but I don't know how input voltage will vary with alternator RPM.

No need to know, the point is to only inflict the load when voltage is high enough.

Charging at idle would be great!

But unlikely.

Heat loading comes from amps being demanded, not voltage.

If the alt can't handle it, upgrade it

or reduce the amps being pulled.

External VR like Balmar ARS-5 and MC-614, or Wakespeed can also do it, but the DCDC is cheaper and more flexible.

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by john61ct

> What's ACR/VSR mean?

Exactly what I said, read it again. Blue Sea makes great ones.
Combiner is a more generic term, invented by Ann-Marie Foster of*Yandina*Ltd

No need to know, the point is to only inflict the load when voltage is high enough.
Charging at idle would be great!
But unlikely.
Heat loading comes from amps being demanded, not voltage.
If the alt can't handle it, upgrade it
or reduce the amps being pulled.
External VR like Balmar ARS-5 and MC-614, or Wakespeed can also do it, but the DCDC is cheaper and more flexible.

Let me try this one again.

The original poster had an issue with his DCDC charger. Let's stay focused on that.

And if you don't mind, it is a courtesy to simply write whatever the acronym is for instead of ask me to read it again.

OP, regardless of what others may post, burdening an alternator with high demand at low RPMs reduces the life of the device.

[Seb1]

Thanks all for great input !
First time i use this DCDC, so I am still experimenting.
Wiring to DCDC (from bus batteries) is 4 AWG, same for wiring from DCDC to + and - bus bars to which house batteries are connected. Wring on both sides is relatively short (between 1 and 2 feet).
I isolated the DCDC with breakers on input and output to DCDC.
When I switch those breakers on and drive for let's say 1h, the DCDC gets very hot even though it's cooling fan is blowing. Seems to be working though because house batteries seem to be charging from it. But because of the temperature and because it is in the same compartment as my whole electric system including batteries, there is no way I can keep it on all the time.
When I chose the 60A version, I thought it would charge the house batteries faster if depleted during the night. Maybe I should be less greedy and change to the 20A version ?

[john61ct]

Yes limiting the current is likely to help if it isn't just a faulty unit, but I would still go Sterling BB rather than sticking with Renogy.

But putting it in a cool spot with high ventilation would be the first thing to try IMO, the Sterlings need that too. Use the BSS Circuit Wizard to check your wire AWG, and inspect your connections at the DCDC too

use a temp probe or infrared, that they aren't actually getting hot, just the internal circuitry.

Manual switching on and off works fine, but I would think gets old.

A high-temp cutoff / delay might be kludgey but work for now.

Have you told us yet about House bank, is it LFP or Lead? How many Ah?

[Seb1]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Yes limiting the current is likely to help if it isn't just a faulty unit, but I would still go Sterling BB rather than sticking with Renogy.

But putting it in a cool spot with high ventilation would be the first thing to try IMO, the Sterlings need that too. Use the BSS Circuit Wizard to check your wire AWG, and inspect your connections at the DCDC too

use a temp probe or infrared, that they aren't actually getting hot, just the internal circuitry.

Manual switching on and off works fine, but I would think gets old.

A high-temp cutoff / delay might be kludgey but work for now.

Have you told us yet about House bank, is it LFP or Lead? How many Ah?

House bank is 4x100 Ah AGM in parallel.
Connections at DCDC are tigh and I rechecked polarity connections at DCDC and at starter batteries and at 12V bus bars : all is OK.

[Seb1]

This is quite a bummer : last week we had rain for couple days and I could not really recharge with the DCDC charger on the road nor with the shore power at camp site : I have an issue with my Sungoldpower charger/inverter : charger portion of it does not seem to work. I initiated a support conversation with Sungoldpower. Will see where it goes.

[john61ct]

Yes even lead, that big a bank will be trying to pull over 60A for most of the 8+ hour charge cycle.

Are you even driving that long per day?

Going smaller amps may help temp from rising too much but then a 10+ hours cycle