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08-04-2020, 01:14 AM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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Shore Power - Converter Question
Hello, thanks for reading my post.
I’ve ordered a 110v to 12v/24v hybrid converter for my shore power inlet.
It’s arrived in the mail but upon further inspection I’ve realized that the converter has a max input amperage of 15amps.
Is there a point in having a 50 amp inlet?
If a campground were to provide me with a 15amp power source, I would have to convert the power to 50amps (for my inlet) then back down to 15amps (for my converter) correct?
Also, there is a “bare wire output” (for lack of better terminology) to my batteries yet a 3-prong cord for the input.
My idea is to strip a 50 amp extension cord (female end) from the inlet to a 50amp>15amp adapter, then plug it in directly to the converter.
Does this make sense? If a picture or diagram is required! Please let me know.
Thanks for your time and input.
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08-04-2020, 01:24 AM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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I’ve decided to post pics anyways.
If anyone could explain the SW1 and SW2 switches, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks.
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08-04-2020, 01:47 AM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,348
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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for rv pedestals, 15, 30 and 50 amp designate the wire size and power they are able to supply to your camper. if your input is only 15a, thats all youre going to get.
15a is good for camping.... it will run a tv, coffemaker, and all your 12v loads.
if you take an air conditioner with you, then you need to add more power and will use a 30a connection to campground pedestal.
if you have 2 AC units that need to run and all of your other loads the you need the big 50a connection.
at 30 or 50 Amps, you have installed a breaker box and wired your outlets and Aircondtioners. at 15 amps, you are still running off an extension cord.
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08-04-2020, 01:53 AM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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Ok, so what is the best way to go about this?
Can I split the inlet so one way charges my batteries with the converter and the other powers the load?
Also, can shore and solar charge my batteries at the same time?
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08-04-2020, 02:27 AM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,348
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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nice converter!
well, define "load"
that converter should be wired to both your battery and your 12v loads.
the converter does not pass through 120v. it converts the 120 into 12v. so if you wanted a 120v coffee maker for your load, you are out of luck.
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08-04-2020, 02:31 AM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,348
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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the hardware you have will charge from shore.
your solar charge controller will manage that connection from the shore converter.
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08-04-2020, 02:32 AM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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Right.
My battery bank will be setup in 24v.
So can I split it so half goes to my converter and half goes straight to AC load since it’s already in 110v (from the pedestal, that is)?
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08-04-2020, 02:37 AM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,348
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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i'd use a separate extension cord.
the 12v charger will soak up all the power from that converter. best to run a different 110 load on its own cord.
if you ran a splitter you stand a good chance of melting it.
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08-04-2020, 02:39 AM
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#9
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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Does this make sense?
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08-04-2020, 02:42 AM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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Ok so more like:
What if I’m only provided with one plug?
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08-04-2020, 02:46 AM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,348
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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yes and no
for a 50a connection, your shore wire would go to a breaker box on the bus.
the breaker box would be full of 15a breakers.
1 - 15a breaker in the box, would make a circuit for the charger.
another 15a breaker would make a circuit to power your 110 load.
so basicallly your drawing, but different
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08-04-2020, 02:49 AM
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#12
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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I’m really confused. Can breakers power your load as well as draw power?
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08-04-2020, 02:53 AM
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#13
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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In this case how do I wire my batteries back to power my AC load? I need the solar panels to charge the batteries to power the 110v system. Would I just wire the solar panels straight to the breaker box?
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08-04-2020, 02:57 AM
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#14
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 145
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This doesn’t make sense correct?
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08-04-2020, 03:05 AM
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#15
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,348
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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see if that makes sense
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08-04-2020, 03:10 AM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,348
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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your picture is right, but your inverter is backwards. from the battery youll go from 24v, back to 110v
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08-04-2020, 05:56 AM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: The West
Posts: 1,210
Year: 1998
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 102 EL3
Engine: DD 60
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Morning dj2109, let's start with some basics.
15 amp and 30 amp power sources (outlets) are 120VAC and the number represents their maximum potential energy (due to limitations of the wire/cable). A 50 amp power source (outlet) is very different. It contains two legs of 120VAC (240VAC - four wires) and each leg has the potential of supplying 50 amps (100 amps total but the two are opposite phase so cannot be 'combined'). You cannot "convert" any of these amperages - they only indicate the potential energy available. That said, each has its own type of plug/socket to avoid confusion. That can be converted and it is usually accomplished with a dog bone connector ( like this one). There are many different styles - genders and connector type) and they can be combined. Most of us full-timers carry several of them to make whatever adaptation is necessary. The key when doing this is remembering what potential energy exists in your connection and managing your appliances/accessories to not exceed its capability (and throwing a breaker/fuse somewhere).
Switching power sources can be accomplished with a transfer switch (manual or automatic). This is an example of a quality 50 amp automatic transfer switch. I prefer automatic so everything 'just works' - nothing to forget and accidentally let the smoke out.
Powering 120VAC items from either shore/generator power OR inverter is accomplished with a switch (as above).
My diagram may just confuse and I apologize if so, but here it is. The point being to show one way to have a 50 amp shore power connection powering two 120VAC circuits while also having an inverter to alternatively power one of those circuits (two transfer switches). Since you are going with a 24VDC battery bank, you will also need a similar 24VDC to 12VDC step down converter to power 12VDC items.
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08-04-2020, 08:44 AM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,660
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Why don't you give us a list of your electric devices that you're powering and then we can draw up an example diagram of how things are supposed to run.
That aims unit you have in your pictures is nothing more then a charger. You'll need inverters and transfer switches to have a complete 110vac-24vdc-110vac system.
They make adapters that convert a 50 amp camper plug to a standard 3 prong outlet available here and it looks like this.
You'd then plug your inverter into that.
But if you're wanting to run 110vac loads off your 24vdc battery bank, then you'll need an inverter and a transfer switch for you to select between shore and battery power.
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08-04-2020, 08:49 AM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,660
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Oh, and those dip switches on that device are to select what type of battery bank you have: Lead acid, agm, gel, or lithium. Make sure to select them correctly or the charger won't operate correctly.
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08-04-2020, 09:04 AM
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#20
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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So there's two distinct aspects here from what I can tell that are getting conflated.
- Powering the rig from shore power
- Charging the batteries.
I think we should tackle these aspects individually, it alleviates confusion. First up is power source selection:
- 50A Pedestal -> Transfer Switch -> Breaker Panel
- Batteries -> Inverter -> Transfer Switch -> Breaker Panel
Then charging:
- 50A Pedestal -> 15A breaker -> AIMS Converter/Charger -> Batteries
When plugged into shore, you can either use the 15A current from the converter to use solar/inverter power or use the transfer switch to move over to pedestal power while the batteries charge. When you leave, switch back to solar power.
Do not direct wire the converter without some kind of breaker upstream of it, after the pedestal.
From the pedestal, you really can choose either hot to power the converter, lean towards the one with less load in your rig. If you don't know which one that is, that's fine, you can come back and change this later.
Exercise caution working with 110V and 220V AC.
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