Solar Panel Mounting Ideas - Feedback?

[sepudo]

If I were to attach my solar panel brackets to the roof rails with appropriate length screws, am I correct that I wouldn't be making a hole in the actual roof?
Is the roof skin a solid piece and the rail was then attached to it?
If so, my panels and how I plan to arrange them fit great by these rails and would solve insulation problems quickly.

Thanks all.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by sepudo

If I were to attach my solar panel brackets to the roof rails with appropriate length screws, am I correct that I wouldn't be making a hole in the actual roof?
Is the roof skin a solid piece and the rail was then attached to it?
If so, my panels and how I plan to arrange them fit great by these rails and would solve insulation problems quickly.

Thanks all. Attachment 43986

What is that? Looks like a conduit.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by Chef Santa

Because of my disability and I can't get on the roof to keep them clean I am mounting mine on the driver side of the bus on a hing so I can lift them out and put a pole underneath them I will be able to do the different angles for the sun. Any ideas on on how to hang it please let me know. Thanks

I’d get 1/8”x2” steel continuous hinge. Bolt into the hat channel. You’ll need some way to latch them to the side. You’ll probably want a sheet metal backing to add strength to the frame.

I’ve seen someone on this site who has hung them on the side. Look around maybe it will turn up.

[BlackJohn]

Do you have a shot of the brackets you want to use on these rails?


If they wrap around the rail you might get a couple of screws in each area.
You shouldn't break the roof skin at all it seems to me.



I don't think that is a conduit but could be used as a raceway though from front to back for marker lights. Hard to tell without seeing each end whether open or closed up. I'd break through the rail gently with a pilot bit then enlarge the hole for the screw size you would be using.


John

[sepudo]

Originally Posted by Danjo

What is that? Looks like a conduit.

They're structure rails like the ones that run along the sides of the bus. I figured all Thomas buses have them.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

i use unistrut and accessories daily for my work and i definitely recommend a 2 inch washer and a jam nut but if you are using the spring nuts with the angle brackets then you would just need a washer to fit your bolt and cover the hole in the bracket.
hilti also makes a locknut system that will hold a lot of weight but you have to buy there expensive brand l brackets.
they are cool and save a load of time and less money in nuts,bolts,washers?
but have never really done a price comparison.
but for ideas of all the parts and pieces made in support of unistrut you can look up HILTI unistrut systems.
other brands like erico and others i cant think of right now are aloot cheaper.
also called
super strut
g-strut
kendorf strut
and once again i caint think of the several others.
you can get it galvanized,i think erico is more of a gold yellow coating
and i have even seen it with a green epoxy coating.
but hilti systems have some pretty cool accessories as far as brackets,bracket attachment lock nuts that are actually stronger than spring nuts and you dont need an extra bolt and washer but you do need there angle clip.

[sepudo]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Do you have a shot of the brackets you want to use on these rails?


If they wrap around the rail you might get a couple of screws in each area.
You shouldn't break the roof skin at all it seems to me.



I don't think that is a conduit but could be used as a raceway though from front to back for marker lights. Hard to tell without seeing each end whether open or closed up. I'd break through the rail gently with a pilot bit then enlarge the hole for the screw size you would be using.


John

I added a photo. I can tell the rail ends at a flat end at the front and back of the rig.
I planned on using a basic l bracket on that area.

Now I'm wondering if I could install some rivnuts on the rail and essentially use it as my unistrut to support the panels. I'm confident it's strong enough to support the panels.

Thoughts on using rivnuts on these roof rails?

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by sepudo

I added a photo. I can tell the rail ends at a flat end at the front and back of the rig.
I planned on using a basic l bracket on that area.

Now I'm wondering if I could install some rivnuts on the rail and essentially use it as my unistrut to support the panels. I'm confident it's strong enough to support the panels.

Thoughts on using rivnuts on these roof rails?

Closed ends so not likely any wiring in them. Pics talk, thanks for that.



When you say l brackets, I would think of a 90* bend. Is that right?
You might have to put a flat spacer under each bracket to help the l bracket sit more square to the roof. Then a rivnut might work.

I'm more of a drill and tap guy so I'd go either with a 3/8 bolt or 1/2x1-1/2" thru the strut, the bracket and or spacer with a flat and lockwasher under the bolt head.
I trust tapping over a rivnut and cheaper too.


John

[sepudo]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Closed ends so not likely any wiring in them. Pics talk, thanks for that.



When you say l brackets, I would think of a 90* bend. Is that right?
You might have to put a flat spacer under each bracket to help the l bracket sit more square to the roof. Then a rivnut might work.

I'm more of a drill and tap guy so I'd go either with a 3/8 bolt or 1/2x1-1/2" thru the strut, the bracket and or spacer with a flat and lockwasher under the bolt head.
I trust tapping over a rivnut and cheaper too.


John

I'm curious about tapping... Like you said, pictures talk... Got a sample or Google link sample? Thanks for the input by the way

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by sepudo

I'm curious about tapping... Like you said, pictures talk... Got a sample or Google link sample? Thanks for the input by the way

No pics handy but all you need is a drill, correct bit size and a set of taps which are handy to have around.
Somewhere I have a chart for correct bit size for many taps, but will have to look for it.



John

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

No pics handy but all you need is a drill, correct bit size and a set of taps which are handy to have around.
Somewhere I have a chart for correct bit size for many taps, but will have to look for it.



John

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...rill-Size.aspx

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...rill-Size.aspx

That's the one, ty mg.


John

[sepudo]

I found this... I never knew a tool like this existed!
So John, you're saying you'd trust a tap and proper bolt instead of a rivnut?

Keep in mind, my plan is to attach unistrut to my top rails that run front to back that I showed in the above photo. 2 unistruts on the 2 rails, probably about 20ish feet long.

I originally thought about putting several rivnuts along the length of the rail probably every 18 inches or so?

If I use the tap method, what distance would you recommend?

Am I missing anything?

[sepudo]

Tap set

[musigenesis]

Your roof is 20 ga sheet metal; those roof rails might be formed out of slightly thicker sheet (maybe 16 ga, not sure about Thomases), but in general tapping isn't/can't be done with sheet.

Self-tapping screws or rivnuts would be the way to go.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Your roof is 20 ga sheet metal; those roof rails might be formed out of slightly thicker sheet (maybe 16 ga, not sure about Thomases), but in general tapping isn't/can't be done with sheet.

Self-tapping screws or rivnuts would be the way to go.

Not sure what guage the rails are but look tapable to me, using a bottoming tap. I wouldn't say it's impossible but worth a try. Self tappers will loosen up over time in this type application and require tightening periodically. Those rails look about 1" in diameter roughly, maybe you could use something to beef them up a bit for thickness. Yet when the hole is tapped and the bolt can be tightened right down to the underlying metal, you should be fine. Loctite the threads of the bolt to be sure it stays put.

If my driving was all freeway I'd never go self tappers, rivnuts possibly if done right.


Sepudo, there are better deals on tap sets out there I do believe that may or may not come with a tap handle.
I have never used a drill mounted tap nor would I.

With a tap handle, , lube the tap, you start the tap then back it out to clean the cuttings and then tap some more till you get a nice thread right through the metal. Actually I have never seen anyone use a tap in a drill ever. Some things you do manually to get a good fit.



For distance I would just space them out over the 20 ft. maybe a foot from the end of each rail, then split the difference in between, so about 4 bolts per 10ft length.


John

[sepudo]

The rails are definitely thicker than the roof. I was up there cleaning and sealing all seams yesterday.
I understand why tapping would be cleaner without a drill, thanks John.
I may combine efforts and tap every few feet, rivnut a few in between the even lay down some 3m VHB tape between rail and unistrut.

Thanks for the imput all!

[Drew Bru]

We used Blindbolts to fasten the brackets to the roof. DI didn't trust self tappers to not wiggle loose with the vibration. Just another option in case you hadn't considered it.
https://www.blindbolt.com/thin-wall-...hin-wall-bolt/

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by sepudo

They're structure rails like the ones that run along the sides of the bus. I figured all Thomas buses have them. Attachment 43988

Here’s a picture of those rails. You’re right, they are structural.

It looks like the roof sheet abuts this and then it’s capped with trim. I don’t think that’s going to hold a thread. It looks like that if you drill it, then you’d have a hole to the inside?

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by sepudo

The rails are definitely thicker than the roof. I was up there cleaning and sealing all seams yesterday.
I understand why tapping would be cleaner without a drill, thanks John.
I may combine efforts and tap every few feet, rivnut a few in between the even lay down some 3m VHB tape between rail and unistrut.

Thanks for the imput all!

Looks like some experimentation is in order, a combo sounds good to me.
You can always add some thickness to the outer rail if it's too thin. You could cut some thick walled pipe in half, lay it over the rails, weld, tape or bolt that too the rib and then tap thru everything.
Not sure a bolt would hurt going inside if it is on the centre of the ribbing.


Best of luck,


John