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Old 07-05-2020, 11:52 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
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Year: 1999
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Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT466
Starting issues

Hi all, My girlfriend and I have a 1999 International 3800. Its got a DT466. We recently purchased it and we went to drive it from the storage lot to our place to work on it. It will not start. I put the key in and turn it... nothing no gauge lights beeping or anything. The batteries are good and connected. I found a blown fuse and replaced it and now when i hook up the batteries it makes a loud buzzing noise at the top of the fuse box and still will not start. If i remove the new fuse and put the blown one back in nothing happens once again but it will not buzz. I am lost at what to do. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:03 PM   #2
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The buzzing is a warning that a door or window is not properly latched shut. Or perhaps the one of the switches for such is shorted. Many buses have an interlock that will not let you start the bus when one of the latches is open.


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Old 07-05-2020, 03:10 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Oh okay! Thanks ill check it out. Yeah I realize now the endless possibility of wires, relays, switches that can go bad. The fuse box is an outrageous mess of wires and connections that make it hard to see whats going on.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:20 PM   #4
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To be more specific, the emergency doors, emergency windows that swing out, the emergency hatch on the roof all will sound the alarm.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:24 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Okay thanks. How would I know if the food hatches are closed all the way. They look sealed but not sure. The buzzing noise is from the fuse box area. It seems weird that an open emergency exit would make a buzzing there.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:25 PM   #6
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And to be even more specific, some buses were equipped with a "sleeping child" alarm. Seems some kid fell asleep in the rear seat, and was left in the bus overnight. So some crazy system was installed that makes you open and close the back door or turn a key near the back door, so you (the driver) have to walk through the entire bus. I think that happens when you turn the bus off, though; however, if you blew a fuse, that may have triggered the system to "on", or it was left in the "on" position when you shut the bus off because the fuse blew at that moment.


Just guessing.....
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TGase33 View Post
Okay thanks. How would I know if the food hatches are closed all the way. They look sealed but not sure. The buzzing noise is from the fuse box area. It seems weird that an open emergency exit would make a buzzing there.
I've got a BlueBird, but there is a buzzer alarm at the back door for the back door only. There is also a buzzer next to the driver (by the fuse panel) that buzzes for all the latches, including the back door.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:37 PM   #8
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If you can record a video (with audio) on your phone you can upload it to Youtube and post a link to it here. We might be able to tell what the buzzer is.
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Old 07-05-2020, 04:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TGase33 View Post
Hi all, My girlfriend and I have a 1999 International 3800. Its got a DT466. We recently purchased it and we went to drive it from the storage lot to our place to work on it. It will not start. I put the key in and turn it... nothing no gauge lights beeping or anything. The batteries are good and connected. I found a blown fuse and replaced it and now when i hook up the batteries it makes a loud buzzing noise at the top of the fuse box and still will not start. If i remove the new fuse and put the blown one back in nothing happens once again but it will not buzz. I am lost at what to do. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
I have two fuze panels, one on the dash to the drivers right and one at the drivers elbow. Which panel is the buzzer at and which fuse did you replace? The only buzzer warning that might prevent a start would probably be a rear door sliding lock. It needs to be unlocked to start. The other buzzers would annoy you to fix something like a low air warning or open hatches.
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Old 07-05-2020, 04:43 PM   #10
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....And when you say "not start" do you mean it cranks (as in engine spinning)and no start or it won't even crank?
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Old 07-05-2020, 07:22 PM   #11
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Hi all, so the bus does not start at all no cracking no buzzing no clicking no lights at all. The batteries read about 12.5v and are in good condition. I cleaned the terminals and its free of any corrosion. Ill have to take a video tomorrow but i have a picture of what is making the buzzing sound. My fuse panel is on the drivers side above the battery compartment. i replaced a 15 amp fuse that was blown. Now when i connect the batteries the buzzing starts right away. But still no start no cracking. As you can see in the picture the fuse i replaced was the 15 amp fuse right below this gold box thing( not sure of the name/ what it does) but this is the cause of the buzzing sound. The wire that is attached on the right side alone is also one of the two wires leading back to the fuse i replaced.
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Old 07-05-2020, 08:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TGase33 View Post
Hi all, so the bus does not start at all no cracking no buzzing no clicking no lights at all.
No headlights even when you turn on the headlight switch? We need to know if the headlights are supposed to come on with the key in the "off" position. Can anyone with a similar bus chime in?





Quote:
Originally Posted by TGase33 View Post
i replaced a 15 amp fuse that was blown. Now when i connect the batteries the buzzing starts right away. But still no start no cracking.
And the key is in the "off" position? That's confusing....maybe a short.


Or maybe the key switch is faulty. If the headlights are not supposed to come on unless the key is "on", then I would look there first.


If the headlights are supposed to come on when switched on even with the key "off", then check the main fuse - someone else had a similar problem with their International, and so did I with my BlueBird. We both have a small greyish box mounted to the bus frame rail with a cover held on by 4 small screws. Mine is just behind the drivers side front tire. I think his was in a similar place. Heavy cables go in one side, out the other. Make sure there is no corrosion problems inside on the fuses or their holders, etc.


There's my guesses so far....
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Old 07-05-2020, 08:41 PM   #13
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My bad. I jumped out there and incorrectly assumed that this is a Thomas Built bus. My understanding is that there are more than one body manufacturers of the 3800 International. Could you clarify that for me?

I also am assuming that since you replaced that fuse you may now be getting instrument light on the dash but not cranking, is that right or wrong? It would help to know if you have a terminal guide showing what the fuse was for.
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Old 07-05-2020, 08:45 PM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Thanks i appreciate it. I am going to work on it tomorrow and see what i come up with. Not sure if the headlights are supposed to be on or not. i will try that tomorrow though! My original though was a faulty ignition switch but i cant even find a replacement one anywhere. the ignition switch is a Pollak 192-3. I will try and take that off and see if it has continuity and use my test light to check it out. But that still wouldnt answer my buzzing noise though. Is that little gold box part of the anti theft system? Or any ideas on what it does?
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Old 07-05-2020, 08:48 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Engine: DT466
I am still not getting any dash lights or gauges to work. No cranking or anything. Maybe it is a master fuse? The one in the battery compartment is still good though. But like the other guy said maybe there is a master fuse box behind the tire!
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Old 07-05-2020, 08:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome View Post
...Can anyone with a similar bus chime in?
....
Not sure which one he has.
Edit-Found his pic. It looks to be an Amtran.
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Old 07-05-2020, 09:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TGase33 View Post
Hi all, so the bus does not start at all no cracking no buzzing no clicking no lights at all. The batteries read about 12.5v and are in good condition. I cleaned the terminals and its free of any corrosion. Ill have to take a video tomorrow but i have a picture of what is making the buzzing sound. My fuse panel is on the drivers side above the battery compartment. i replaced a 15 amp fuse that was blown. Now when i connect the batteries the buzzing starts right away. But still no start no cracking. As you can see in the picture the fuse i replaced was the 15 amp fuse right below this gold box thing( not sure of the name/ what it does) but this is the cause of the buzzing sound. The wire that is attached on the right side alone is also one of the two wires leading back to the fuse i replaced.
Mine's a '97 3800......your pic looks just like my emergency window/hatch buzzer. I just cut and capped the two wires, and no more buzz.

HOWEVER!!...my interlocks were already disabled by the (I assume) school, so my engine would still start, even with the buzzing. As you can see, you've got more wires running to your left post than I did. I don't know, but maybe those are your issue.

That's all the help I can give......too many horror stories of people cutting wires and buses not starting for me to suggest anything further.
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Old 07-06-2020, 12:05 PM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Engine: DT466
Hi again... got the video posted on youtube... heres the link. https://youtu.be/iMUFdiN1RSg

Still no starting or anything. I bought this about two weeks ago and it started up perfect no problems each time when i test drove it. I have done no work since then and went to start it and it wouldnt start. Not sure whats going on. Im now thinking a possible issue with the ignition switch. If anyone could have further input id appreciate it. I have no idea what to do. Thanks everyone so far for all the help. Could anyone second that the small gold box is indeed to do with the emergency exits and could i just disconnect it all?
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Old 07-06-2020, 12:06 PM   #19
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Engine: DT466
Sorry it is ineed an AmTran!
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Old 07-06-2020, 12:17 PM   #20
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You need a multimeter and a _lot_ of patience.


Can you test the ignition switch using a multimeter? See if the wires leading into the switch have reasonable voltage (~12V from input to chassis), and when turning the switch, if what downstream of the switch is getting voltage (~12V from output to chassis). Follow the wire from what you know is working correctly to its next destination, testing along the way.

Be methodical... You know what loop is wrong: The ignition loop. Start from a known point on the ignition loop and find where something changes (there was voltage before a point but none after, or vice versa). Its a pain in the behind but the only surefire way to pinpoint what is wrong.


I'm leaning towards a door/veto switch somewhere as well.


Feel free to PM me if you'd like to ask any specific questions.
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