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04-05-2020, 09:54 AM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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trouble finding 4 wire 50 amp inlet?
I don't think I need 50 amp service, but why not? I thought the 50 amp was all 4 wire, split pole 100 amps total. All the plugs and the dogbones that I see online show the 4 wire connections.
But every inlet I find on ebay and amazon shows a three wire connection, or doesn't have a clear picture. And they are listed as RV/Marine.
Am I searching wrong? Or is something just going over my head?
I'm going straight to a breaker box with two 50 amp breakers, red to one pole and black to the other. So I have to have the four wires go somewhere.
Here is a link as an example,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-amp-RV-P...g/223778095745
I even went to Camping World website to see what theirs looked like for twice the price. But they have horrible pictures and descriptions. I could drive out to their store but that seems like a non essential trip right now.
Another question: If I am hard wiring this inlet to a 50 amp breaker, maybe 6 ft away, cant I just use a dryer cord? Unless I am missing something else it's 4 wire 6AWG capable of running the 50 amps. And a lot cheaper than buying 15 or 25 ft of RV connection cord and wasting most of it.
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04-05-2020, 10:57 AM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: central texas
Posts: 170
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas/International
Chassis: 3700
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 72
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[B]Kohree RV 125/250V 50 AMP Power Plug Twist Lock Inlet with 3 Stainless Steel Pins and Screws , White
above link at amazon,
This is what a 50amp receptacle looks like, the 4th wire connection is a metal plate in the inner wall of the receptacle.
I also installed a 50 amp receptacle and then got a 50amp to 20 amp cord extension to get power from my house
__________________
my bus thread, https://www.skoolie.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8860&highlight=bubb
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04-05-2020, 11:32 AM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubb, the real one
[B]Kohree RV 125/250V 50 AMP Power Plug Twist Lock Inlet with 3 Stainless Steel Pins and Screws , White
above link at amazon,
This is what a 50amp receptacle looks like, the 4th wire connection is a metal plate in the inner wall of the receptacle.
I also installed a 50 amp receptacle and then got a 50amp to 20 amp cord extension to get power from my house
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Thank you. Looks exactly like the one in my link. But yours says 4 wire mine says 3. So I think I'll follow your lead. I have a feeling because the ones I'm looking at are Chinese something's getting lost in translation.
The plug from the RV to a campground 50 amp service must be different at each and then. I guess since those are four prong I thought the inlet would be four prong also
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04-05-2020, 12:01 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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The feeling I got looking at various campground inlets was yes, it was split phase, and yes, I'd probably need a variety of plug types/adapters.
I currently have a 30A generator inlet for convenience but I'm going to change it over to a reliance controls 50A connector, either:
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Cont.../dp/B004HSO1JW
Or:
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Cont.../dp/B000HRWGBW
Then have generator/campground/ etc pigtails for each. I use both legs on my load center, so I don't think I'll be able to support household 110V in with any level of practicality. I sized my solar to not ever really need it.
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04-05-2020, 12:21 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Do not buy this sort of gear based on price.
And certainly not generic Chinese.
Reputable brands / vendors with good customer support only, even if it costs 5x the price.
A good local fire marshall can be a great resource , informal advice and inspection.
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04-05-2020, 01:56 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 122
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: Phantom 40'
Engine: DDECII 6V92T Allison MT647
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs of potential
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
Do not buy this sort of gear based on price.
And certainly not generic Chinese.
Reputable brands / vendors with good customer support only, even if it costs 5x the price.
A good local fire marshall can be a great resource , informal advice and inspection.
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+1 John62ct
Absolutely do not cheap out on electrical components. Lives may (do) depend on it.
The Reliance products are ok; think Chevy but not Cadillac. I have installed many on homes with no issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai
The feeling I got looking at various campground inlets was yes, it was split phase, and yes, I'd probably need a variety of plug types/adapters.
I currently have a 30A generator inlet for convenience but I'm going to change it over to a reliance controls 50A connector, either:
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Cont.../dp/B004HSO1JW
Or:
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Cont.../dp/B000HRWGBW
Then have generator/campground/ etc pigtails for each. I use both legs on my load center, so I don't think I'll be able to support household 110V in with any level of practicality. I sized my solar to not ever really need it.
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Kazetsukai, The item in your top link is all PVC and easy to install, bonus that the cord enters from the bottom, resulting in a more weather resistant install. Whit the large enclosure, it might work best inside a utility bay.
The second link is to a unit with a steel enclosure. The finish on them fails quickly when exposed to the weather.
Rich
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04-05-2020, 02:45 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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Guilty- I have the generic Chinese for the 30A input and it is indeed junk.
I'm not going to have a bay for the replacement- they need to be mounted to the bus wall. Kind of annoying but so be it. Thanks Phantom for the input/feedback, I was leaning towards the steel option at first, I'll do PVC.
Johns' comment on the fire marshall reminds me I should look at all of this wiring through the thermal imager for hot spots.
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04-05-2020, 05:28 PM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
Do not buy this sort of gear based on price.
And certainly not generic Chinese.
Reputable brands / vendors with good customer support only, even if it costs 5x the price.
A good local fire marshall can be a great resource , informal advice and inspection.
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I wasn't looking for cheap or Chinese. I was looking for 50 amp RV inlet. That's what was showing up.
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04-05-2020, 05:53 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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The quality marine brands and trusted distribution channels there are good sources.
Everyone complains about that attribute inflating prices but sometimes the higher quality justifies them.
Fisheries Supply in Seattle, Defender, Pkys Bay-Marine are great. Maine Sail @Compass Marine can price competitively, always great recommendations.
West Marine can take the piss, but they run B&M shops and I believe do match online pricing there.
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04-05-2020, 07:53 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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To be technically correct make sure you get a 50 amp cable with the red, black and white wires all 6 awg. In cabling for range service the white/neutral will be sized at 8 awg. Technically, that would need to be fused as a 40 amp circuit, unless feeding a range.
Of course, I have fallen down that rabbit hole of the electrical -- once again!
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04-07-2020, 06:47 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
The quality marine brands and trusted distribution channels there are good sources.
Everyone complains about that attribute inflating prices but sometimes the higher quality justifies them.
Fisheries Supply in Seattle, Defender, Pkys Bay-Marine are great. Maine Sail @Compass Marine can price competitively, always great recommendations.
West Marine can take the piss, but they run B&M shops and I believe do match online pricing there.
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Thanks for the suggestions! I keep forgetting we have a West Marine here, at least to physically see some product. After the lockdown is over!
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04-07-2020, 06:48 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bus-bro
To be technically correct make sure you get a 50 amp cable with the red, black and white wires all 6 awg. In cabling for range service the white/neutral will be sized at 8 awg. Technically, that would need to be fused as a 40 amp circuit, unless feeding a range.
Of course, I have fallen down that rabbit hole of the electrical -- once again!
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I didn't realize that about the ground. Thank you. And I am glad I asked.
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04-07-2020, 07:29 PM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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That's the neutral that steps down to 8 awg from 6 awg that the other two 50 amp conductors are sized at. The ground might be 8 awg in both a service entrance cable and a range supply.
If you ran 50 amps on one leg (something you probably wouldn't ever do) the neutral wire would be carrying more current than it's rated for (40 amps).
I told you I was jumping down the electrical rabbit hole.
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04-07-2020, 07:48 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bus-bro
That's the neutral that steps down to 8 awg from 6 awg that the other two 50 amp conductors are sized at. The ground might be 8 awg in both a service entrance cable and a range supply.
If you ran 50 amps on one leg (something you probably wouldn't ever do) the neutral wire would be carrying more current than it's rated for (40 amps).
I told you I was jumping down the electrical rabbit hole.
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I've spent the week dealing with the DC wiring in my bus, adding switches and chargers, so my brain went straight to ground rather than neutral. But I knew what you meant.
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