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Old 01-10-2020, 07:22 AM   #21
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 819
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 32 Passenger
Talking

I agree. I don’t believe there is any shortage of Characters on here !!

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Old 01-11-2020, 06:23 PM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Harstine Island
Posts: 13
Year: 2002
Engine: 5.9 cummings
Rated Cap: 73
So I'm going over my plans for power and I'm thinking about how I'm going to be able to charge them without solar/electricity on the ready. I'm not sure I want to spend a lot of money on batteries if i can't properly maintain.


I have a group 24 battery box and was thinking that one deep cycle would be the best option to start out with.With just the one I can take it back to my apartment and charge it up between visits. And when I'm done with it I can put it in my camper that needs a replacement.

The local interstate battery store sells three different versions. New for $120 with a 5-6 yr warranty. "shop" battery for $60 that has a 1yr warranty, and a refurbished for 43 but only a 3 month warranty. They all have a $20 core charge.

not sure what 'shop' battery was, just that's what he refereed to it as. I didn't get a chance to go in before they clsoed but was wondering what route everyone would go for warranty reasons? Assuming all batteries are rated about the same. I've never seen a 5-6 yr warranty on a deep cycle, normally just 1 yr or so.
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:15 PM   #23
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 55
In the meantime, I take one of those power paks when I go camping. The kind that can jump start a car and also has plug receptacles. Can power a 100 bulb string of Christmas lights the whole weekend. Take it home and recharge it.
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Old 01-15-2020, 06:10 PM   #24
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 523
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird, Collins
Chassis: G30 Bluebird Microbird, E350 Shuttle Bus
Engine: 1995 Chevrolet 350, 1992 Ford 460
This is a DIY portable power pack video. It’s a neat design. Only thing I’d do differently is use larger 10 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse block.

https://youtu.be/torSEtjPZ2I
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Old 01-15-2020, 09:54 PM   #25
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 4
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Rated Cap: 72
Try AGM from Cosco, 200$ each. 5 year warranty. You can put 1-4 batteries into a parallel connection. Get a battery isolator big enough for what your alternator puts out. Don’t drop the battery capacity by more than 50% when you can. AGMs don’t off gas hydrogen into atmosphere, so they are safer for “inside”. Still vent your battery bank
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Old 01-16-2020, 12:28 AM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: SFBA, CA
Posts: 63
Year: Any!
Coachwork: Self!
Chassis: Crown or Gillig!
Engine: Cummins 855, 400 HP or more!
Rated Cap: 36,000 GVRW
Get a second battery of the RV, Deep Cycle, Type! Wire both your batteries to the isolator and stop worrying. But a Volt Gauge on the RV Battery with a momentary push button, when you wnat to know the remaining power, just push the button. If you REALLY want to protect the Bus Start Battery. When you are parked, use a 600 AMP shut-off or 'Kill' switch to completely separate the battery when not in use. 'No worries!' In case you don't know, wire the alternator output to the center isolator connection and the two batteries to one, each, of the other two connections.
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Old 01-16-2020, 02:50 AM   #27
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
The Sam's and B+ Duracell GCs from Deka are actually much better.

Costco's are JCI made via Interstate, not as robust.
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