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Old 04-21-2019, 04:24 PM   #21
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welding wire is not tinned. over time if exposed will wick water like a sponge and then corrode like crazy

NP if only keeping the bus for a couple years maybe. . .

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Old 04-21-2019, 04:39 PM   #22
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welding wire is not tinned. over time if exposed will wick water like a sponge and then corrode like crazy

NP if only keeping the bus for a couple years maybe. . .

I have never worked with welding cable in this application. I have worked with large, un-tinned copper cable. I use a waterproof heatshrink on the connections and have never had any issue.

I talked to the gent who now owns my first bus. After 20+ years the house battery cables are still doing their job.

I am no wire guru. Just sharing what I have observed.
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Old 04-22-2019, 10:09 AM   #23
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I got mine on eBay. Aims (3000 watt/9000 surge) called for 4/0 from battery to inverter. Don't want to void the warranty, so I used 4/0. Have 4/0 for all my battery connections as well. Used a 300 amp and fuse between inverter and batteries (as Aims calls for that as well).
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Old 04-22-2019, 10:18 AM   #24
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2/0 is big enough for most, but as the wattage goes up in a 12v system the need for large wires skyrockets, especially if the run is not quite short.
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Old 04-22-2019, 10:23 AM   #25
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2/0 is big enough for most, but as the wattage goes up in a 12v system the need for large wires skyrockets, especially if the run is not quite short.
That's why some of us find it advantageous to move to a 24 volt or 48 volt systems.
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:11 PM   #26
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cheap cables

I used the 0 gauge for my inverter. I found if you go to a stereo store and buy the amp install kit made it cheaper then buying it by the foot. I got 17 feet for 45 dollars at my local stereo store. One thing I learned with the big lugs you have to punch them in the center to keep the wire from ever coming out. I soldiered the wire then installed it into the o gauge lug and took a dent hammer (pick side) for fixing car dents and beat the heck out of it making a perfect pierce through the lug. I used electrical lugs not the ones that came with the amp kit that just crimps on two sides.
A crimp tool for these big lugs is crazy expensive. Vise and a hammer pick worked great.
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Old 04-27-2019, 05:18 PM   #27
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Cable

Try your local welding supply. They should sell it or 2/0 by the foot.
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Old 04-27-2019, 06:10 PM   #28
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Vise and a hammer pick worked great.
Completely disagree.

Way too hit or miss.

Reliable repeatability of gas-tight milspec terminations without having to pull-test is critical for cables especially exposed to weather or buried out of site.

Spots of increased resistance even ten years down the road can easily start fires with high-current.

No place to be penny wise, easy enough to get good crimps done without owning the tools yourself.
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Old 04-27-2019, 09:18 PM   #29
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Waytek wire is a great source for cable, they also sell battery terminals.
Check with your local Napa store, or a Truck Pro if you have one close. I purchased 4/0 for my shop for around $5.50 per foot from Truck Pro, buying 50 ft at a time.
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:04 AM   #30
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Completely disagree.

Way too hit or miss.

Reliable repeatability of gas-tight milspec terminations without having to pull-test is critical for cables especially exposed to weather or buried out of site.

Spots of increased resistance even ten years down the road can easily start fires with high-current.

No place to be penny wise, easy enough to get good crimps done without owning the tools yourself.
I agree.

The last bus electrical I did for a gent that had a big battery bank and solar. The battery cables called for connections that exceeded the capacity of my crimping tools.

So we went to a custom stereo shop and had them crimp them for us. Cost a few dollars but they are very well done and I have confidence that they won't burn the bus down.
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:07 AM   #31
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I’ve seen a couple inverter setups catch fire. Not my own. Too small of wire. One was a solid wire, the other was multi strand but too small a gage. Power creates heat don’t skimp. Measure twice add a little and cut once. Soldier the connections and shrink wrap.
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:49 AM   #32
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Solder can be fine in the hands of an expert.

But with the right crimp gear, a monkey could be trained to do it and get top results, repeatable every time.

Adding solder to a good crimp can only make it worse not better.
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:17 PM   #33
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My experience with running two homes 3 fridges and 6 freezers off grid for a decade- The cables that I bought that were crimped- lasted 4 yrs- corrosion caused issues hardly visible to the novice- the soldered connections (not crimped and soldered) are still going strong. Heat is the enemy- heatmeans loss of energy. And can mess up current flows etc....
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:29 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtdoctor View Post
My experience with running two homes 3 fridges and 6 freezers off grid for a decade- The cables that I bought that were crimped- lasted 4 yrs- corrosion caused issues hardly visible to the novice- the soldered connections (not crimped and soldered) are still going strong. Heat is the enemy- heatmeans loss of energy. And can mess up current flows etc....
back in the days of tubes, resistors, and condensers, I was a radio tech in the Canadian airforce - trained us to always 'tin' wires before they were twisted together, then solder them - the 'tinning' allowed the solder to flow done into the wires to prevent corrosion - twisting made a sound connection, wire to wire, then soldering them together sealed the deal - - wire connections done like that lasted the life of the aircraft - the sub hunters I worked on were long ago retired, then went on to another career as water bombers, and have since retired from that life too - hopefully the wires I soldered almost 60 years ago are still making good connections - lol
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Old 04-28-2019, 08:12 PM   #35
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I'm checking my local welding supply (Gas and Supply, Cumming, Ga) for pricing on cable and figured I'd look at crimping tools. The have no "crimpers" on their site other than this hammer swedge. Are you guys saying this is not a proper method to use? I'm used to crimping and soldering the lugs so they are one. I've always thought soldered connections at the battery could melt under some loads.


https://www.gasandsupply.com/i/LENCO...4040-_LEN04040
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:13 AM   #36
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Yes. For quality go to marine supply places.

They will lend you the very expensive crimpers, can be hundreds of dollars just for each die.

Do not solder unless you're an expert.

Of course bad crimping is possible, but getting that consistently right is pretty foolproof with quality supplies and matching quality tools.

All wiring should be fully tinned, as UL1426 "boat cable"*spec already guarantees.

Of course not everyone cares enough to bother with this level, and good enough can last for some years.
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Old 04-29-2019, 06:08 AM   #37
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some good info here:
https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
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Old 04-29-2019, 06:48 AM   #38
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That's CMS / Maine Sail, absolute guru status on all the leading boat forums, practically infallible knowledge.

Everything on that site wrt electrickery is worth close and repeated study.
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:40 PM   #39
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Try this for complete cables.
https://www.batterycablesusa/
Buy online. The website calculates your price based on wire and lug type/hole size.
They make em up and ship to you via usps $4.00 ish rate. I replaced some 2/0 x5’ alternator cables and they are great. IMHO
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Old 04-29-2019, 05:30 PM   #40
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For welding leed connection if it's not a factory end(crimp) then you get lug body connections and heat shrink for the fish eye ends.
My opinion of dealing with them for many years and have access to many types of piping?
For the lug body weld lead connection I lose the thin copper film wrap they give you and find a piece of soft copper tubing that fits the size of wire I have and buy one size bigger lug body connector and torque the lug down into that.
Even the factory/supplier crimp connectors will eventually pull out on such a fine wire as a weld leed?
Once I started using A copper pipe/tubing sleeve and one size bigger lug body connector with heat shrink(depending on the connection ) I have not had any leed/ wire pull apart buy the abuse they go through daily and I haven't had any connections corrode under the heat shrink or the lug body quick connects with plastic unsealed sleaves that all live outside either in the dirt and mud and or direct rain water daily?
Yes you can weld in the mud and water? Really nice to have someone dry to stick your weld rod in your holder or just don't need any coffee or energy drinks for the day
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