Another plumbing diagram

[Jeff2010]

Plumbing newbie…I’d appreciate any comments/suggestions!!

[Albatross]

I would avoid using Tees as much as possible, and would instead run separate lines to as much as possible. The lines aren't that big, aren't that long on an RV, and you're likely to appreciate the added pressure when you're not hooked up to a pressurized source like city water.

Yeah, it's a little bit more of a PITA when building out, but would you rather suffer once, or deal with suffering the loss of pressure while taking a shower because someone washed their hands in the kitchen sink for as long as you own the bus?

[Jeff2010]

TY…makes sense…what to use in place of multiple “T”s out of … say the water heater which has one source out?

[Rucker]

Looks like a great start.

-Tees are an issue with pressure drop if you have more than one device active at a time.
-There are 'combo units' for city water and gravity fill. They are crappy quality and degrade quickly in the sun, but handy.
-Consider an additional gravity inlet on the inside, one you can fill from pressurized city water.
-If you put shutoffs in the right locations you can use your onboard pump to recirculate the water in the tanks for flushing or treating.
-Sediment filters yes, and one is usually incorporated or comes with the 12v pump. Make it accessible for periodic maintenance.
-Put your 12v pump on an isolated surface, not the plywood wall where it will act as a speaker. Mine is on a separate panel which is in turn bungee-mounted to the cabinet.
-My water purification is only on a single (separate) faucet in the kitchen. No need to purify any other water, realistically.
-Consider Pex in place of Sharkbite.
-What type of water heater? If instant, they don't work well with mixer valves because they require pressure and flow. With instant heaters you need to regulate the shower hot water from the heater itself. Search this forum to see more details on instant water heater challenges. Pro tip: mock up the whole hot water system first and run it through paces to learn how yours operates under various pressure and flow conditions (or doesn't).
-Slope all drain lines more than the standard quarter inch to the foot, especially lines that run transverse (side to side).

[Albatross]

Originally Posted by Jeff2010

TY…makes sense…what to use in place of multiple “T”s out of … say the water heater which has one source out?

If you do the splits closer to the tank/heater, you'll experience less pressure drop. Run out of your heater and drop down over the side into a manifold, so that you'll have outs for all the lines you'll need. Sure, it'll use a bit more water, but with a recirc line, you can dump right back into the tank if you like.

[Rucker]

Forgot to mention that adding a second accumulator helps even out pump cycling. Don't get the smallest pump, get the bigger one.

[ism minerals]

I added a tee, valve and a return line to my holding fresh water tank after the filters. I teed the pipe coming into the filters housing and put a valve on the city water supply. This will allow me to run a filtration loop carbon/sediment/ UV (not yet installed) on the tank using the pump and allow the city hookup to be filter. I can also fill the tank from the city supply.