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Old 04-12-2020, 11:31 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Fresh Water Tank Question / Concerns

It has been a while since I posted anything, but as of this day, this second, there is a good chance unless all goes sideways that I am going to be getting a bus tomorrow. With that in mind, it sort of got real real quick. You can imagine I have been going through and getting updated prices on various pieces and parts that I am going to need for the build. I started with the water tanks. Now, like everyone, I am about saving money, but there comes a point that you sacrifice quality / piece of mind / safety for price. I am looking at putting 200 gallons of fresh water in the bus. This means I am going to be connecting 2 - 100 gallon tanks together. Most water tanks I see priced between $300-600 for one 100 gallon tank, until I came across this one

My question is has anybody used or purchased this tank before? And what is the quality?
My second question, it appears that this tank only has 1 inlet. Recommendations for connecting two of these tanks together? Along with installing a water fill / water level meter?
or
Would you recommend that I go with a tank that has multiple threaded inlets installed for the $500-600?

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Old 04-12-2020, 04:49 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
That's the exact tank we got, from the same place. We picked it up in person to save any shipping costs. It's got 3 threaded outlets and one inlet. It's decent quality, though I have nothing else to compare it to. We boxed ours in with lumber to keep it as stable as possible. I think you could tie them together at one of the outlets, or with a common tee on the inlet.
We got a SeeLevel II tank monitor for fresh and grey tanks. The sensor just sticks to the outside of the tank, no problems there.
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:01 PM   #3
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
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Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
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I wanted a 100ga tank but couldn't find one at that price. Looks like a good deal.
You could look into Uniseal? I just discovered it this week. My grey water is a 30 gallon barrel, and I was unsure how to connect a drain to it. Uniseal is meant specifically for that application, but it should work for you maybe also.
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:22 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
@Drew
Thank you for your reply. Sometimes too cheap means loss of quality. I didn't want to end up with a flooded bus.

@JDSquared
Thank you for that info. It is my plans to have 200 gallons fresh water, 100 gallons grey water and 5 gallons to be a urine collector stored under the bus.

On a different topic, the reason I am separating my grey water from the urine is because I am also investigating the practicality of filtering the shower and sink grey water to be re-used for showers, which would mean I would have a 50 gallon treated grey tank just for showers. I'm not sure of the feasibility of that...just something I am investigating.
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imkzrudob View Post
Sometimes too cheap means loss of quality. I didn't want to end up with a flooded bus.
Yeah, I hear ya. That's why we boxed the tank in with 2x12 lumber. The plastic didn't look flimsy, but having 800lbs of water sloshing around made me a little nervous about the strength of the tank itself. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 12-17-2022, 04:34 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
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This is probably a newbie question … but ”hooking” the two tanks together is as simple as running a line at the lowest point? They will equalize each other out to the same level??
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Old 12-18-2022, 11:47 AM   #7
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff2010 View Post
This is probably a newbie question … but ”hooking” the two tanks together is as simple as running a line at the lowest point? They will equalize each other out to the same level??
This is exactly what I did. I have two 110-gal rotomolded tanks that hang under the floor on either side of the fuel tank behind the front axle, and they're interconnected with a piece of 3/4" galvanized pipe that also has a drain valve at one end and the feed to the pumps at the other end. Each tank has its own 3/4" ball valve, and each end of the pipe also has a garden hose threaded inlet and a check valve: this means I never need to drag hoses under the bus to fill the tanks. I can easily fill both tanks through either GH inlet, and their levels always equalize.

John
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Old 12-18-2022, 12:02 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,363
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
Quote:
Originally Posted by imkzrudob View Post

My question is has anybody used or purchased this tank before? And what is the quality?
My second question, it appears that this tank only has 1 inlet. Recommendations for connecting two of these tanks together? Along with installing a water fill / water level meter?
or
Would you recommend that I go with a tank that has multiple threaded inlets installed for the $500-600?
For only $2.20 per gallon I'm curious how thick the plastic is. I paid $2.50 /gal some years ago to have my four tanks rotomolded by Ronco Plastics in Tustin CA, and I specified that they must be 3/8" thick. If the tank is only 5/16" thick its walls will bulge more when full, but in practice this won't matter much because you should box in the tank with timber or 1/2" plywood to support the walls. Obviously it won't have internal baffles, so it's important to mount the front of the tank(s) against a bulkhead or wall that will absolutely prevent any forward movement and will resist the force of water sloshing forward under hard braking.

I can fill either water tank through the city water connections, and I also used Uniflow connectors in the top of each tank for my gravity-fill inlets. I don't plan on using the gravity fills much, but they could be useful if I were filling the tanks from an unpressurized source that couldn't push in the water against the tanks' head pressure.

John
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