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04-12-2020, 11:31 AM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
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Fresh Water Tank Question / Concerns
It has been a while since I posted anything, but as of this day, this second, there is a good chance unless all goes sideways that I am going to be getting a bus tomorrow. With that in mind, it sort of got real real quick. You can imagine I have been going through and getting updated prices on various pieces and parts that I am going to need for the build. I started with the water tanks. Now, like everyone, I am about saving money, but there comes a point that you sacrifice quality / piece of mind / safety for price. I am looking at putting 200 gallons of fresh water in the bus. This means I am going to be connecting 2 - 100 gallon tanks together. Most water tanks I see priced between $300-600 for one 100 gallon tank, until I came across this one
My question is has anybody used or purchased this tank before? And what is the quality?
My second question, it appears that this tank only has 1 inlet. Recommendations for connecting two of these tanks together? Along with installing a water fill / water level meter?
or
Would you recommend that I go with a tank that has multiple threaded inlets installed for the $500-600?
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04-12-2020, 04:49 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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That's the exact tank we got, from the same place. We picked it up in person to save any shipping costs. It's got 3 threaded outlets and one inlet. It's decent quality, though I have nothing else to compare it to. We boxed ours in with lumber to keep it as stable as possible. I think you could tie them together at one of the outlets, or with a common tee on the inlet.
We got a SeeLevel II tank monitor for fresh and grey tanks. The sensor just sticks to the outside of the tank, no problems there.
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04-12-2020, 07:01 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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I wanted a 100ga tank but couldn't find one at that price. Looks like a good deal.
You could look into Uniseal? I just discovered it this week. My grey water is a 30 gallon barrel, and I was unsure how to connect a drain to it. Uniseal is meant specifically for that application, but it should work for you maybe also.
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04-12-2020, 07:22 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
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@Drew
Thank you for your reply. Sometimes too cheap means loss of quality. I didn't want to end up with a flooded bus.
@JDSquared
Thank you for that info. It is my plans to have 200 gallons fresh water, 100 gallons grey water and 5 gallons to be a urine collector stored under the bus.
On a different topic, the reason I am separating my grey water from the urine is because I am also investigating the practicality of filtering the shower and sink grey water to be re-used for showers, which would mean I would have a 50 gallon treated grey tank just for showers. I'm not sure of the feasibility of that...just something I am investigating.
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04-12-2020, 07:26 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imkzrudob
Sometimes too cheap means loss of quality. I didn't want to end up with a flooded bus.
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Yeah, I hear ya. That's why we boxed the tank in with 2x12 lumber. The plastic didn't look flimsy, but having 800lbs of water sloshing around made me a little nervous about the strength of the tank itself. Better safe than sorry.
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12-17-2022, 04:34 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 13
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This is probably a newbie question … but ”hooking” the two tanks together is as simple as running a line at the lowest point? They will equalize each other out to the same level??
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12-18-2022, 11:47 AM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,363
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff2010
This is probably a newbie question … but ”hooking” the two tanks together is as simple as running a line at the lowest point? They will equalize each other out to the same level??
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This is exactly what I did. I have two 110-gal rotomolded tanks that hang under the floor on either side of the fuel tank behind the front axle, and they're interconnected with a piece of 3/4" galvanized pipe that also has a drain valve at one end and the feed to the pumps at the other end. Each tank has its own 3/4" ball valve, and each end of the pipe also has a garden hose threaded inlet and a check valve: this means I never need to drag hoses under the bus to fill the tanks. I can easily fill both tanks through either GH inlet, and their levels always equalize.
John
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12-18-2022, 12:02 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,363
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imkzrudob
My question is has anybody used or purchased this tank before? And what is the quality?
My second question, it appears that this tank only has 1 inlet. Recommendations for connecting two of these tanks together? Along with installing a water fill / water level meter?
or
Would you recommend that I go with a tank that has multiple threaded inlets installed for the $500-600?
|
For only $2.20 per gallon I'm curious how thick the plastic is. I paid $2.50 /gal some years ago to have my four tanks rotomolded by Ronco Plastics in Tustin CA, and I specified that they must be 3/8" thick. If the tank is only 5/16" thick its walls will bulge more when full, but in practice this won't matter much because you should box in the tank with timber or 1/2" plywood to support the walls. Obviously it won't have internal baffles, so it's important to mount the front of the tank(s) against a bulkhead or wall that will absolutely prevent any forward movement and will resist the force of water sloshing forward under hard braking.
I can fill either water tank through the city water connections, and I also used Uniflow connectors in the top of each tank for my gravity-fill inlets. I don't plan on using the gravity fills much, but they could be useful if I were filling the tanks from an unpressurized source that couldn't push in the water against the tanks' head pressure.
John
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