Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-10-2019, 12:29 PM   #1
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 84
Year: 2008
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT
Photos of Tankless LP Water Heater Installations

I purchased a Tankless LP Water Heater with the intention to install it internally. I saw a post on another site (Just Right Bus: June 2014) where the water heater exploded, which has now made me wary about an internal installation. However I think their external installation approach is less than attractive.


For those who have successfully done an internal installation: can you post some photos? I do have to deal with venting, so if you can include how you managed the venting, that would be extremely helpful.


Thanks in advance!
cofrari is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 12:57 PM   #2
Bus Geek
 
brokedown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,019
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
My Ecotemp L5 has been working great for the last year. I mounted it inside for several reasons, and just use our hatch and/or windows to ventilate when we're using it. Keeping it inside eliminates my fear of freezing it, which I have seen destroy similar units if they hadn't been properly drained. Mine is mounted in a neutral space near our sink with a metal heat shield behind it and plenty of space above it. My only complaint about it really is that it can be hard to regulate the temperature, particularly if your water isn't very cold, as there is a minimum amount of heat it can produce that may be more than you want.

The model I got is https://amzn.to/2Py5bXS
__________________
Keep up with us and our build!
Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and Twitter
brokedown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 01:42 PM   #3
Bus Geek
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,641
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
I have the same Ecotemp as discussed in the article. When I first began using it the burner would often shut down despite having proper flow and pressure. "Mike" was contacted and with his help I re-set the factory gas/air mixture and the heater has operated flawlessly since.

Knowing the heater was designed for outdoor use and since I didn't want the heater on the outside of my bus, I designed a steel heater cabinet for inside the bus, The cabinet is sealed to the inside, gets all combustion air from outside the bus and exhausts completely to the outside. I've added a thermocouple to the outlet water line that shuts the heater down at my pre-set temp.

I chose to vent the heater through what was originally the left rear quarter window and to draw combustion air in through the floor.

.

Here is a pic of the heater with its exhaust hood (matched to the bus contours) and the vent screen (placed in the floor to keep critters out).

.

This is the initial installation. I also installed the two water pumps there. You'll notice that I kept the steel inner body panel to mount the heater on. I used high temp insulation between the inner and outer walls behind the heater--otherwise I used 2" of foam insulation throughout the bus.

.

This pic shows the steel cabinet that covers the heater and pumps and isolates them from the interior of the bus. There are two access panels in the face of the cabinet securly secured by screws and insulated against leakage.

.

With the bus now complete you can see the water heater cabinet on the rear wall of the bus behing the slide out.

.

.

Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 01:53 PM   #4
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 84
Year: 2008
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
and just use our hatch and/or windows to ventilate when we're using it.



So you just open a window and allow it to vent out the default opening on the top? You don't need to direct the exhaust out the open window?


Thanks!
cofrari is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 02:13 PM   #5
Bus Geek
 
brokedown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,019
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by cofrari View Post
So you just open a window and allow it to vent out the default opening on the top? You don't need to direct the exhaust out the open window?


Thanks!
Correct. Provided it's not actively broken, there's no reason to treat it differently than a buddy heater or a propane stove. Don't point the hot part at anything combustible!
__________________
Keep up with us and our build!
Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and Twitter
brokedown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 04:13 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Unusually I erred on the side of safety and switched from the L5 and L10 to off brands that had a 4" round vent, easier to vent with PVC than building plenums to direct the whole top of the L's.
I'll cut holes in the counter top and run the pipes in a Y out the side or roof.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20191114_175432493.jpg (112.7 KB, 13 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 04:25 PM   #7
Bus Geek
 
brokedown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,019
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
Was that dual heater setup to allow you to do hot water for showers and dishes separately from heated floor?
__________________
Keep up with us and our build!
Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and Twitter
brokedown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 04:28 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
Was that dual heater setup to allow you to do hot water for showers and dishes separately from heated floor?
Yes sir.

The floor is a closed loop separate system.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 06:45 PM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
Ronnie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,487
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
I have my (Marey) tankless heater inside the shower, same set up that i had in a camper for a number of years. There is a fantastic fan vent in the bathroom, and I leave it open a bit when taking a shower. In warm weather open a lot and fan running.

Of course if you spray it directly you can put the flame out.
Ronnie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 07:22 PM   #10
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 4
As a plumber I advise to read the instructions and vent according to manufacturers specifications.

I’ve come across too many fixtures incorrectly vented.

If you follow the directions you will have a safe water heater that performs as designed.
Richie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 07:48 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
Ronnie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,487
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie View Post
As a plumber I advise to read the instructions and vent according to manufacturers specifications.

Iíve come across too many fixtures incorrectly vented.

If you follow the directions you will have a safe water heater that performs as designed.

Well if you read the instructions it says outdoor use only, at least mine does. So we are done and can not use them. So lets get real, as long as there is a way to vent them I see no reason not to use it inside. Besides as has already been mentioned the ventless propane space heaters are used without problems, again some ventalation is a good idea, a slightly open roof vent, or window open just a bit, and a co detector.

I had forgotten there is a ducted top option available for the Marey tankless heaters, think it connects to a 3" duct
Ronnie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 08:14 PM   #12
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Windham NH
Posts: 652
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
I was going to do something similar, custom-venting to the exterior. Eventually filed it under the "not worth it" cabinet. I have the L5 and one with a round vent hole, neither I'd be comfortable venting with some custom hood.


I ended up with a $600 RV instant heater. Ouch, but glad I did. Proper venting, and the unit spins up automatically every so often to prevent freezing- important in cold weather.


Not to crap on anyone doing this- if you have the metalworking skills I didn't, hooray for you.
kazetsukai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2019, 01:46 AM   #13
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 84
Year: 2008
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Unusually I erred on the side of safety and switched from the L5 and L10 to off brands that had a 4" round vent, easier to vent with PVC than building plenums to direct the whole top of the L's.
I'll cut holes in the counter top and run the pipes in a Y out the side or roof.

I did the Camplux 10L which vents similar to yours (https://camplux.com/camplux-10l-2-64...-water-heater/).
cofrari is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2019, 05:00 PM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Maine
Posts: 12
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Grumman
Chassis: P30
Engine: Cummins 4BT 3.9
Rated Cap: Full load of Frito Lay Ch
The EXCEL is made and marketed to be installed inside.
Pizzarco43 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2019, 05:19 PM   #15
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 551
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
My Ecotemp L5 has been working great for the last year. I mounted it inside for several reasons, and just use our hatch and/or windows to ventilate when we're using it. Keeping it inside eliminates my fear of freezing it, which I have seen destroy similar units if they hadn't been properly drained. Mine is mounted in a neutral space near our sink with a metal heat shield behind it and plenty of space above it. My only complaint about it really is that it can be hard to regulate the temperature, particularly if your water isn't very cold, as there is a minimum amount of heat it can produce that may be more than you want.

The model I got is https://amzn.to/2Py5bXS

If you have a small space that you want to keep from freezing and you have electricity there is a small 120VAC/15A (1800 watt) plug adapter that has a built in thermostat (on at 35 degree F, off at 45 degree F) Just plug it into an outlet/cord and it has 2 plugs on it that you can plug in some type of heating device (I use 100-250 watt heat lamps/flood lamps in my pump house) Called a Thermo Cube, about $10 - $13. It works good, but the ground prong is fragile and will break off if you plug it into a tight plug and are not careful pulling it out - if you don't ever have to unplug it, this is not a problem.

I thought about using it with a red warning light just to let me know when it was about to freeze so I could have time to take care of whatever needed to be done before freeze, but the off @ 40 degrees business would be a pain.



I don't know if there are other brands available.


home page
http://www.thermocube.com/

big box store
https://www.homedepot.com/p/120-VAC-...-TC3/100210525
kidharris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2020, 12:32 PM   #16
Bus Nut
 
Frochevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 421
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
I don't have pictures and have not installed it yet.... But I have an Excel that is marketed as inside ventless heater. My plan is this:

My cooktop will be at the back of the bus on driver side. Above it I will have a microwave and and the vent from an RV that vents outside. (Normal cooktop hood) my rear window is already removed and I will mount the water heater in the general location where the window was and flip on the cooktop hood when using the heater. This will vent it outside (even though it says it doesn't need to be vented) I know .. I'm over cautious but my kids will be in here with us so putting safety first.

That being said if anyone sees any issues with that idea, please let me know!
__________________
Just getting started on short bus build...
2007 Collins (Chevy Express 3500)
LMM Duramax Diesel 4L85E Transmission
Frochevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2020, 12:49 PM   #17
Bus Crazy
 
Ronnie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,487
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy View Post
I don't have pictures and have not installed it yet.... But I have an Excel that is marketed as inside ventless heater. My plan is this:

My cooktop will be at the back of the bus on driver side. Above it I will have a microwave and and the vent from an RV that vents outside. (Normal cooktop hood) my rear window is already removed and I will mount the water heater in the general location where the window was and flip on the cooktop hood when using the heater. This will vent it outside (even though it says it doesn't need to be vented) I know .. I'm over cautious but my kids will be in here with us so putting safety first.

That being said if anyone sees any issues with that idea, please let me know!
Is your vent going through the roof or out the back window? If out the back window you may want to be able to close it while driving so exhaust from the bus does not come in.
Ronnie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2020, 01:11 PM   #18
Bus Nut
 
Frochevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 421
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
Is your vent going through the roof or out the back window? If out the back window you may want to be able to close it while driving so exhaust from the bus does not come in.
I've removed all of my windows. Putting in sheet metal now. It will have the RV vent that you can snap shut while in motion.
Frochevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×