Propane piping

[Danjo]

The only thing thats challenging with iron pipe is getting lengths and angles right. It can be a bit frustrating in tight spaces to get that right. One thing that works well is to trial-fit pipe from the appliance backwards. Though you’ll ultimately need to undo it and reassemble from one end to the other, it helps you figure out what you need

[Bus'n it]

Thanks for the responses guys. I really do appreciate them. The trunk line will be well protected from road debris as 80% of it will be located in the newly formed baggage area. Not that I am incapable of doing this work, but trying to reach out to mobile RV places, I have not received any responses. Again, liability? They advertise that they redo propane lines in RV’s trailers and such. I have been so busy with work and the heat is just God awful. Wanted to get something done.

[Oscar1]

Hey Simon
Maybe this can help with pipe sizing?

[musigenesis]

Man, this and the plumbing threads are making me think that when I move into my bus I'm just going to eat out and shower at the Planet Fitness.

[Bus'n it]

So on the FB skoolie forum was a guy that does Mobile RV repairs and alterations. I was not home when he was able to stop by just an hour ago (I was at dentist). Says he can run a rubber line from regulator to manifold and split to copper for the two appliances. $125 an hour. Sounds credible and is 10 min from my house.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by Bus'n it

So on the FB skoolie forum was a guy that does Mobile RV repairs and alterations. I was not home when he was able to stop by just an hour ago (I was at dentist). Says he can run a rubber line from regulator to manifold and split to copper for the two appliances. $125 an hour. Sounds credible and is 10 min from my house.

Wow that’s expensive to do something that’s not even legit

Well, as far as plumbers go that’s not expensive. Still not legit

[Bus'n it]

I think there's many ways to do this. I was going to run the lines through the under storage bay where he says it is not code to do so and will run it on the exterior. These pictures are from Forest River forum. Seems like they use rubber lines on their trailers. I believe the rubber line will be at the tank to the first distribution block and go in copper to the two appliances. What do I know. This is an RV repair company. $125 is a blessing to find someone willing to do work these days. Like anything, I would have to go back and "perfect" the work...

Oddly enough I had three legit welder/fabricators come and look at the bus when I wanted to do the under floor storage. All of them were $125 an hour which I was fine with. None came back. I wasted four months waiting on hopes and decided to do it on my own. Now its blazing hot for the next several months.

[Bus'n it]

For now, I told them to hold off on doing any work. Seeing that they want to run the lines under the exterior of the bus, I do not have the bottom most floor completed yet as I need the space to do work. I dunno, maybe I should just do it myself. Honestly, I wanted to keep this thing moving along. Also concerned about the 13" clearance from street to bottom of bus damaging the lines of whatever material is used. Back to square 1.

[TJones]

I'm going to go with marine grade propane line. It is thermo plastic with brass fittings. Marine code allows only for a line connection at the appliance and at the propane tank. A solenoid valves at the tank is also required to turn the propane on only when needed. Proper routing / securing plus some loom or spiral wrap hose protector would prevent damage to the hose.

Ted

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by Bus'n it

I think there's many ways to do this. I was going to run the lines through the under storage bay where he says it is not code to do so and will run it on the exterior. These pictures are from Forest River forum. Seems like they use rubber lines on their trailers. I believe the rubber line will be at the tank to the first distribution block and go in copper to the two appliances. What do I know. This is an RV repair company. $125 is a blessing to find someone willing to do work these days. Like anything, I would have to go back and "perfect" the work...

Oddly enough I had three legit welder/fabricators come and look at the bus when I wanted to do the under floor storage. All of them were $125 an hour which I was fine with. None came back. I wasted four months waiting on hopes and decided to do it on my own. Now its blazing hot for the next several months.

I’m surprised by the flex lines. Is there something I’m missing?

I feel you about the heat. I’m doing house repairs in the SoCal desert and it’s as hot as there. I’m on a roof right now. I’d hate to be in my back on the asphalt!

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by TJones

I'm going to go with marine grade propane line. It is thermo plastic with brass fittings. Marine code allows only for a line connection at the appliance and at the propane tank. A solenoid valves at the tank is also required to turn the propane on only when needed. Proper routing / securing plus some loom or spiral wrap hose protector would prevent damage to the hose.

Ted

Again, I’m surprised. It’s a little different environment for sure. I just had a quick glance at boat requirements. That’s some serious stuff because if it leaks you go boom!

[Danjo]

Well, I’ve been hanging onto the NFPA stuff as gospel and I’ll still swear by iron pipe as the safest way to go, but maybe based on the Forest River photos flex lines are allowed? (Honestly I’m still skeptical)

[Danjo]

5.3.2.5(K)
Flexible nonmetallic tubing or hose shall be either listed and used with listed fittings or part of a listed assembly.

[Oscar1]

Originally Posted by Bus'n it

I think there's many ways to do this. I was going to run the lines through the under storage bay where he says it is not code to do so and will run it on the exterior. These pictures are from Forest River forum. Seems like they use rubber lines on their trailers. I believe the rubber line will be at the tank to the first distribution block and go in copper to the two appliances. What do I know. This is an RV repair company. $125 is a blessing to find someone willing to do work these days. Like anything, I would have to go back and "perfect" the work...

Oddly enough I had three legit welder/fabricators come and look at the bus when I wanted to do the under floor storage. All of them were $125 an hour which I was fine with. None came back. I wasted four months waiting on hopes and decided to do it on my own. Now its blazing hot for the next several months.

Everything I've read says iron pipe outside and copper lines inside. Not sure how rubber lines can be considered for supply runs. obviously my interpretation of this differs from others so I'm just going to follow this as best I can and copy what the rv guys have been already doing for years.
Good luck every one, please don't blow up

[ChuckRatto]

I agree exactly! RVs for decades have used black pipe securely mounted with copper pigtails to appliances. I made sure mine was securely mounted in rubberized clamps to keep from stress and vibration cracking.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Originally Posted by Danjo

The only thing thats challenging with iron pipe is getting lengths and angles right. It can be a bit frustrating in tight spaces to get that right. One thing that works well is to trial-fit pipe from the appliance backwards. Though you’ll ultimately need to undo it and reassemble from one end to the other, it helps you figure out what you need

sorry i am late to this discussion.
i do steel pipe for a living so maybe this piece of advice will help someone out.
maybe a pain in the butt in a skoolie and am getting ready to do a shortie?
my big bus was simple.
anyway.
the easiest way to measure a cut for steel pipe.
install your beginning fitting tight and then hold your elbow where you want it to turn down, then measure face to face of each fitting then add 1-1/4" to that and that is your cut and thread length.
it works for everything up to 2" pipe after that its a little different as you get bigger.
the 1-1/4" is because the threads go into the fitting 5/8" on either end.
if you have a big box store cut and thread them for you then on his first thread if he doesnt check the threads by running a fitting on it by hand then ask him to.
i usually use the machine and install it by hand until i cant hold it and if the threads are correct then it should be 3 full turns off before a pipe wrench is ever used.
if its more then the threads are to deep and if its less then the threads are not deep enough.
2-1/2 to 3-1/2 should be your target point.
anything more than 3-1/2 turns on the fitting by hand you tend to run a chance of cracking the fitting once you put pipe wrenches on them. especially big box store chinese stuff is split casted fitting.
i have an LP gasmans hand book if you want me to look up your specific line length and combined BTU?
stove,oven,heater total and where each one is inline and in some instances the amount of elbows adds to the count. for instance(example) each hard elbow could add 1' of line length.
not trying to make it sound diffucult but we only want you to do this once.
60,000 BTU sounds like alot on a 3/8" line to me and if nothing else was connected or was connected and not being used at the same time the 1/2" still sounds small for a low pressure system.
a high pressure system maybe a low pressure system???

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

sorry i am late to this discussion.
i do steel pipe for a living so maybe this piece of advice will help someone out.
maybe a pain in the butt in a skoolie and am getting ready to do a shortie?
my big bus was simple.
anyway.
the easiest way to measure a cut for steel pipe.
install your beginning fitting tight and then hold your elbow where you want it to turn down, then measure face to face of each fitting then add 1-1/4" to that and that is your cut and thread length.
it works for everything up to 2" pipe after that its a little different as you get bigger.
the 1-1/4" is because the threads go into the fitting 5/8" on either end.
if you have a big box store cut and thread them for you then on his first thread if he doesnt check the threads by running a fitting on it by hand then ask him to.
i usually use the machine and install it by hand until i cant hold it and if the threads are correct then it should be 3 full turns off before a pipe wrench is ever used.
if its more then the threads are to deep and if its less then the threads are not deep enough.
2-1/2 to 3-1/2 should be your target point.
anything more than 3-1/2 turns on the fitting by hand you tend to run a chance of cracking the fitting once you put pipe wrenches on them. especially big box store chinese stuff is split casted fitting.
i have an LP gasmans hand book if you want me to look up your specific line length and combined BTU?
stove,oven,heater total and where each one is inline and in some instances the amount of elbows adds to the count. for instance(example) each hard elbow could add 1' of line length.
not trying to make it sound diffucult but we only want you to do this once.
60,000 BTU sounds like alot on a 3/8" line to me and if nothing else was connected or was connected and not being used at the same time the 1/2" still sounds small for a low pressure system.
a high pressure system maybe a low pressure system???

Thanks for the length calculation rule of thumb!

I ran 1/2”. I’ve only run the heater and stove simultaneously. In that case it didn’t seem to be a problem at all, at least looking at the flame on the stove as a gauge. I know that’s not scientific.

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by Danjo

Please read NFPA 1192. You can read it for free online.

I’d go with 1/2” black pipe to within 6 inches of the appliance connection and transition to flared 3/8” seamless copper tubing.

Doing black pipe is really easy. The only challenging part is determining your pipe length, but with a few fittings and an extra set of hands it’s not hard to figure out. Assemble with Teflon pipe sealant for use with propane, cap the ends and give it a pressure test. A flaring tool and a bender for the copper pipe and you’re all set.

You know I look up obsolete bus manuals frequently and usually find what I'm looking for quickly but this governmentesque standard has eluded me. Lots of sites will sell it to you for $50 to $80 but I couldn't find a free download. I'd appreciate it if you would share where you found a free download Thanks. I'll be having to do something with propane before too long.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by Oldyeller

You know I look up obsolete bus manuals frequently and usually find what I'm looking for quickly but this governmentesque standard has eluded me. Lots of sites will sell it to you for $50 to $80 but I couldn't find a free download. I'd appreciate it if you would share where you found a free download Thanks. I'll be having to do something with propane before too long.

Here’s the website. https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-stand...tail?code=1192

They aren’t government. They are more of an association. It was explained to me that NFPA is made up of insurance companies, manufacturers, contractors and individuals who all have skin in the game.

It’s not a download, you’ll need to read it online. You’ll need to make an account in the site. As far as I can tell they are reputable and aren’t selling your info. I get an email about once every 4 months

[Ross]

Danjo has got it. 1/2 inch black pipe and short sections of FLARED copper pipe. No compression fittings. Use the right dope, secure it all well, DO NOT have steel body metal rubbing copper pipe OR rubber hose. A 3/8 outlet on the regulator is fine.