 |
|
02-21-2021, 09:49 PM
|
#21
|
Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Earth
Posts: 150
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Cummins 5.9 ISB 24v
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Well, I think I do! But I also well understand the capacity of the human mind to mislead itself as to what it's capable of.
I was actually thinking something along these lines, like hooks with tensionable wires attached to the countertop. It would certainly be interesting-looking.
I'm definitely not capable of SS welding, though.
|
LOL ya I have that issue too! like I think I can talk normally.
__________________
His only defense was to answer a question she didn't ask.
|
|
|
02-22-2021, 08:58 AM
|
#22
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Cerrillos, NM
Posts: 393
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Front Engine
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 72
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Well, my bus isn't a democracy.
But what I'm thinking now is to glue the sink directly to a piece of plywood slightly bigger around than the sink, then screw the plywood to the cabinet framing with the rubber in between the plywood and the framing. The butcher block countertop would be fit around the base of the sink without being attached to it directly. The rubber should absorb most of the vibration and shock from the driving, lessening the strain on the sink/plywood adhesive.
|
This sounds like a great plan. Can’t wait to see how it all turns out, seems like you’re doing an exceptional job with your bus.
|
|
|
02-27-2021, 01:50 PM
|
#23
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
|
Whenever I barbeque, I get the fuel going by bashing knuckles, and sometimes two rocks, together.
I grok my Neanderthal within.
I suggest you twist you up some hemp!
Failing that, a couple yards pre-twisted twine may be had for tuppence...
Presuming the majority of time the environment will be static, a corner-to-corner tie off may suffice to hold down the sink.
Me, I'd go bandolier-style...

Call it a fashion choice
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
|
|
|
02-27-2021, 09:28 PM
|
#24
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,222
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I'm definitely not capable of SS welding, though.
|
Your posts make you seem like a thoroughly talented dude, fully capable of learning what needs to be learned.
My friend taught me basics about how to weld over 25 years ago. Never picked up the welder myself until last year or so, using a stick welder. No one looking over my shoulder with advice. Mild steel was OK.
Then I got some stainless steel 1"×1"×1/8" L-angle iron to build a sink stand, and some stainless steel welding sticks from True Value Hardware. I personally found the SS welding was somehow easier (I think it was the thicker welding rods), and the welds came out looking great! (especially compared to some of my first mild steel welds  )
Why do you think you are not capable of welding SS? All that repair work on you bus (    ) and you are skeered? Or am I missing something and my welds will be brittle and break or something?
I might would build a sub-frame (or perhaps super-frame, as it will be above the counter top) for the sink, as if it would drop down into the hole, and mount that frame to the counter top. Hard to see, but it looks like there are no mounting points for this sink? It only "sits" in place in a hole? My SS bar-sink has brackets under the edges to mount it to the counter top (but I'm no plumber!) so your sink just confuses me.
|
|
|
02-27-2021, 09:40 PM
|
#25
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Hereford, PA
Posts: 39
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I'm trying to avoid having the countertop at the level of the top of the sink, though.
|
This is actually pretty simple, if you want this to sit on the counter. These typically get glued in place with silicone adhesive/caulk. That's what I would use. To locate it securely, and prevent it from moving forward or backward in the bus, I would cut the shape in pink in the attached photo, out of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. Make sure they fit into the recess under the sink, then stack them up and screw them into the counter. Then you can apply the adhesive, and drop it in position.
__________________
Brad Ford
Apple Hill Farm
Hereford, PA
|
|
|
02-27-2021, 09:56 PM
|
#26
|
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4
|
Go to Home depot or Lowes and find a similar sink and get install info for it. They mount at the four corners with brackets made for that sink. It's simple
|
|
|
02-28-2021, 07:52 AM
|
#27
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,948
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
I grok my Neanderthal within.
|
Not skoolie-relevant, but I miss the days of my youth when "Neanderthal" was essentially a fraud on the level of Piltdown Man. Now it's back - cream rises to the top, but so do turds.
|
|
|
02-28-2021, 07:55 AM
|
#28
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,948
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome
Your posts make you seem like a thoroughly talented dude, fully capable of learning what needs to be learned.
Why do you think you are not capable of welding SS? All that repair work on you bus (    ) and you are skeered? Or am I missing something and my welds will be brittle and break or something?
|
I'm straight-up skeered! Thanks for the kind words. I feel I could learn SS welding if I devoted some time to it, but I'm running low these days on the mental energy I need to learn new stuff. Gotta devote what's left to getting a basic shell I can hang out in from time to time.
|
|
|
02-28-2021, 08:00 AM
|
#29
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,948
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brdfrd
This is actually pretty simple, if you want this to sit on the counter. These typically get glued in place with silicone adhesive/caulk. That's what I would use. To locate it securely, and prevent it from moving forward or backward in the bus, I would cut the shape in pink in the attached photo, out of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. Make sure they fit into the recess under the sink, then stack them up and screw them into the counter. Then you can apply the adhesive, and drop it in position.
Attachment 54516
|
This is a good idea, and it's made me re-think my plan. I'm still going to glue my sink to a piece of plywood which will then be screwed to my framing with a layer of rubber to act as a shock absorber, but I was planning on "locating" the sink on the plywood with four short pieces of dowel that would go into the four corner holes. Your pic made me realize that I could better secure the sink from sliding on the plywood by screwing blocks into place that fit snugly into the cavities on the underside. These and the butcher block material that will eventually surround the base of the sink will keep it from moving in the horizontal plane, and hopefully the adhesive plus the weight of the thing will keep it from bouncing up and pulling loose.
|
|
|
02-28-2021, 08:05 AM
|
#30
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,948
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeery B
Go to Home depot or Lowes and find a similar sink and get install info for it. They mount at the four corners with brackets made for that sink. It's simple
|
These are the installation instructions for a similar sink. They're basically concerned with just supporting this heavy thing from underneath, and then the cabinetry and countertop keep it from moving anywhere - which it isn't going to do anyway since it's so heavy.
In a house installation, there would be no concern with keeping the sink from moving upwards (unless there's an earthquake or something). In a moving vehicle ... well, this kind of sink probably shouldn't be used in a moving vehicle!
|
|
|
02-28-2021, 10:30 PM
|
#31
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2016
Location: SFBA, CA
Posts: 63
Year: Any!
Coachwork: Self!
Chassis: Crown or Gillig!
Engine: Cummins 855, 400 HP or more!
Rated Cap: 36,000 GVRW
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
This is the underside of my farmhouse sink. I want to install this so that the sink is essentially sitting on top of my countertop (rather than embedded or undermount like people normally do). Not sure how to attach it, though. There are these four holes in the bottom (one at each corner) and it looks like I could maybe get toggle bolts into them and bolt it firmly to the countertop that way. But I'm not sure if that's what these holes are meant for - I'm worried they might crack the sink or something since it's in a bus.
Attachment 54191
Is there some sort of standard bolt mounting for these that I'm missing? My google-fu is not turning anything up. Appreciate any knowledge or suggestions.
|
Whether you hang it or mount it or what ever, the drain pipe will still come out the bottom hole of the sink. I do not see an advantage to trying to hang it. I DO see future problems from improperly mounting it!
|
|
|
03-11-2021, 09:38 PM
|
#32
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,948
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
So I went with the plan of gluing the sink to plywood and screwing the plywood down to the framing. Here's where I started on it in my build thread, for reference. It's survived one pothole-filled drive so far and is still glued down solidly (I used Gorilla Glue construction adhesive since that's what I had around).
|
|
|
03-12-2021, 05:45 PM
|
#33
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,903
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
|
to be safe i would still find some sink clips.
did you build a base under it? if so the clips are not needed.
i know those things are heavy and wouldnt trust glue on its on especially over time.
|
|
|
03-23-2021, 12:26 AM
|
#34
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
If you're afraid of the casted holes breaking over stress, here's my 2 cents...
I would sandwich the hole with two rubber washers, one underneath and one on top...
Then use a carriage bolt or any other bolt of your choosing. This would relieve all of the stress around the hole and you won't have a problem. Just make sure they're at least as thick as garden hose washers. Maybe even double them up. You won't have any stress on the casted holes doing it that way. Don't over tighten the bolts, because it creates more tension so be careful of that.
|
|
|
03-23-2021, 12:49 AM
|
#35
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
|
Moly's in thr corners with 1/4" thick washers to avoid hard contact of the moly's, and adhesive caulk and it won't go anywhere. Snug the moly's, don't over tighten them 
Tile or finish up to the edge of the sink
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
|
|
|
01-19-2022, 09:57 PM
|
#36
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 28
|
farmhouse sink install
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
This is the underside of my farmhouse sink. I want to install this so that the sink is essentially sitting on top of my countertop (rather than embedded or undermount like people normally do). Not sure how to attach it, though. There are these four holes in the bottom (one at each corner) and it looks like I could maybe get toggle bolts into them and bolt it firmly to the countertop that way. But I'm not sure if that's what these holes are meant for - I'm worried they might crack the sink or something since it's in a bus.
Attachment 54191
Is there some sort of standard bolt mounting for these that I'm missing? My google-fu is not turning anything up. Appreciate any knowledge or suggestions.
|
Hello, wondering if you ended up installing this in your bus? We have a similar one we want to install and are wondering (if you did it) how you ended up installing it?
|
|
|
01-19-2022, 11:12 PM
|
#37
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,948
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BusDreamerRick
Hello, wondering if you ended up installing this in your bus? We have a similar one we want to install and are wondering (if you did it) how you ended up installing it?
|
Yeah, I installed it. Here's the spot in my build thread where I started on it. And then after a detour insulating my exit doors, here's where I continued on the sink install.
It's rock-solid and hasn't budged since then. It's glued to the plywood which has screw-blocks to keep the sink from shifting horizontally, and then it's surrounded by butcher block which along with the glue prevents the sink from being able to move towards the ceiling.
|
|
|
01-29-2022, 01:44 PM
|
#38
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 28
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
|
Smart! Thank you for the info. We built a platform for the sink and we plan to glue it to that. The wood blocks to keep it from moving is a great idea!
|
|
|
 |
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|