Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-01-2018, 07:44 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 67
Year: 1991
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Water plumbing

I have searched through the plumbing forum and trying to design our plumbing system... What I am curious of is how others have laid theirs out? I wanna grab some tanks for fresh water grey and black water behind rear axle... All water lines for shower sinks etc on driver's side.. can I run my plumbing as in a manufactured home?? Or any direction to some detailed plans of my predecessors as I'm.not trying to reinvent the wheel just fit it to our rig efficiently... Thanks to all!!!!
bman91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2018, 07:08 AM   #2
Site Team
 
JDOnTheGo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: The West
Posts: 1,091
Year: 1998
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 102 EL3
Engine: DD 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by bman91 View Post
I have searched through the plumbing forum and trying to design our plumbing system... What I am curious of is how others have laid theirs out? I wanna grab some tanks for fresh water grey and black water behind rear axle... All water lines for shower sinks etc on driver's side.. can I run my plumbing as in a manufactured home??
This post may help:
Plumbing - Moving the Liquids - JdFinley.com

Unless you have some local rules/regulation with which you must comply, you can do pretty much anything you want. House/RV plumbing is typical - PEX tubing, PVC for drains, classic p-traps, etc. Finding a place, the right "fit" tank, and mounting them is usually the toughest job. You do have to consider the drains and keeping them running downhill.
__________________
JD - Full timer out west
Missy - 1998 MCI 102-EL3 - 1.7kW Solar - 10kWh Lithium
My Adventures & Build
JDOnTheGo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 03:59 PM   #3
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo View Post
This post may help:
Plumbing - Moving the Liquids - JdFinley.com

Unless you have some local rules/regulation with which you must comply, you can do pretty much anything you want. House/RV plumbing is typical - PEX tubing, PVC for drains, classic p-traps, etc. Finding a place, the right "fit" tank, and mounting them is usually the toughest job. You do have to consider the drains and keeping them running downhill.

Since plumbing is something I haven't done too much in-depth Googling of just yet, in that link you posted the writer has a pressure accumulator in his system diagram. Is that something that is REQUIRED for reliability, or is that just a precautionary item?
Yuuyia_Takahashi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 04:07 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I would prefer to not have all that movable liquid weight hanging off the ass of my bus. My plan is to have most of the plumbing centralized in the bus with the tanks as near the drains as possible.
There's basically only 2 rules in residential plumbing, sh*t doesn't run uphill, and hot is always on the left. If you have a composite toilet, only one rule applies.

Was just watching the ARCA race and a Menards commercial came on promoting SiouxChief plumbing products, much of which could be used in our builds.

Support | Brackets | Stub Out Brackets | Bend Supports
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 04:17 PM   #5
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I would prefer to not have all that movable liquid weight hanging off the ass of my bus. My plan is to have most of the plumbing centralized in the bus with the tanks as near the drains as possible.
There's basically only 2 rules in residential plumbing, sh*t doesn't run uphill, and hot is always on the left. If you have a composite toilet, only one rule applies.
Not to highjack the thread, but I'm assuming you mean having your tanks mounted between the axles for weight distribution purposes as well as to making plumbing lengths as short as practically applicable?
Yuuyia_Takahashi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 04:27 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuuyia_Takahashi View Post
Not to highjack the thread, but I'm assuming you mean having your tanks mounted between the axles for weight distribution purposes as well as to making plumbing lengths as short as practically applicable?
Exactly
No hijack, topic related.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 04:29 PM   #7
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuuyia_Takahashi View Post
Since plumbing is something I haven't done too much in-depth Googling of just yet, in that link you posted the writer has a pressure accumulator in his system diagram. Is that something that is REQUIRED for reliability, or is that just a precautionary item?
The pressure accumulator is an affordable device that prevents the system "pulsing", and allows steady water-flow at the faucets.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 04:39 PM   #8
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
The pressure accumulator is an affordable device that prevents the system "pulsing", and allows steady water-flow at the faucets.
Ahhhh, gotcha. I'd assume it's a NVH consideration as well as a longevity thing? because I'd suspect that the pulsing isn't good for the pumps and equipment?
Yuuyia_Takahashi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 04:41 PM   #9
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuuyia_Takahashi View Post
Ahhhh, gotcha. I'd assume it's a NVH consideration as well as a longevity thing? because I'd suspect that the pulsing isn't good for the pumps and equipment?
I would think it helps the pump quite a lot. Also helps provide a steady flow of water through an instant heater.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 04:48 PM   #10
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
I would think it helps the pump quite a lot. Also helps provide a steady flow of water through an instant heater.
Got it! That was what I was thinking was pump longevity so that it doesn't accidentally cavitate, which would also harm a point-of-use heater.

Thanks.
Yuuyia_Takahashi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 08:28 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 67
Year: 1991
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: 8.3 cummins
I unfortunately have no room in the center of my rig for tanks gens on either side taking these spaces... In going right behind axle and smaller tanks about only place I have available
bman91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 08:55 PM   #12
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by bman91 View Post
I unfortunately have no room in the center of my rig for tanks gens on either side taking these spaces... In going right behind axle and smaller tanks about only place I have available

What size is you bus?
Yuuyia_Takahashi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 11:46 PM   #13
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,899
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Figure out how your drains will flow to the tanks first. After that running PEX to the fixtures is easy. Wheel wells and frame rails are the most stubborn obstacles. Drinking water tanks can go inside the bus under a bed or a bench.

Before you mount your black/gray tanks between the frame rails make sure you can run drain lines through the rails without cutting holes into them which will weaken the rails.

Most mount tanks on the driver's side since dump stations are on that side.

The accumulator lets the pump run less often. It's fairly easy to build your own out of PVC pipe so you can build one to fit the space you have.
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 08:03 AM   #14
Site Team
 
JDOnTheGo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: The West
Posts: 1,091
Year: 1998
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 102 EL3
Engine: DD 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuuyia_Takahashi View Post
... has a pressure accumulator in his system diagram. Is that something that is REQUIRED for reliability, or is that just a precautionary item?
I installed it purely because I despise noise. Listening to the water pump every time I crack a faucet open is annoying to me. So, in my case, it is purely a "comfort" item.
__________________
JD - Full timer out west
Missy - 1998 MCI 102-EL3 - 1.7kW Solar - 10kWh Lithium
My Adventures & Build
JDOnTheGo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 11:01 AM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 67
Year: 1991
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Is everyone set up with fresh water tank inside the bus?? And is this standard for a reason?? Thanks ahead of time
bman91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 11:12 AM   #16
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by bman91 View Post
Is everyone set up with fresh water tank inside the bus?? And is this standard for a reason?? Thanks ahead of time
I'm guessing the larger holding tanks are too large to mount under the body. Keeping them inside helps prevent the water from freezing. Shorter run lines, less holes through the floor.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 12:32 PM   #17
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by bman91 View Post
Is everyone set up with fresh water tank inside the bus?? And is this standard for a reason?? Thanks ahead of time
I think its for a number of reasons...

Space savings under the bus. If you have a smaller bus or have one with belly storage boxes you may not be able to fit both or all three tanks under the body.

To keep the tank/lines from freezing. (although they do sell tank blankets that are 12v for this purpose also)

Plumbing length, if its in the buss near the water usage points there is less distance for it to travel, making the pump workload less.
Yuuyia_Takahashi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 08:52 PM   #18
Skoolie
 
IWC Bus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 153
Year: 2001
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: A3RE
Engine: 3126 Cat
Rated Cap: 33220 GVwR
Water plumbing

So just to jump in here for a minute. What is the pump of choice for most skoolies? I have reviewed so many and I think I am ready to purchase a Shurflo Aqua King ll. I was also thinking about using a Shurflo Pro Blaster ll and run then together (to make a FRESH WATER DUAL PUMP SYSTEM).
I canít the Accumulator Tank which I have already. I am using a 55-gallon tank and a 45-gallon tank for fresh water, A PEX Manifold. Here is the other big question, can someone recommend a good hot water heater.
__________________
The Rev.

Don't Fret God's Not Through With Me Yet!
IWC Bus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 08:56 PM   #19
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by IWC Bus View Post
Here is the other big question, can someone recommend a good hot water heateer.
Atwood seems to be a highly regarded brand from my reading so far if thatís any help. Iím sure others will chime in.
Yuuyia_Takahashi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 09:01 PM   #20
Bus Geek
 
Robin97396's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
You can get a residential propane water heater that could run on relatively low amperage from a converted 110 outlet. I have no idea what size you're talking about, or even if there are better alternatives. That's just what I've got on hand is a couple 40 gallon propane water heaters that need 110. I'm not trying to sell anything. Just saying that might work, or variations of it.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
Robin97396 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×