Would you build over this?

[CoffeeGuy]

I wanted to reduce the number of 90° turns in the plumbing to my recirculating shower since the various filters create some amount of pressure to overcome so I replaced my galvanized pipe with braid reinforced vinyl hose.

But now I've been putting off finishing the shower for a long time and I'm at a point where I either build over the vinyl or I build a way to remove the shower wall so I can fix any future issues.

We were originally going to finish the shower with Palisades Vinyl Tiles, but they would be very permanent. I also have a few hundred board feet of cedar that I can plane down to half inch boards and finish the shower walls with epoxy-coated cedar.

I know what my gut tells me, but I'm interested in getting some feedback. What would you do?

(Photo is rotated 90° counter-clockwise, the forum software seems to like doing that now and then.

[BarnYardCamp]

I'd be more concerned about the clamps than the reinforced poly tubing. So, no, I wouldn't build over that.

[s2mikon]

If it can leak it will. Build accordingly.

[CoffeeGuy]

Originally Posted by BarnYardCamp

I'd be more concerned about the clamps than the reinforced poly tubing. So, no, I wouldn't build over that.

What style clamps would you use?

[fo4imtippin]

Originally Posted by CoffeeGuy

What style clamps would you use?

There's a thread on on an RV forum covering this topic.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f217/braided-vinyl-hose-vs-pex-225215.html


It appears some rv manufacturers use pex clamps on that flex hose. But in some cases it's too small so won't fit or will cut the hose. A wide band clamp might work better.



Personally I would run pex all the way. RV's are built terribly and usually have to go back in for leaks on this type of stuff.

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by CoffeeGuy

I wanted to reduce the number of 90° turns in the plumbing to my recirculating shower since the various filters create some amount of pressure to overcome so I replaced my galvanized pipe with braid reinforced vinyl hose.
(....)

--------------------

I do agree that, filters may cause resistance in presure. (See surface area)

I'm not sure that the vinyl tubing, nor the reduction in turns, will overcome any resistance. Rigid pipe, properly secured & sized, would do well. Why choose vinyl over pex?


Each of the water lines ought to be secured with straps. Currently, they are held in place by (straining) the hose clamps.

I also dig the nail plates, guarding the hose. Well done, Sir. The wires need those, too. Currently, they are inviting the finish nailer to peirce the adjacent wires.

In regards to covering up the joints & fittings (plumbing, electric, propane), I concur with the group. Do not permanently cover them up. Leave the pump & fittings accessible, via removable cover or door.... labeled, preferably.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

if you want to stay with the braided hose then i would switch to i think they call them constant tension hose clamps that have a solid inner liner that wont bite into the hose.
also as mentioned you need supports to help prevent movement and with hose anywhere i go through a stud/wall or whatever i make the hole big enough to be able to put a piece of old water hose or bigger tubing around it at the penetration to help prevent chafing.
i might would consider what you have if it is all accessible or can be visually inspected frequently just because of what you are doing and as stuff breaks the replacement might not pipe in at the same area and things would be quicker and cheaper to rework but that is the only reason for me. also need to leave a loop in the lines for expansion and contraction and thats what is going to wear out the hose clamp connections.
i ran copper hard pipe for everything but thats because i do commercial piping for a living and have access to plenty of scrap piping and fittings on my work truck.
good luck

[CoffeeGuy]

Originally Posted by fo4imtippin

There's a thread on on an RV forum covering this topic.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ex-225215.html

That thread was an interesting read. it doesn't really push me in one direction or another, but that's fine.

Originally Posted by fo4imtippin

Personally I would run pex all the way. RV's are built terribly and usually have to go back in for leaks on this type of stuff.

I originally had pex everywhere except where it would be inside the shower wall and inaccessible. That's where I had the galvanized. But after I had my system together, the rate of flow wasn't as much as I had intended, so I started looking for ways to improve. I used vinyl at the pump to reduce vibration, and I decided to try the vinyl and reduce elbows. The flow issue turned out to be some pipe thread dope that clogged a screen in my shower hose, but at this point I had already converted to vinyl. Now I am second-guessing myself.

I might keep the vinyl and make it so that the shower wall can be removed if necessary. I don't love the clamps I have, but there is a similar style that keeps a fully round shape when clamped down. I might switch to those.

[CoffeeGuy]

I think I have made a decision. I am going to re-run some of this plumbing, but I am also going to panel the shower with cedar, add an access door below the shower valve, waterproof the interior of the wall (studs and all) in case any water were ever to get past the access door, and add a way for any water that might leak inside the wall cavity to empty into the shower pan. The wife really liked the palisade vinyl tile, but this is going to be far easier to manage, I think, as I'm used to working with wood and I have plenty of it.

Thank you all for your input!

Tim

[Danjo]

Used PEX everywhere.