12v Refrigerators

[Sasquatters]

Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo

Well done!! Nothing beats some actual measured data with which to begin making good, informed decisions!!

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f51/ou...tml#post273849

[veglorde]

Digging this back up because it seems to be the most relevant...

I’m likely purchasing what is probably the same aforementioned Whynter dual zone fridge. Some specs for reference:

“work with 12/24V DC and 110V AC power; voltage power DC 12V/24V – 4.5a /2. 5a Car lighter socket” also notes 75 watts

If I’m assuming correctly, 75W is when on cooling cycle, not constant. Many comments suggest it averages 4.5-5amps.

I’ll be installing a 12VDC (cigarette lighter) for this to be plugged into. My questions:
- will a 10A 12VDC receptacle be sufficient? (I assume yes based on the specs, but I know 15A receptacles exist)
- I’ll be installing this 18ft from my fuse block, so 36ft in wire. Based on my calculations, 10 gauge will be sufficient. Does this sound right?
- in reference to the above, if the DC cable that comes with the fridge is 10ft, and I can move the receptacle closer to the fuse block to meet in the middle, thus reducing my total wire length, will that indeed change my wire gauge? (I sort of had a similar question recently about my MaxxAir fan—if the wires that come with reduce the length of the wires I’m adding, can I factor that length into my calculation?) Or should the total circuit length including what wires come with the accessories be measured?

Thanks in advance!

[rossvtaylor]

Hi Veglorde,


A 10A circuit should be fine and, yes, 10 AWG is good, and all the wire is counted...not just from the end of the supplied cable. Now...many people would connect the ground to the chassis...so your wire length calculations can be impacted by that, since the chassis is a BF AWG (assuming your bonding is good). But running grounds (negatives, in any modern bus) back to a common point near the battery is good practice.


On a related note, we have the Edgestar versions of this...the same company, I think, or at least the same factory. Ours have always come with a 12V power cord that can be hardwired, so you don't have to use the cigarette lighter plug. I'd personally avoid the cigarette lighter connection, if you can. It can jiggle loose, then you lose your food...

[veglorde]

Thank you rossvtaylor! This is very helpful.

Resources on hardwiring a fridge like this aren’t, erm, dumbed down to quite where I’m at I suppose. Would hardwiring entail adding Anderson power pole connectors to the end of the 10AWG wire and plugging that into the fridge? Do I have the right connector in mind? And did you ground to chassis? I hear “non-critical load” and while I get it, a $700+ fridge doesn’t come to mind

[rossvtaylor]

Originally Posted by veglorde

Thank you rossvtaylor! This is very helpful.

Resources on hardwiring a fridge like this aren’t, erm, dumbed down to quite where I’m at I suppose. Would hardwiring entail adding Anderson power pole connectors to the end of the 10AWG wire and plugging that into the fridge? Do I have the right connector in mind? And did you ground to chassis? I hear “non-critical load” and while I get it, a $700+ fridge doesn’t come to mind

Pardon this low-resolution screen grab, but I had to blow it up. Instead of using the cigarette lighter plug, cut off the plug and use the cord in this image. These two connectors come with the fridge. Wire it directly to a fused circuit, probably by crimping connectors on and extending these wires to a fuse block or to the battery (with a fuse!). The negative is grounded, so there's no need to add some other ground. Just connect those two wires, positive and negative, and Bob's your uncle. There's no need to add extra connectors, because you can unplug the supplied connector from the fridge if you need to remove it.



EDIT: to add some polarity clarification. The connector that plugs into the fridge has a flat on one side, so it's polarized and can't be plugged in wrong. It's late and dark and cold...so I can't go outside to see which side is positive and which is negative on ours. So, to find out which wire is positive, unscrew the collar around the nose of the cigarette lighter plug on the other end of that cable. The center terminal is the positive and the side terminal is the negative. One of those wires will be ribbed or have imprinted writing and the other won't. Make note of which is the center (positive) and make sure you hook it up to the fused wire.

[veglorde]

Hah, when you put it that way... it’s too obvious. I got too heady about it.

Thank you 10x over!

[s2mikon]

I don't waste my time with cigarette lighter style power plugs. I use Anderson power plugs SB-50 in your case. I have been using them for decades and they just work. Just my 2 cents.

[rossvtaylor]

Originally Posted by s2mikon

I don't waste my time with cigarette lighter style power plugs. I use Anderson power plugs SB-50 in your case. I have been using them for decades and they just work. Just my 2 cents.

I agree with the Andersons for anything that needs a plug/receptacle in a vehicle...or an aircraft, too. They make itty bitty little ones all the way up to big ones, which work well for winch power or battery bank connections. I just meant that in this case the refrigerator already has a receptacle and a cord with a matching plug, so he won't need a second connector pair.

[Vaebrin]

I installed a 12/24v 13cu ft. Unique brand fridge 2 years ago. It’s a Canadian manufacturer since that’s where I’m located. Retail up here is approx $1000 cad, so only $700usd. Unfortunately I could only get one on short notice out of Las Vegas so paid more for it than would at home but had it shipped out to Tacoma Washington and installed it on the road. It doesn’t have a lock but has good magnet seals only a few times has it opened on a side sway coming off an approach, (maybe had 1 too many beer in the door Shelves)
With a little creativity I rigged up a tether strap off the side to remedy that. I’m running only 300w of panel and 3 96ah 12v AGM batteries, gives me approx 120 usable ah. Only time Ive had issue is on the coast Of Washington/Oregon because there wasn’t much sun. I’ve also 5 children that are constantly charging devices an rv furnace that gets run every morning briefly, 2 power vent fans, LED strip lights and water pump. I interconnected the charging system off the engine for emergency charging. Spent the last 2 winters running around your beautiful country trying to boon dock as much as possible.
Good luck.

[52Flyer]

Is there someone that can suggest a good fridge manufacturer for an old style fridge? We are rebuilding a 1952 Western Flyer. I saw one in a posting on Instagram a while back but can't find where it was again.

Any Help is much appreciated.

[s2mikon]

What do you mean by an old style fridge. Looks?

[52Flyer]

Yes that is correct.
Would like a new fridge with vintage styling to go with the style of the bus, if possible.

[s2mikon]

Try craigs list and swap out the compressor with a 12 volt unit. Just a nutty idea. Would look cool and be solar / battery compatible.

[Bus'n it]

A quick search on "Retro refrigerators" on Home Depots website came up with a few. The red one comes in black and is $265 while the white one looks really tall and is just under $1,000.

Sorry pics wont upload.

[s2mikon]

I used to drive a dump truck with a 450 red diamond 5 and 3 transmission. What a hoot. It ran like a diesel. Low end power up the hiney.

[52Flyer]

Awesome.
Thanks Guys,
Never thought about switching out the compressor.

[s2mikon]

I have been thinking about it for some time now. I have seen someone on u tube do it so I don't know. Has anybody tried it here yet? I have seen the compressors on flee bay. And the controllers.

[Sasquatters]

Originally Posted by 52Flyer

Is there someone that can suggest a good fridge manufacturer for an old style fridge? We are rebuilding a 1952 Western Flyer. I saw one in a posting on Instagram a while back but can't find where it was again.

Any Help is much appreciated.

Unique has some that you may like. None of them have auto defrost and their customer support is non existent.

[djdalfaro]

I actually bought a danfoss 12v BD35 compressor to do a chest freezer -> fridge conversion. It won't happen probably for 3-4 months though... sorry

[s2mikon]

Keep us posted. I want to do the same.