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Old 12-21-2020, 01:48 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Virginia (for now)
Posts: 15
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Navistar International 3300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 66
A few questions (getting ready to remove heat and a/c)

Heating :

I'm pretty sure I understand everything I need to do with removing the rear heater (we just need to pick up a u bend ) and I was wondering if anyone could confirm that the two valves pictured under the hood are what I need to turn off before moving forward? I assume once we're finished removing the heater we turn those back on?

Cooling :

I know the general consensus from folks is that we shouldn't get rid of the a/c but at the very least we intend to remove the rear one. I included pics. We have two working transair. What I am wondering here is how to go about removing them (hopefully) without damaging them so that someone else could use them. I know we potentially need to have someone drain the freon but I wasn't sure if that needs to be done if someone plans on using the units. (Also, if any of y'all are near VA and interested, hit us up )
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Old 12-28-2020, 02:07 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: WIMBERLEY, TX
Posts: 39
Year: 2002
Coachwork: AMTRAN
Chassis: INTERNATIONAL 3500 8 WINDOW
Engine: DT466 7.3 LITER
Hey Encryptedritual. I just pulled my back heater to remove the wood flooring under it and check for rust etc. Literally like 15 minutes ago. Just came inside to see if I could find a thread about it myself. Since I'm planning to reinstall it I MacGyver'd two plugs to insert into each line until I get all the mess cleaned up and them back installed. I believe if you're going to pull it permanently you're on the right track. Close both valves (don't run the bus w/them closed of course) get a bunch of towels, gloves, goggles, snorkel (ok slight exaggeration) and pull the heater out of the coolant loop...install your jump pipe tighten things up re-open your valves and start it up to check for leaks. You might also go ahead and cap off the electrical connections to the heater fans to avoid potential problems.
That should do the trick. You'll have a couple of holes in the floor that'll need plugging where the hoses came thru but that's cake right?
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Old 12-28-2020, 02:17 PM   #3
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
You definitely need to have an A/C technician recover the refrigerant before you can remove any part of the system.

When you say you are removing
The rear A/C what you are actually removing is the component called the Evaporator. Depending on the configuration you might have two condensers under the bus. If
You reduce the evaporators you might also reduce condenser. Your tech should be able to advise you.

If you get the right technician they might be able to abbreviate your AC in the same visit. Find one that is familiar with the make of system.
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Old 12-28-2020, 02:37 PM   #4
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Bluebird is. Series-connected heating system.. tuen the underhood valves off as you show those valcves, tuen off the valve next to the driver (if equipped)..



remove the rear heater.. yes you will flood the bus..

Loop the heater hoses coming out of the driver heater box up near the front.. if you simply cap them you will lose your front heat.



you showerd a picture of your right-front heater and not your rear heater.. you can remove that heater however it is really nice for keeping the door area warm.. I freeze driving my red bus in cold weather if i dont habve that right side heater turned on..




taking out the A/C is your choice.. sweat rags or ice cold A/C.. if your system has 2 compressors its pretty easy to pull the rear system and still keep the front one for driving.. no your camper A/C or minisplit wont keep you cool driving in hot summer weather.. just wont ..



most definitely you want someone to recover / recycle the refrigerant if you dont have the tools / know-how to properly do it.. refrigerant released improperly can and will burn you seriously.. and inhaling it can be fatal..



-Christopher
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Old 12-28-2020, 03:09 PM   #5
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,558
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
We didn't spill a drop. I parked my bus (Rear Engine)
nose down-hill, a$$-up.
Closed engine heater valves.
Partner steady with a bucket.
Removed only one hose from the firewall, engine side.
Lifted the other, still connected hose on the inside while partner held bucket in engine bay.
Then the other engine side hose.
Repeated interior hose raising.
Most of the line was empty before we disconnected the rear interior hose connections (which are high due to slope) and carried them, over my head out the front door, while still connected in the front. Gravity filled the bucket for us. No spills inside or out.
As far as a 'U-turn" to loop back to the engine. We used one clean section of hose from the inside by replacing the two old engine hoses which were connected to the firewall.

We have no heaters, just a driver defrost. Our lines traveled from the rear to the left of the drivers seat where they went back out, under the bus to the defroster beneath the dash. I guess the hose just passing thru, under that metal plate, is enough heat for a Florida bus.
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:33 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: WIMBERLEY, TX
Posts: 39
Year: 2002
Coachwork: AMTRAN
Chassis: INTERNATIONAL 3500 8 WINDOW
Engine: DT466 7.3 LITER
You're a genius! Mine is a TX bus so not too much need either but sometimes.... Good job!
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