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06-10-2020, 04:23 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,989
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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if you have ceiling space to run linesets then look into ceiling cassettes and multiples can be ran from one outdoor unit.
also pioneer brand is turning out to be alot cheaper and just as reliable as the top name brands.
the pressures required in you piping is decided by the manufactured specific to brand of equipment you by.
but for any brand and model you are looking at you can look at the specification sheet.
if you want rubber then hydraulic type is a definite.
to go copper yes the work hardening is a problem with soft copper but it can work by leaving small coils like they did on the old brake line systems or use hard copper and straight pipe it.
any refrigerant system has high pressures but the manufacturer of the system you buy is the one that decides the working pressure
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06-10-2020, 05:19 PM
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#22
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,437
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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I tried using original lines with mini split , couldn't take the pressure. I used solid copper, tied everything down no problems in 5 years.
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06-10-2020, 05:27 PM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 691
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223
if you have ceiling space to run linesets then look into ceiling cassettes and multiples can be ran from one outdoor unit.
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Be careful on that idea. ALL of the multi-head single outdoor units I have seen run on 220V. That can be done easily enough on 50 amp shore, but making that work on solar or genny power is much more expensive.
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06-10-2020, 05:30 PM
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#24
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 691
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa
I tried using original lines with mini split , couldn't take the pressure. I used solid copper, tied everything down no problems in 5 years.
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Didn't you put your front split unit between the frame rails in front of the front axle? I have an air tank and a bunch of hoses/lines collected there I would have to figure out. I don't see anywhere else underneath to mount the outdoor unit on mine without paying for the extra long lines. That's one of the main reasons I'm going to go with the 3 roof top nits.
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06-10-2020, 05:41 PM
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#25
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 80
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Use copper and run rubber lined straps. After you insulate the suction line ty wrap the high pressure line to the suction line. If you need to span more than 12" then use hard copper on the suction line to reduce movement. Using rubber lined straps aides in expansion and contraction of the lines.
Properly done copper is never a problem.
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06-10-2020, 05:45 PM
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#26
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,989
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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most mini splits require both lines to be insulated and cushion clamps are the way to secure them ridgid.
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06-10-2020, 06:19 PM
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#27
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Inverness FL
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Metrotrans
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 23440Lb 31pass
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What I love about our 12K Pioneer minisplit is how quiet it is ! and with 700 watts on the roof and 635 AH battery I can run it in ECO mode all day long . will ad on 200 watt to be able to run it in full power mode . super easy to install and $740.- delivered .
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06-10-2020, 07:39 PM
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#29
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 93
Year: 2000
Coachwork: AmTran RE
Chassis: Iternational
Engine: DT530E MD3060
Rated Cap: 80
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I am going to be using a duel mini-split system. One for the back of the bus and one for the front. I should be able to use them simultaneously or individually. They will be connected to one condenser somewhere in the middle of the bus. This will be nice because I can have just one of them on if I'm on either side and I don't have to worry about one of them reaching all the way to the other side and not cooling down enough.
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06-11-2020, 06:22 AM
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#30
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Inverness FL
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Metrotrans
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 23440Lb 31pass
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I like the dual minisplit idea , but is that 110 V or 240 V only ?
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06-11-2020, 06:31 AM
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#31
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndiW
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Id avoid any ac or heaters on kickstarter.
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06-11-2020, 06:38 AM
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#32
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,437
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackE
Didn't you put your front split unit between the frame rails in front of the front axle? I have an air tank and a bunch of hoses/lines collected there I would have to figure out. I don't see anywhere else underneath to mount the outdoor unit on mine without paying for the extra long lines. That's one of the main reasons I'm going to go with the 3 roof top nits.
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Yes, front unit is right behind the bumper. I was fortunate that area was wide open. With the standard length line I was able to route it around the windshield and go up the A pillar. My air tanks are behind the bumper and on the outside of frame on left side.
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06-11-2020, 07:13 AM
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#33
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Just south of Dallas.
Posts: 172
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 40' MVP-ER
Engine: Cat 3126
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APARRANTLY these mini splits convert ac to dc before they use the power??? Has any of our resident electrical gurus considered if it would be feasible to eliminate the dc to ac then back to dc?? You know, like bypass the conversion to ac and directly wire the dc to the mini split?
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06-11-2020, 08:24 AM
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#34
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 691
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mako
I am going to be using a duel mini-split system. One for the back of the bus and one for the front. I should be able to use them simultaneously or individually. They will be connected to one condenser somewhere in the middle of the bus. This will be nice because I can have just one of them on if I'm on either side and I don't have to worry about one of them reaching all the way to the other side and not cooling down enough.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 49roadie
I like the dual minisplit idea , but is that 110 V or 240 V only ?
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I was very interested in doing this as well, but every dual unit I could find runs on 220V. Not happening in my bus because I need to be able to use it while driving.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaymcquaid
APARRANTLY these mini splits convert ac to dc before they use the power??? Has any of our resident electrical gurus considered if it would be feasible to eliminate the dc to ac then back to dc?? You know, like bypass the conversion to ac and directly wire the dc to the mini split?
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I’ll have to look into this, sounds very promising. It would void warranty immediately, but so does installing in a moving vehicle.
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06-11-2020, 08:35 AM
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#35
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Inverness FL
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Metrotrans
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 23440Lb 31pass
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Yea ! 220 is a problem , but somebody said mini splits might be 12 volt / 110 V . very curious on that answer !
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06-11-2020, 09:28 AM
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#36
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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With the right inverter (split phase) you get both 110v and 220v outputs. My mini split is 220V and a high efficiency unit.
I think there are DC splits, but the most efficient AC splits might be more efficient than the DC ones currently available.
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06-11-2020, 05:55 PM
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#37
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 93
Year: 2000
Coachwork: AmTran RE
Chassis: Iternational
Engine: DT530E MD3060
Rated Cap: 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 49roadie
Yea ! 220 is a problem , but somebody said mini splits might be 12 volt / 110 V . very curious on that answer !
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My minisplit at home is 110. Didn't think about two together. It would be nice if they could be independently 110. Anyone else know?
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06-11-2020, 06:32 PM
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#38
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Freedom Field, New Mexico
Posts: 459
Year: 1998
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtrans
Engine: 444E
Rated Cap: 84 pas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 49roadie
Yea ! 220 is a problem , but somebody said mini splits might be 12 volt / 110 V . very curious on that answer !
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You can get mini splits up to 12000 BTU in 110. But 220 doesn't have to be a problem.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6000W-LF-PSW-Split-phase-power-inverter-DC-24v-AC-110V-220v-60HZ-/264570771769
They come in 12v,24v,and48v. I got both of my 24v 5KW pure sine wave inverters from this seller. They are hearty and do the job without breaking the bank.
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06-11-2020, 06:43 PM
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#39
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,363
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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I just bought a Pioneer 12K inverter minisplit with heat pump; the only place for the outdoor unit will be directly above the front axle between the frame rails, but that will require cutting an access hatch in the floor above it so I can drop it straight down instead of wrestling it into place from underneath. It seems that Pioneer minisplits are popular with the skoolie folk here and the BCM forum, so that's why I chose it. I may also put a small window A/C in the bedroom, but that's less important for now. I'll run them from my 2kW of solar.
John
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06-11-2020, 07:36 PM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Is this a good deal? I can't even figure out what these are, exactly, they seem to date from around 2015 and aren't available any more.
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/...131119945.html
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