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Old 06-10-2020, 04:23 PM   #21
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if you have ceiling space to run linesets then look into ceiling cassettes and multiples can be ran from one outdoor unit.
also pioneer brand is turning out to be alot cheaper and just as reliable as the top name brands.
the pressures required in you piping is decided by the manufactured specific to brand of equipment you by.
but for any brand and model you are looking at you can look at the specification sheet.
if you want rubber then hydraulic type is a definite.
to go copper yes the work hardening is a problem with soft copper but it can work by leaving small coils like they did on the old brake line systems or use hard copper and straight pipe it.
any refrigerant system has high pressures but the manufacturer of the system you buy is the one that decides the working pressure

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Old 06-10-2020, 05:19 PM   #22
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I tried using original lines with mini split , couldn't take the pressure. I used solid copper, tied everything down no problems in 5 years.
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Old 06-10-2020, 05:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
if you have ceiling space to run linesets then look into ceiling cassettes and multiples can be ran from one outdoor unit.
Be careful on that idea. ALL of the multi-head single outdoor units I have seen run on 220V. That can be done easily enough on 50 amp shore, but making that work on solar or genny power is much more expensive.
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Old 06-10-2020, 05:30 PM   #24
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I tried using original lines with mini split , couldn't take the pressure. I used solid copper, tied everything down no problems in 5 years.
Didn't you put your front split unit between the frame rails in front of the front axle? I have an air tank and a bunch of hoses/lines collected there I would have to figure out. I don't see anywhere else underneath to mount the outdoor unit on mine without paying for the extra long lines. That's one of the main reasons I'm going to go with the 3 roof top nits.
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Old 06-10-2020, 05:41 PM   #25
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Use copper and run rubber lined straps. After you insulate the suction line ty wrap the high pressure line to the suction line. If you need to span more than 12" then use hard copper on the suction line to reduce movement. Using rubber lined straps aides in expansion and contraction of the lines.

Properly done copper is never a problem.
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Old 06-10-2020, 05:45 PM   #26
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most mini splits require both lines to be insulated and cushion clamps are the way to secure them ridgid.
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Old 06-10-2020, 06:19 PM   #27
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What I love about our 12K Pioneer minisplit is how quiet it is ! and with 700 watts on the roof and 635 AH battery I can run it in ECO mode all day long . will ad on 200 watt to be able to run it in full power mode . super easy to install and $740.- delivered .
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:32 PM   #28
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Anyone try any of these: KINGTECUSA Split-Type 12v DC Power Air Conditioner https://kingtecusa.com/product/ktf-1/ The product is used in https://youtu.be/AuaLdoNILfw but is not currently available on Amazon.com. I contacted the closest listed dealer and he does not carry it. Similar product: https://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/ - I emailed them and their smallest product is about $5000. But it's 12V! Looks similar: 12V Compact Refrigeration Cooling Systems Air Conditioning Systems with Miniature Rotary Compressor - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QSFMQJZ/ - but only $729 Also looks similar - Product: Powerful Micro Air Conditioner (Pro version) https://www.rigidhvac.com/store/products/151800 - but only $650 To me these are better than a regular mini split because they're designed to be used in vehicles. Other random items which I wouldn't use but someone else might: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...ble-air-condit Evaporative cooler - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQRPR9Y/
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:39 PM   #29
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I am going to be using a duel mini-split system. One for the back of the bus and one for the front. I should be able to use them simultaneously or individually. They will be connected to one condenser somewhere in the middle of the bus. This will be nice because I can have just one of them on if I'm on either side and I don't have to worry about one of them reaching all the way to the other side and not cooling down enough.
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:22 AM   #30
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I like the dual minisplit idea , but is that 110 V or 240 V only ?
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndiW View Post
Anyone try any of these: KINGTECUSA Split-Type 12v DC Power Air Conditioner https://kingtecusa.com/product/ktf-1/ The product is used in https://youtu.be/AuaLdoNILfw but is not currently available on Amazon.com. I contacted the closest listed dealer and he does not carry it. Similar product: https://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/ - I emailed them and their smallest product is about $5000. But it's 12V! Looks similar: 12V Compact Refrigeration Cooling Systems Air Conditioning Systems with Miniature Rotary Compressor - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QSFMQJZ/ - but only $729 Also looks similar - Product: Powerful Micro Air Conditioner (Pro version) https://www.rigidhvac.com/store/products/151800 - but only $650 To me these are better than a regular mini split because they're designed to be used in vehicles. Other random items which I wouldn't use but someone else might: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...ble-air-condit Evaporative cooler - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQRPR9Y/
Id avoid any ac or heaters on kickstarter.
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:38 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackE View Post
Didn't you put your front split unit between the frame rails in front of the front axle? I have an air tank and a bunch of hoses/lines collected there I would have to figure out. I don't see anywhere else underneath to mount the outdoor unit on mine without paying for the extra long lines. That's one of the main reasons I'm going to go with the 3 roof top nits.
Yes, front unit is right behind the bumper. I was fortunate that area was wide open. With the standard length line I was able to route it around the windshield and go up the A pillar. My air tanks are behind the bumper and on the outside of frame on left side.
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:13 AM   #33
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APARRANTLY these mini splits convert ac to dc before they use the power??? Has any of our resident electrical gurus considered if it would be feasible to eliminate the dc to ac then back to dc?? You know, like bypass the conversion to ac and directly wire the dc to the mini split?
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:24 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mako View Post
I am going to be using a duel mini-split system. One for the back of the bus and one for the front. I should be able to use them simultaneously or individually. They will be connected to one condenser somewhere in the middle of the bus. This will be nice because I can have just one of them on if I'm on either side and I don't have to worry about one of them reaching all the way to the other side and not cooling down enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 49roadie View Post
I like the dual minisplit idea , but is that 110 V or 240 V only ?
I was very interested in doing this as well, but every dual unit I could find runs on 220V. Not happening in my bus because I need to be able to use it while driving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaymcquaid View Post
APARRANTLY these mini splits convert ac to dc before they use the power??? Has any of our resident electrical gurus considered if it would be feasible to eliminate the dc to ac then back to dc?? You know, like bypass the conversion to ac and directly wire the dc to the mini split?
I’ll have to look into this, sounds very promising. It would void warranty immediately, but so does installing in a moving vehicle.
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:35 AM   #35
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Yea ! 220 is a problem , but somebody said mini splits might be 12 volt / 110 V . very curious on that answer !
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Old 06-11-2020, 09:28 AM   #36
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With the right inverter (split phase) you get both 110v and 220v outputs. My mini split is 220V and a high efficiency unit.



I think there are DC splits, but the most efficient AC splits might be more efficient than the DC ones currently available.
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Old 06-11-2020, 05:55 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Yea ! 220 is a problem , but somebody said mini splits might be 12 volt / 110 V . very curious on that answer !
My minisplit at home is 110. Didn't think about two together. It would be nice if they could be independently 110. Anyone else know?
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:32 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 49roadie View Post
Yea ! 220 is a problem , but somebody said mini splits might be 12 volt / 110 V . very curious on that answer !
You can get mini splits up to 12000 BTU in 110. But 220 doesn't have to be a problem.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6000W-LF-PSW-Split-phase-power-inverter-DC-24v-AC-110V-220v-60HZ-/264570771769
They come in 12v,24v,and48v. I got both of my 24v 5KW pure sine wave inverters from this seller. They are hearty and do the job without breaking the bank.
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:43 PM   #39
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I just bought a Pioneer 12K inverter minisplit with heat pump; the only place for the outdoor unit will be directly above the front axle between the frame rails, but that will require cutting an access hatch in the floor above it so I can drop it straight down instead of wrestling it into place from underneath. It seems that Pioneer minisplits are popular with the skoolie folk here and the BCM forum, so that's why I chose it. I may also put a small window A/C in the bedroom, but that's less important for now. I'll run them from my 2kW of solar.

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Old 06-11-2020, 07:36 PM   #40
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Is this a good deal? I can't even figure out what these are, exactly, they seem to date from around 2015 and aren't available any more.

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/...131119945.html
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