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Old 03-28-2023, 01:31 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 48
Year: 2001
Engine: Cummins 5.9L
Dash modifications

Hey yall,

I was wondering if anyone has modified a FE Bluebird. I have a 2001 and considering modifying it so i can add a couple of aftermarket AC systems like this:
https://coldmasterinc.com/product/a-...-vans-campers/

i was wondering if anyone has pictures of whats behind there.

TIA!

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Old 03-28-2023, 06:30 PM   #2
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,831
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
ive never modified an FE bluebird dash for an underdash A/C.. but that system you linked is a completed mal-matched setup.. I run that same evaporator in my 1978 Superior but you need much more compressor than a Sanden 508.. and much more condensor.. you def wouldnt want to put that in front of your radiator.. that evaporator needs a REALLY GOOD liquid column to maintain cooling across the whole coil esp at lower RPMs..



for nostalgia im running a higher capacity York 210 compressor and it struggles wit hthat evaporator at low RPM.. I would run a Genuine Sanden SD7 enhanced.. im using 2 of these compressors in one of my other busses and I have no issues wit ha solid liquid column even at idle.. they come in different mounts and pulley styles to fit your needs..



compressor brackets for a medium duty 5.9 are likely going to be different typically than a pickup truck 5.9, be mindful of that when shopping..



condensor with that evaporator im running an ACT CS-2 dual fan condensor.. with engine heat and road heat its advantageous in a high load application like a bus to run a condensor with a good bit more capacity than your evaporator.. since I wanted that bus fully nostalgic (no visible skirt grilled) i run the underbody version and it works great..



that particular evaporator comes with a really powerful dual blower system..so powerful that on high speed the included switch is overloaded and will burn up (ask me how I know).. so I run a relay for the high speed blower and also run a relay for the compressor clutch with a flyback diode on the coil..



in my opinion its a great evaporator but that kit seems to lack in some of the rest of the parts...



its an easy unit to mount in an underdash configuration but doesnt have the static pressure to duct it out.. I did bump the TxV screw out about 1/2 turn to facilitate a little wider liquid flow.. it seemed at first like the flow was a tad lackluster .. but she cranks ice cold air now even in an old crazy leaky bus with a 392 under the hood..


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Old 03-28-2023, 06:35 PM   #3
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,831
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I should mention that i know the all american Front engine and I "*think*" the TC2000 also had an option for a factory in dash evaporator.. one of them came with dash vents already all the way across and there was a kit made to add an evaporator to utilize those vents for A/C.. I remember seeing it someplace.. ProAir LLC who I used to get most all of my A/C parts from has gone defunct and took with it ACT and frigiking who made all kinds of custom solutions.. stuff I used in 2 of my busses... so now I have to find a new supplier for it..
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Old 03-28-2023, 06:40 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 48
Year: 2001
Engine: Cummins 5.9L
Thanks for the info! I've read a lot of your posts but either I didn't comprehend enough (99% chance) or the general layout wouldn't work for my bus.

From what I've read in the southern states and smaller diesel motors you shouldn't obstruct the radiator or intercooler if at all possible because it'll start hitting the high end of normal operating temperatures.

I had a feeling most of the kit was undersized, aside from the blower based on the cfm. Do you know someone who could build/suggest parts "as a kit?" I can worry about the logistics of how to stick what where (that's what he said?) but the parts needed to not overwhelm components and burn them out quickly is my biggest concern.
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Old 03-28-2023, 06:45 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 48
Year: 2001
Engine: Cummins 5.9L
I do have a blower/defrost/melt my face off heater so I considered throwing money at a mechanic and begging them to make AC work... and I'd like to help/watch.

One of those you don't know what you don't know scenarios, except it's expensive and I don't want to mess up the brand new motor I had put in the bus.
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Old 03-28-2023, 08:49 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,831
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the all americans have a heater mode where the dash vents can blow but not the defroster.. you dont want to particularly blow A/C on the windshield.. esp at night.. it will fog the glass up on the outside in humid weather.. it is Nice however to have an A/C evaporator ahead of the heater core for rainy driving..


I built one of my busses such so I can dehumidify with the A/C compressor but still have warm air..


anyway making a kit.. that one gets tough since the manufacturer i got all mine from (except the evaporator in the superior) has gone under..



this is the condensor i used its a ACT CS2, there are others like it..



https://www.coachbusparts.com/part_a...condensers.php


it uses 2 #8 MOR fittings to attach to it.. the kit you referenced uses a different brand fittings but they chose the same line sizes I did for my build with that evaporator.. i didnt see how long the lengths are in the kit..



you would have to measure and determine a place to put your condensor under the bus.. you want it far enough back you dont pick up too much engine heat.. or plan to cut hole in the skirt and install it as a skirt unit so you suck air from the side of the bus and not underneath..



you also want to find a spot so it wont interfere with items for your conversion like plumbing or water tanks.. then you can scope out how you will route your hoses.. (I used a garden hose that I snaked around so I knew ballpark how much length of A/C hose to order.



compressor brackets - on a FE bus you'll likely need to find a Low mount bracket kit.. I think bracketry systems (unforetunately not cheap) makes one.. you camn contact APAIR.. they have one listed for a 6BT but doesnt mention the 24 valve.. doesnt meamn they dont have one.. you want a Sanden mount kit if you can.. otherwise the standard factory A/C installed by Trans/AIR(still in business) used a low mont kit with a GMC A6 style compressor instead of a sanden.. you would have no issues running that evaporator with an A6...



its hard for me to put together a kit / BOM for you without seeing the whole thing in person as bus A/C is a bit of a custom endeavor..
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Old 03-29-2023, 08:52 AM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 48
Year: 2001
Engine: Cummins 5.9L
I am perfectly fine adding or overbuilding a more robust system, living in Texas theres no such thing as an oversized air conditioner.
If its worth doing, its worth over doing.
-Mythbusters

My issue is everything is riveted in, even the front ones near the windshield, so once I start drilling them out theres no going back.
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Old 03-29-2023, 02:42 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,831
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
yeah that was typical of bluebird to spot weld or rivet together the metal duction.. but I thought you could get to the return side pretty easy.. is your bus a TC2000 or a All american FE? a couple pics of the front dash area might be helpful..



I drove my DEV bus to texas in 2020 during early August... that bus (a mainly stock bus) has 100,000+ BTU of A/C.. at 104 outside the best I could do inside was 74.. the only time ive ever not been as freezing as I want in that bus.. but was so much better than outside.. and not bad for non-tint windows and 100% stock floors, walls, ceilings..

both compressors stayed on 100% continuously
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