Fridges for buses

[gs1949]

Those two I posted the links to are actually fairly light. Duracell 6 volt go up from there.

Here's one that weighs 113 pounds and has 370 Ah. It's not a big battery in width and length, but it's 16.5 inches tall, and with the $36 core charge they're almost $300. I'm better off with the smaller ones.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli6v370s

[john61ct]

Well within a given brand and line/category, get the Ah per pond number, significantly **lower** energy density with lead usually means more robust and longer lasting.

And calculate the $ per Ah @12V to compare pricing.

Finally ask yourself, which can I physically move without injuring myself?

Form factor of the box is a factor, IMO low priority though, change that to accommodate the right choice, if the above differences make that worthwhile

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by john61ct

When the spiral wound AGM technology was developed by Enersys and they created Optimums, it was a much better quality product than in recent years since they sold the brand off to JCI.

JCI makes no batteries I'm aware of that I'd call true deep cycling.

https://marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/

Lifeline, Odyssey, Northstar all make excellent AGM batteries for that purpose, assuming you're in NA.

But not as good value as old-school FLA if that can be made to work for you.

The best battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, around $200 per 200+AH @12V pair from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club. Deka labeled same batts also sold at Lowes.

Otherwise avoid big box retail or automotive channels, do not order online, call the mfg for an outlet local to you.

Thanks for the link.

I am useing them first and foremost because I had them in my old camper and took them out and put them in the bus. So will keep them as long as they do what I need. Then decide what would be a good replacement. By the way did a quick search and do not find a life cycle rating on the optimas.

I am being much more careful with batteries then I used too, no more discharging to 10.5 volts or less at times, and useing better chargers and solar as well.

[Rivetboy]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I bought the Magic Chef 10.1cf from HD. I ran it a couple of days on the Kill-A-Watt. It averaged .014kwh, when the compressor kicks on it jumps to .50kwh. It sat at the front of the open gargage, so it saw 90+ a good amount of time. Mine is Black.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Ch...00WE/302245066

Thank you Marc

[Rivetboy]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Finally ask yourself, which can I physically move without injuring myself?

I can move LiPo 100AH 12V Batteries by myself all day long. The inverse of that is they lighten your wallet accordingly. My decision has been made to go LiPo.I have a couple of electric bikes and the batteries are fantastic. It will also help in the balance and weight distribution of my bus. Am planning the electric fridge also.

[Ronnie]

I like the idea of going to Lithium when it is time to get new batteries. Just feel I do not know enough about them yet.

[CMORGANSKOOL]

I have a Sanyo 3cu' that I bought at a yard sale for $5 it draws 1 amp at 120v or 120 watts and runs for about 4 hours a day when full of food or 480 watt hours. On a 100ah AGM battery that's about 40% depth of discharge or perfectly paired to the battery provided you have ample sun to charge it during the day.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by Rivetboy

I can move LiPo 100AH 12V Batteries by myself all day long. The inverse of that is they lighten your wallet accordingly. My decision has been made to go LiPo.I have a couple of electric bikes and the batteries are fantastic. It will also help in the balance and weight distribution of my bus. Am planning the electric fridge also.

Yes light weight is a good reason. But few owners think all the good reasons add up justify the risk of investing 7-10x the price.

And LFP is the only suitable lithium chemistry, forget LiPo, way too fire-prone for a mobile living context.

[farok]

Originally Posted by john61ct

And LFP is the only suitable lithium chemistry, forget LiPo, way too fire-prone for a mobile living context.

As someone not familiar with lithium batteries, what do LFP and LiPo stand for?

Thanks,
Chris

[CMORGANSKOOL]

LFP is LIfepo4 or Lithium Iron Phosphate the most friendly and stable substitute for lead acid batteries. I highly recommend them. You get 80-90% discharge and you get 10X more cycles out of them than a comparable lead acid battery. The best battery on the market with a Lifepo4 is Battleborn or Renogy
https://battlebornbatteries.com/?gcl...xoCBXUQAvD_BwE

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-lithiu...12-volt-100ah/

They run $800-1000 respectively but when you factor the life cycle they're actually significantly cheaper than lead acid over all considering you have to replace agm and lead acid after 5-600 cycles and Lifepo4 last 5-6000 cycles before losing 10% of their capacity.

Lipo is lithium polymer, and is really a good battery as long as you don't over or under discharge them. That's where the fire risk comes in. Lithium ion is the most unstable, but again tesla and a lot of other manufacturers use them successfully in vehicles without much problem as long as they're charged and discharged properly.

[john61ct]

Actually. . .

LiPo is not a specific chemistry just a packaging technology to minimize weight, RC drones, airplanes etc.

These days mostly an LCO variant, e.g. LiCoO2

Lithium-ion is the overall umbrella term, includes LFP, LTO, many many dozens of variants.

In 18650 cylindricals, again many dozens of LI chemistries, often NCM (NMC) LiNiMnCoO2 or NCA, LiNiCoAlO2

google for details.

Only LFP is safe to use in a nomadic living context.

Well LTO too, but hasn't taken off.

Both use very different voltages from the other LI chemistries.

[musigenesis]

I'm looking to buy a small chest freezer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/midea-WHS-129.../dp/B00MVVITWC (I've seen a cheaper one that is something like 16" wide but I can't remember the name of the brand, Afria or something like that) and hack it so it maintains fridge temperature instead of freezer temperature. Does anybody know what kind of amps/watts this kind of thing draws in fridge mode?

[gs1949]

Yeah, I am interested in this too. I have been looking into it for a while, although not much lately.

I'll hunt up the links in my large mess of bookmarks. You can use an external thermostat with a probe to stick in the freezer, there are at least 2 available from different manufacturers, to convert any size deep freeze into a fridge.

I want 2 small freezers, say maybe 3.5 and 5 cubic feet, or maybe 5 and 7, so I could switch between them according to whichever was needed most. Just in case of a road kill bonanza.

I will hunt up a few links in a bit and put them in a new post here.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by gs1949

Yeah, I am interested in this too. I have been looking into it for a while, although not much lately.

I'll hunt up the links in my large mess of bookmarks. You can use an external thermostat with a probe to stick in the freezer, there are at least 2 available from different manufacturers, to convert any size deep freeze into a fridge.

I want 2 small freezers, say maybe 3.5 and 5 cubic feet, or maybe 5 and 7, so I could switch between them according to whichever was needed most. Just in case of a road kill bonanza.

I will hunt up a few links in a bit and put them in a new post here.

Cool, thank you.

[farok]

Thanks! Lithium Iron Phosphate seems to be what everyone is recommending, so good to hear the alternatives and why they're not good. For my weekend warrior bus I just can't justify the cost right now though. It requires a new charger, as well as batteries. In the long run I'm considering it, but I need to be able to justify (i.e. hopefully the bus gets used more than I'm expecting!).

Chris

[gs1949]

I forgot that I deleted some of my older folders of bookmarks, and of course what I was looking for was in one that got deleted.

So I looked a bit while my supper is in the oven. I only found one controller. I included 2 articles about using that controller because they also contain general info.

I know I found at least 2 controllers, and I think it might have been 3, when I looked a couple of years ago. So I will look a little more later.

Amazon's Choice
Johnson Controls A19AAT-2C Freezer Temperature Controller (D132)
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Contr.../dp/B07GPY4914

An article worth reading, most specifically about the above controller.
https://www.rv-boondocking-adventure...onversion.html

Another article specifically about the Johnson Controls controller sold by Amazon
https://www.builditsolar.com/Project...Conversion.htm

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by gs1949

I forgot that I deleted some of my older folders of bookmarks, and of course what I was looking for was in one that got deleted.

So I looked a bit while my supper is in the oven. I only found one controller. I included 2 articles about using that controller because they also contain general info.

I know I found at least 2 controllers, and I think it might have been 3, when I looked a couple of years ago. So I will look a little more later.

Amazon's Choice
Johnson Controls A19AAT-2C Freezer Temperature Controller (D132)
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Contr.../dp/B07GPY4914

An article worth reading, most specifically about the above controller.
https://www.rv-boondocking-adventure...onversion.html

Another article specifically about the Johnson Controls controller sold by Amazon
https://www.builditsolar.com/Project...Conversion.htm

Thanks, sounds like it is indeed very good from an energy consumption standpoint. I wish I had hit Harbor Freight yesterday for some of those $10 solar panels. I've been meaning to get a freezer and some solar gear and get a head start on learning that stuff in advance of putting it in my bus.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by gs1949

I forgot that I deleted some of my older folders of bookmarks, and of course what I was looking for was in one that got deleted.

So I looked a bit while my supper is in the oven. I only found one controller. I included 2 articles about using that controller because they also contain general info.

I know I found at least 2 controllers, and I think it might have been 3, when I looked a couple of years ago. So I will look a little more later.

Amazon's Choice
Johnson Controls A19AAT-2C Freezer Temperature Controller (D132)
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Contr.../dp/B07GPY4914

An article worth reading, most specifically about the above controller.
https://www.rv-boondocking-adventure...onversion.html

Another article specifically about the Johnson Controls controller sold by Amazon
https://www.builditsolar.com/Project...Conversion.htm

I used that Johnson Controls controller for years on an upright freezer/kegerator conversion. It keeps temperature right on the money.

I bought a Magic Chef freezer a couple weeks ago and noticed that it comes with a drain hole at the bottom front and thought that would be a perfect way to feed the thermistor into the freezer for that application.

[gs1949]

So I've looked a little more. Amazon has others. More than when I looked at this a couple of years ago. I haven't read reviews yet.

Refrigerator or Freezer Thermostat (Temperature Controller)
https://www.amazon.com/Refrigerator-...dp/B000EXROSE/

And another that's a little cheaper and very versatile.
Inkbird ITC308 Freezer Thermostat Heating Cooling Plug Temperature Controller Outlet 110V 1200W Digital Temp Control Greenhouse Aquarium Heater Cooler Reptile Brewing Fermentation Kegerator Probe
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Therm...dp/B015E2UFGM/

And a newer model by Johnson Controls
Johnson Controls A421ABG-02C A421 Series Electronic Temperature Control with Pre Wired Power Cord, -40 to 212 Degree F Temperature Range
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Contr...dp/B01IWIZJHA/

[gs1949]

@Danjo, putting the thermistor through the drain hole should work, unless it's too big. But I think doing a little careful surgery to the gasket where the lid rests should work just fine.