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Old 07-05-2021, 06:05 PM   #21
Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 15,194
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
love the ramp idea thats a great one!!!

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Old 07-05-2021, 08:28 PM   #22
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,707
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
i replaced one of my rooftops with an dometic 13k unit. the old unit was ungodly heavy. 2 of us did our best to heave ho it as far as we could off the roof.
the new replacement was considerably lighter, but still huge and awkward. we man handled it up, my friend had it on his head going up the ladder, i was right
behind and balanced the AC while he held the ladder.

that ramp looks sweet..... i'd do it that way.
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Old 07-05-2021, 09:09 PM   #23
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 348
Coachwork: International Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
Originally Posted by Bus'n it View Post
Thanks for the ideas guys! Chris, the hatches have been fitted with Marine skylights. The Furrion units are seriously wide. I am not far off in the weight department. 160lbs and being 51 make for a less than ideal weight handler...

The ramp idea looks like a feasible method and should work perfect. Did you do anything to reinforce the bus roof metal or just go with it as is? I was thinking of putting in square metal tube but that may not allow the roof metal to conform if I did that ahead of installing the units. Before I do anything, I need to figure out what roof paint/sealant is best that would not allow dirt pickup.
I reinforced the roof with two considerations:
I spanned across the ribs using a 16g patch, 28.5"x30", a healthy overlap for the 24"sq hole, room for two beads of Dynatron. Also, secured using 64 rivets, 40 of which are center of the ribs.

I then repurposed the factory ehatch supports, which also span across two ribs each. For these I tightened the spacing to match the wood frame. While it was temporarily clamped flush/square with the hole, I marked/drilled the ribs, & doubled the number of screws used to support the factory hatch.

I also left a 3/16" gap between the steel supports and roof skin. Only the wood is squeezed tight to the roof & AC. The steel supports the wood, & indirectly the roof. PL Loktite S30 between the wood & roof.

Frederick Douglass:
"If there is no struggle, there is no progress."
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Old 07-06-2021, 09:40 AM   #24
Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 572
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Blue Bird All American
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
I will be cutting two new holes for the A/C's since I put in large marine hatches over the emergency holes. Thinking I may set the a/c unit up top close to one rib and then weld in steel for additional brace to keep the existing roof sheetmetal from flexing. I thought of doubling up on the steel too. At this point I need to decide what I am going to coat the roof with first that doesn't pick up dirt. That said, the AZ summer heat is in full swing so much work topside will not happen unless we get some cooler days. Cooler days means rain so neither mix well on bus construction!

Found my Bus at AAAbus in Phx!
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Old 07-06-2021, 09:59 AM   #25
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 348
Coachwork: International Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
Maximizing usable man hours, was our reason to fan, shade, tint, insulate & AC first. I wish we had a parked next to a swimming pool.
Frederick Douglass:
"If there is no struggle, there is no progress."
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Old 07-16-2021, 03:56 PM   #26
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Tampa Fl
Posts: 46
Year: 1989
Coachwork: MCI 96A3
Engine: DD 8V92TA
Originally Posted by joshrobertson1 View Post
Peter - I love the idea of having both. Do you run the mini split while you drive? Im over near Cocoa Beach, and am just starting on my bus. Came with no factory AC, so I need some cool air! Id love to come check your bus out sometime.

We have the Mother of all generators, a 20KW Powertech, so we run the generator and Both The Mini Split and the rooftop Coleman and the Refrigerator and a few other things while we are driving.

If you are in the Tampa area message me, we would be happy to show you the Bus.

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Old 07-16-2021, 05:06 PM   #27
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 975
Year: 1999
It would be my opinion that putting the a/c unit on the roof is not ideal.
It adds a lot of weight exactly where you don't want it,
and it puts the condensor and compressor right in the sun where it has to shed heat.
And also provides a source of water leaks too.
I also find it right where you don't want it where it hangs down just a bit to hit your head on it if tall. At minimum, I would countersink the controls so they don't go below the ceiling line.

I am going to be removing mine from the MH roof. I think we may put it on the 'man shed' in our backyard if nobody buys it.
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