RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-22-2020, 07:07 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 661
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Hydronic heat from the engine.

I plan on chasing warm weather so not much cold climate time is in my future. If I get too cold while parked, I'll use electric space heaters just long enough to get packed up and hit the road for warmer weather. I know the need for defrost and likely warm air blowing up front is a real need. I removed the original 3 heaters in the back because they are too big and way too loud, and I don't plan on ever needing that much heat.

My idea is to run coolant from the original in and out at the back, but run through pex in the floor up to the front and tie into the original heat and defrost. I can shut off the coolant flow with the valves in the back during hot weather. If it's cool enough we need heat at the front, then it should be cool enough that we will enjoy the heat from the floor.

I scanned through 10 pages in this heating & cooling section and read everything I found on the subject. There are two threads in particular with a great deal of info in them, and I think I'm on the right track here.

Anybody have any advice or see any problems with going this route?
JackE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2020, 08:30 PM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lebanon, Indiana
Posts: 619
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Winnebago
Chassis: Ford F53
Engine: Ford Triton V-10
Rated Cap: currently 2
So if I'm understanding correctly, you're expecting radiant heat from pipes routed under the floor to be sufficient just long enough to set course for warmer climates? I think your toes will keep from freezing but I don't think you can expect the cabin temperature in general to be comfortable. I can understand removing the old heaters but not sure electric space heaters are the most efficient way to achieve comfort as it'll be a large power demand relative to the level of comfort. Also if you're not carrying LP for cooking that could also be tasked for heating, there is also a diesel burning furnace option that uses little power, burns a gallon or so of fuel per night, and doesn't require idling your engine to achieve heat or keep the batteries charged for space heaters. Even if your goal is to stay ahead of the cold, I guess if it were me I'd rather have it and not need it than be caught by surprise and not have it just my $0.02
Sehnsucht is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2020, 08:47 PM   #3
Bus Nut
 
T-Bolt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 259
Year: 2003
Engine: DT530
Rated Cap: 84
PEX is max rated at 200 degrees. Your coolant will exceed that. Only run coolant through hoses rated for it.
__________________
https://eternitybus.com
T-Bolt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2020, 08:55 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 14,120
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
200 degree floors is way too hot for most finish flooring materials too...



if it were me i'd do closed loop heat exchanger floor heat and just run coolant lines up to the front heaters for road-heat.. you would use a liquid-liquid heat exchanger so you could manage how warm the floors get..



-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×