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Old 09-20-2016, 09:50 PM   #21
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I checked out 4 dogwood stoves, very nice. Cost to ship to me is $$$ (converting Canadian dollars to United States makes it even worse)

I found this company relatively close.
http://www.canvastentshop.ca/index.php

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Old 09-20-2016, 10:39 PM   #22
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Wood stoves look cool in a bus! But, I have absolutely no idea how to tend a fire. I've only seen snow 3 or 4 times.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:15 PM   #23
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Wood stoves look cool in a bus! But, I have absolutely no idea how to tend a fire. I've only seen snow 3 or 4 times.
When you're cold.....

You learn fast!
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Old 09-27-2016, 03:43 AM   #24
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I have been reading about wood stoves. Tent stoves are no a good thing permanently installed when it comes to insurance. just a heads up
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:10 AM   #25
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If bolting a steel stove to the floor should I still pour cement? This is something I'd rather be safer than sorry with but the cement is a hood chunk of weight
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:21 AM   #26
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You don't need to pour cement for the hearth. You can use fire rated cement board and air gaps. Much lighter...
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:26 AM   #27
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And...never use conventional Portland for any situation where the heat may get above about 200 degrees. Fireplaces, chimneys and such require the use of special "refractory" cement which is rated to 2000 degrees to handle the heat. Regular Portland will crack apart and even sometimes explode.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:40 AM   #28
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If I have an air gap and fire rated cement board under a 200lb wood stove that I bolt tight to the floor I'm thinking the board would crack? I will only do air gaps on the walls. The floor is the spot in qiestion. Can I bolt the wood stove to the floor without that stuff cracking out? I will have 2ft by 2.5 in angle iron that it sits on. Will that displace the weight enough to avoid wearing that fire rated cement board?
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:46 AM   #29
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Fire rated cement board should be fine as long as the weight of the legs doesn't punch through from bouncing around. Since most wood stoves have a fairly small footprint, placing or even welding pads under the bottoms of the feet to spread out the load might be a good idea. Just a thought.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:07 AM   #30
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Yep, cement board should be fine as long as you distribute the weight enough. Luckily my stove has a pedestal under it so it will get bolted straight through our granite slab hearthstone and floor without worries about weight distribution... I'm installing it this week so I'll try to get some pics of the hearth/heat-shield/flue and all that good stuff.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:30 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
Here's Don's back story...
About Us - Four Dog Stove Co

Read the 5 items below the stove:
Three Dog DX Camp Stove - Four Dog Stove Co


He's got some field testing YouTube videos out there... His enthusiasm convinced me that him and his family put their passion in their product!
There's probably some YouTube links at his homepage, but I'm rocking an iPhone
What makes these "tent stoves" vs. regular wood stoves? Are they safe indoors? I noticed it looks like they are just single wall boxes with no lining of any kind. I like the price and functionality though.
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:02 PM   #32
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A tent stove is going to be a much thinner walled stove. Typically made of sheet metal rather than 1/4"+ steel plate. I looked into using a smaller tent style stove, but found a nice englander pedestal stove locally for less than a hundred bucks. It's waaaay heavier than a tent stove but it's lined with firebrick also. My reasoning was that since it is thicker steel with the brick it will retain heat longer than a thin walled tent stove and it also has the bonus of being an epa listed stove that is approved for install in mobile homes so I guess that adds a little piece of mind. I'm also going to add a secondary burn system to it to produce a cleaner burn. Not sure if a tent stove would hold up to that...
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:13 PM   #33
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Awesome! Thanks guys
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:52 AM   #34
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I use to get slate from old pool tables to use as high temperature soldering table work.

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Old 10-11-2016, 03:48 PM   #35
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I'm looking at the small Logwood stove from US Stove. Rated at 900 SqFt and 55000 BTU. How long of a chimney pipe do most people install on the outside of the bus? I was thinking of having a section of pipe that I could remove and replace with a cap for travel. Or would it be better to just penetrate the roof by six to eight inches with the additional height for the cap making it about twelve inches total.
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:02 PM   #36
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I'm looking at the small Logwood stove from US Stove. Rated at 900 SqFt and 55000 BTU. How long of a chimney pipe do most people install on the outside of the bus? I was thinking of having a section of pipe that I could remove and replace with a cap for travel. Or would it be better to just penetrate the roof by six to eight inches with the additional height for the cap making it about twelve inches total.
at least 15' total from the stove is best. the less the pipe the less the draft going up.
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:36 AM   #37
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at least 15' total from the stove is best. the less the pipe the less the draft going up.
Thanks Dave, I doesn't seem practical then to install a wood stove in a bus that would be mobile. You would have to remove a significant amount of pipe during each trip. The biggest issue to that would be the supports on a pipe that long.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:05 AM   #38
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It takes literally two minutes to pull the pipe and stick a cap in the hole before you're on the road... Just sayin...
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:35 PM   #39
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My chimney is around 8'. While not a perfect install, it works just fine with our small stove. Before opening the wood stove door I open the intake air fully to get it burning as hot as possible to increase draft a bit. If I open it when it's burning cooler I sometimes get a small cloud of smoke wafting out the door.

I used Selkirk's twist-lock pellet stove pipe for the 5' extension on the bus roof. That way it stays on nice and tight and is easy to pop off.


It holds tight enough to stay on when cruising down the road at moderate speeds Not advisable, but sometime you forget about the pre-trip checklist!

You can see more of my woodstove install in my build page, which is posted as my signature.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:12 PM   #40
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My chimney is around 8'. While not a perfect install, it works just fine with our small stove. Before opening the wood stove door I open the intake air fully to get it burning as hot as possible to increase draft a bit. If I open it when it's burning cooler I sometimes get a small cloud of smoke wafting out the door.

I used Selkirk's twist-lock pellet stove pipe for the 5' extension on the bus roof. That way it stays on nice and tight and is easy to pop off.


It holds tight enough to stay on when cruising down the road at moderate speeds Not advisable, but sometime you forget about the pre-trip checklist!

You can see more of my woodstove install in my build page, which is posted as my signature.
Thanks for the reply. Your build page is awesome, so much great information. I like the idea of the twist lock and will check this out.
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