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Old 04-29-2019, 09:38 PM   #1
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Lp regulator questions.

Hello all! Hope everyone is doing well. I have a couple questions and it would be really neat if someone can point me in the right direction or tell me on here. So, I just completed the black pipe for the LP system. We have two tanks and a flame king dual tank regulator. I have ran black pipe up in to the bus and to three t's that now have shut of valves on them. We have pressurized the system and inspected for leaks with the shops stand up compressor and we are gravy all the way to the valves by spraying soapy water on the fittings all. At first my last valve was leaking, but a couple more tight turns with the pipe wrench and it went away. So ..

First question. Is that a sufficient test for the system? The system Held with no leaks at 150+ psi of air ..??

Second question. Do I need a regulator now before each appliance?? We have an Excel ventless water heater, small two burner cooktop. And a norcold 6 cubic feet fridge. Just go connecting hose from valve to appliance?? Or regular first?

Thanks in advance for anyone time in reading and replying. I'll attach some pictures of the system. Keep in mind I do have gas rated valevs at the end of each tee now.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:52 PM   #2
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I think you'll find all those appliances work off near the same pressures and the regulator can be mounted at the tank before the manifold. Read the specs on each appliance, it should tell you the required pressure.
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:43 PM   #3
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Propane pressure in the tanks can be over 300 psi but the pressure downstream of the regulator will be around .5 psi. Your test at 150 psi is a real good test. Most appliances want the regulated pressure, not full tank pressure.


When I was troubleshooting a problem in my propane system I was able to plug a hose on the regulated side with electrical tape.
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:12 PM   #4
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I think you'll find all those appliances work off near the same pressures and the regulator can be mounted at the tank before the manifold. Read the specs on each appliance, it should tell you the required pressure.
This is correct. As long as your regulator at the tanks is supplying the correct pressure, you will be all set.

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Originally Posted by roach711 View Post
Propane pressure in the tanks can be over 300 psi but the pressure downstream of the regulator will be around .5 psi. Your test at 150 psi is a real good test. Most appliances want the regulated pressure, not full tank pressure.


When I was troubleshooting a problem in my propane system I was able to plug a hose on the regulated side with electrical tape.
Yeah, .5psi is the norm, it is roughly equal to 14" of water (IWC) which is often what your appliances will require as an inlet pressure. I normally test my black iron gas piping systems at 5psi, sometimes 10psi for inspection depending on what test gauge setup I am using. 150psi is murderous overkill. Sch 40 steel piping is rated to over 1,000psi working pressure so your fine to test at 150psi, but it really isn't required.
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Old 04-30-2019, 06:00 AM   #5
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Really appreciate the input! Guess we went overboard on the testing lol. But that's really all I was wanting to know. Now I'll get some connecting hoses to finish it up. Any recommendations on connecting hoses for the appliances?? We have 3/8 flare at the end of each valve and appliance already. Thanks for the help. 😎
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Old 04-30-2019, 10:42 AM   #6
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How are you going to vent the hot exhaust from your water heater? Right now it seems to vent inside under a wood cabinet?
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Old 04-30-2019, 11:54 AM   #7
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How are you going to vent the hot exhaust from your water heater? Right now it seems to vent inside under a wood cabinet?

Jack


X2

I have the same unit and I added a heat shield above mine, even with a couple feet of clearance. The heat out o the top is intense.
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Old 05-01-2019, 05:05 AM   #8
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I decided to go with this model. Under the impression that it did not need to have it's own vent. I understand that it may need a little more space or a shield built of some sort. Now that I need to vent my ventless water heater... How do you guys recommend going about this. I understand it will put off some heat. But I don't think it will be enough heat to cause a fire... Any suggestions? I can put a little vent fan in the side of the bus there..??
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Old 05-01-2019, 05:19 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
How are you going to vent the hot exhaust from your water heater? Right now it seems to vent inside under a wood cabinet?
Jack
I was in belief that this heater needs no venting. I do agree it may be too close to the wood. I did not realize that was going to create a danger. Now I am thinking of ways to overcome this barrier. I am going to check and see if I have enough tmroom to put it on wall behind the fridge. That way it can vent out of the roof along with the fridge. Do you think that is a good option? And if it didn't fit there.. where would my options lead me!? 😬 Back to the drawing board for a little.
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
X2

I have the same unit and I added a heat shield above mine, even with a couple feet of clearance. The heat out o the top is intense.
I guessed I took the ventless thing a little too far . Lol I'm going to rethink it and make it a bit safer. Maybe try to fit it behind fridge or under the countertop sink area.. thanks you guys for pointing it out
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Old 05-01-2019, 11:45 AM   #11
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Glad to see you rethinking this. I'm sure you'll come up with something both safe and serviceable.

From the "Lots of ways to skin a cat file" I'll clutter your thread with how I skinned the cat.

I decided to vent the heater exhaust out one of the rear 1/4 windows .
.

I made up a floor air inlet screen and a double layered exhaust vent to direct the fumes out the former window.
.

.

Then I made an air tight metal housing to cover the entire contraption so I could be sure no cabin air was being used and no products of combustion could mix with cabin air.
.

.

I relocated the heater on/off switch to the face of the cover. I also added a recirculating water circuit to assure truly instant hot water but that should be a topic for another discussion.
Jack
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
I made up a floor air inlet screen and a double layered exhaust vent to direct the fumes out the former window.


Then I made an air tight metal housing to cover the entire contraption so I could be sure no cabin air was being used and no products of combustion could mix with cabin air.

Just out of curiosity why did you build this contraption to pull the combustion air from under the bus? Is that floor vent large enough to pull enough combustion air for the BTU rating of that TWH?

I know it sounds easier said than done and would need to be in good weather but why not just open a couple of windows in that area? Of course I'm assuming you have windows or vents that can be opened.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
Glad to see you rethinking this. I'm sure you'll come up with something both safe and serviceable.

From the "Lots of ways to skin a cat file" I'll clutter your thread with how I skinned the cat.

I decided to vent the heater exhaust out one of the rear 1/4 windows .
.

I made up a floor air inlet screen and a double layered exhaust vent to direct the fumes out the former window.
.

.

Then I made an air tight metal housing to cover the entire contraption so I could be sure no cabin air was being used and no products of combustion could mix with cabin air.
.

.

I relocated the heater on/off switch to the face of the cover. I also added a recirculating water circuit to assure truly instant hot water but that should be a topic for another discussion.
Jack
That's a neat set up you have built there! I am rethinking this and have done a good bit of extensive researching. I believe I have a good plan of action. This weekend is going to be very productive. Thanks for Input.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravelingTales View Post
Hello all! Hope everyone is doing well. I have a couple questions and it would be really neat if someone can point me in the right direction or tell me on here. So, I just completed the black pipe for the LP system. We have two tanks and a flame king dual tank regulator. I have ran black pipe up in to the bus and to three t's that now have shut of valves on them. We have pressurized the system and inspected for leaks with the shops stand up compressor and we are gravy all the way to the valves by spraying soapy water on the fittings all. At first my last valve was leaking, but a couple more tight turns with the pipe wrench and it went away. So ..

First question. Is that a sufficient test for the system? The system Held with no leaks at 150+ psi of air ..??

Second question. Do I need a regulator now before each appliance?? We have an Excel ventless water heater, small two burner cooktop. And a norcold 6 cubic feet fridge. Just go connecting hose from valve to appliance?? Or regular first?

Thanks in advance for anyone time in reading and replying. I'll attach some pictures of the system. Keep in mind I do have gas rated valevs at the end of each tee now.
A "2 stage regulator set at an 11" water column" at the tank should sort the whole system. Nothing else needed.
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:27 PM   #15
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A "2 stage regulator set at an 11" water column" at the tank should sort the whole system. Nothing else needed.
you should only need the one regulator as it comes off the tank - one large enough to allow the needed flow of propane to supply all appliances you may have running at one time
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:56 PM   #16
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Consti2ion, as I pointed out before describing my contraption there are many ways to skin a cat. As to the inlet and outlet opening size, both are larger in area than the actual inlet and outlet size of the heater. The heater itself becomes the air flow restrictor just as it would if I'd hung the unit on the outside of the bus. The system is neat and tidy, yet easily serviceable. It works perfectly (and has for a number of years) and I never need worry about carbon monoxide poisoning or forgetting to close a window when it rains.
Jack
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyInTN View Post
A "2 stage regulator set at an 11" water column" at the tank should sort the whole system. Nothing else needed.
Thanks for your response! 😎
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:53 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Sleddgracer View Post
you should only need the one regulator as it comes off the tank - one large enough to allow the needed flow of propane to supply all appliances you may have running at one time
Awesome, sounds like I'm ready to attach appliances!
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:01 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
Consti2ion, as I pointed out before describing my contraption there are many ways to skin a cat. As to the inlet and outlet opening size, both are larger in area than the actual inlet and outlet size of the heater. The heater itself becomes the air flow restrictor just as it would if I'd hung the unit on the outside of the bus. The system is neat and tidy, yet easily serviceable. It works perfectly (and has for a number of years) and I never need worry about carbon monoxide poisoning or forgetting to close a window when it rains.
Jack
that contraption looks to be very nice and functionally great! I am going to improve on what I have planned on this water heater. I am moving it to the side of the fridge wall and may try to funnel the air from the water heater, into the box being built to vent the fridge. After a bunch of reading I have found many different review on my heater particularly. If I at least get it out from under that shelve and under the sink area with a good 10 extra inches of clearance from the top of the heater, from what I have now. I should be ok under there. Of course that is if I don't come up with a way to do my first plan of action. Either way it's being moved.. thanks again!
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