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06-19-2019, 07:55 PM
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#21
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 74
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 (3904 RE)
Engine: Cummins 8.3TA
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Wouldn't I want to pull air from the garage and vent it outside? I still like the idea of mounting it against the garage wall.
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Yes, you would want to exhaust hot air outside of the vehicle, otherwise it is just going to heat up the enclosed space, and some of that will get into the rest of your rig eventually.
You probably don't even need an intake fan. If you can seal up the exhaust side of the condenser unit well enough, and if you have enough intake space, it will vent itself, plus help keep the enclosed space closer to outside ambient temps. I won't say the same temp as outside, because the unit itself will radiate some heat that doesn't get blown out. And the seals don't have to be super tight, just enough to make the path of least resistance for the hot air be the outside. Having a screened intake about the same size as your exhaust should be fine, the screen being to catch whatever may be floating in the air stream before it gets wrapped around your fan blades. Screened windows would work fine, or you can make an intake if you want.
-S
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06-19-2019, 08:14 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synestine
Yes, you would want to exhaust hot air outside of the vehicle, otherwise it is just going to heat up the enclosed space, and some of that will get into the rest of your rig eventually.
You probably don't even need an intake fan. If you can seal up the exhaust side of the condenser unit well enough, and if you have enough intake space, it will vent itself, plus help keep the enclosed space closer to outside ambient temps. I won't say the same temp as outside, because the unit itself will radiate some heat that doesn't get blown out. And the seals don't have to be super tight, just enough to make the path of least resistance for the hot air be the outside. Having a screened intake about the same size as your exhaust should be fine, the screen being to catch whatever may be floating in the air stream before it gets wrapped around your fan blades. Screened windows would work fine, or you can make an intake if you want.
-S
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It's a 7.5' x 7.5' closed room, where does it draw its intake air from? The only loose area would be around the pocket door, so it would be sucking that cabin air out. The unit fits snuggly against the outside wall. The screen vent would be on the bus body to keep debris from entering the exhaust. Not too worried about the fins on the unit inside, it'll be under a bench. A matching vent on both sides would do the trick, one intake, one exhaust.
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06-19-2019, 09:32 PM
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#23
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 74
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 (3904 RE)
Engine: Cummins 8.3TA
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
It's a 7.5' x 7.5' closed room, where does it draw its intake air from? The only loose area would be around the pocket door, so it would be sucking that cabin air out. The unit fits snuggly against the outside wall. The screen vent would be on the bus body to keep debris from entering the exhaust. Not too worried about the fins on the unit inside, it'll be under a bench. A matching vent on both sides would do the trick, one intake, one exhaust.
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From anywhere it can get it, that's why I mentioned using windows or cutting an intake, but screening the intake keeps the entire area much cleaner, since all the dandelion, cottonwood, and chinese elm seeds get caught in the screen. Things may get dirtier though, since pollen and dirt will make it through the screen and into your enclosed space. If the condenser unit fits snugly, you won't need to do much sealing to keep it from blowing hot air back into the enclosed space. And the fins will be fine for a while until they build up dirt and pollen on them and need a cleaning. And yes, having the intake and exhaust opposite each other is a good idea as well.
-S
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06-20-2019, 04:07 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synestine
And the fins will be fine for a while until they build up dirt and pollen on them and need a cleaning. And yes, having the intake and exhaust opposite each other is a good idea as well.
-S
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How much will the build up be if it's taking air from the clean garage?
I decided to move the unit to the passenger side for ease of plumbing the lines. I'll cut a round hole through the side of the bus the same size as the circle in the unit. I'll add a tighter mesh SS screen on the inside and mount the unit grill on the outside.
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06-20-2019, 04:19 PM
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#25
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Hey marc, ever tried cleaning an air conditioner window unit out? All kinds of gunk gets in them, the blades of the fan have to be cleaned, pretty nasty insides, rust, mineral buildup too.
Thinking yours will get all that stuff, spiders, and wouldn't be surprised if it sucked in diesel fumes once in a while coating it black all over.
You got me thinking when you talked about flipping the condenser over for mounting. Wouldn't the fan be reversed? Try it out and see.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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06-20-2019, 04:37 PM
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#26
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 74
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 (3904 RE)
Engine: Cummins 8.3TA
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
How much will the build up be if it's taking air from the clean garage?
I decided to move the unit to the passenger side for ease of plumbing the lines. I'll cut a round hole through the side of the bus the same size as the circle in the unit. I'll add a tighter mesh SS screen on the inside and mount the unit grill on the outside.
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Build up will be quite a bit less, but unless there's airflow into the enclosed space, you'll end up hurting your efficiency. A 7.5x7.5x7' enclosed space is just under 400 cubic feet. Your blower will likely run though that in a few minutes. Then the air pressure will be low enough that it will suck air through any opening it can, including through any crack between your garage and living space, and back through your exhaust vent.
If you want to do this less expensively, I would make some frames to closely cover a few windows on the other side of the bus, and cut down a plastic evaporator cooler pad to fit in the frames (the sponge kind, not the fiber kind). That way when it starts sucking air, the path of least resistance is through the windows and the pads catch most of the dust and pollen. Larger debris can be brushed off the outside of the pads, and the dust and pollen can be hosed out as needed. You'll want a little more surface area than the exhaust size, due to the airflow restrictions in the pads and to keep from developing lower air pressure I mentioned. Bonus is to make them removable for travel and weather.
The more expensive option is to cut an intake. And make a channel through the garage. I wouldn't want to do that, but it's an option. It will keep the garage cleaner but it's a lot of work and a lot of space.
-S
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06-20-2019, 04:44 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
You got me thinking when you talked about flipping the condenser over for mounting. Wouldn't the fan be reversed? Try it out and see.
John
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Rethink this and tell me of you want me to reply?
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06-20-2019, 04:48 PM
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#28
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Rethink this and tell me of you want me to reply?
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If you flip it over which way does it blow?
__________________
Question everything!
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06-20-2019, 04:56 PM
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#29
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synestine
Build up will be quite a bit less, but unless there's airflow into the enclosed space, you'll end up hurting your efficiency. A 7.5x7.5x7' enclosed space is just under 400 cubic feet. Your blower will likely run though that in a few minutes. Then the air pressure will be low enough that it will suck air through any opening it can, including through any crack between your garage and living space, and back through your exhaust vent.
If you want to do this less expensively, I would make some frames to closely cover a few windows on the other side of the bus, and cut down a plastic evaporator cooler pad to fit in the frames (the sponge kind, not the fiber kind). That way when it starts sucking air, the path of least resistance is through the windows and the pads catch most of the dust and pollen. Larger debris can be brushed off the outside of the pads, and the dust and pollen can be hosed out as needed. You'll want a little more surface area than the exhaust size, due to the airflow restrictions in the pads and to keep from developing lower air pressure I mentioned. Bonus is to make them removable for travel and weather.
The more expensive option is to cut an intake. And make a channel through the garage. I wouldn't want to do that, but it's an option. It will keep the garage cleaner but it's a lot of work and a lot of space.
-S
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You guys are making a basic function sound so hard to accomplish. Can it be any easier than this pic? Cutting in the intake costs nothing but the cost of a screen.
So is there anything that should prevent me from doing this, speak now or forever hold your peace. I'm cutting next step.
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06-20-2019, 05:36 PM
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#30
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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I'd flip sides of the bus so the connectors go towards the air handler and the condenser doesn't blow hot air out the passenger side
__________________
Nick
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06-20-2019, 05:57 PM
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#31
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 74
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 (3904 RE)
Engine: Cummins 8.3TA
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
You guys are making a basic function sound so hard to accomplish. Can it be any easier than this pic? Cutting in the intake costs nothing but the cost of a screen.
So is there anything that should prevent me from doing this, speak now or forever hold your peace. I'm cutting next step.
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Sorry. I'm trying to explain the how and the why. The diagram you drew is what I'm talking about. Cutting in the intake can take as much as you want, since we're talking about dust and keeping things clean(ish).
-S
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06-20-2019, 06:12 PM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty
I'd flip sides of the bus so the connectors go towards the air handler and the condenser doesn't blow hot air out the passenger side
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Where is my air handler?
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06-20-2019, 06:15 PM
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#33
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synestine
Sorry. I'm trying to explain the how and the why. The diagram you drew is what I'm talking about. Cutting in the intake can take as much as you want, since we're talking about dust and keeping things clean(ish).
-S
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How will this set up get anymore dirt/debris dust, than any other outside set up? I see this being much cleaner than an outside unit would get. With the intake grill on the outside of the drivers side and a FILTER on the inside should remedy any concern for dirt.
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06-20-2019, 06:23 PM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
If you flip it over which way does it blow?
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WTF. pick the unit up and rotate it clockwise 100 times, tell me which rotation changed the direction of the fan?
If I turn this fan on with the handle on top, and then rotate it so the handle is on the bottom, the function of the fan doesn't change.
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06-20-2019, 06:31 PM
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#35
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Where is my air handler?
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Inside fan unit that the lineset runs to is what I'm referring to.
Install it according to your plan. My hangs under the bus and works fine.
__________________
Nick
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06-20-2019, 06:37 PM
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#36
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty
Inside fan unit that the lineset runs to is what I'm referring to.
Install it according to your plan. My hangs under the bus and works fine.
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You told me to move the unit so it would be toward the handler without knowing where I had the handler.
The whole reason I moved it from the drivers side was because the plumbing came out the back end and would be a pain to plumb it by running the lines out and then making 180* turn to head towards the handler up front. would shorten the run I can have. Mounting on the pass. side gets the fittings close to the wall and in the direction they need.
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06-20-2019, 08:36 PM
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#37
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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Yes, you didn't mention that you had now moved it to have the lineset towards the air handler.
Was pretty sure your handler was inside the back wall and not in the garage...
__________________
Nick
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06-20-2019, 08:44 PM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty
Yes, you didn't mention that you had now moved it to have the lineset towards the air handler.
Was pretty sure your handler was inside the back wall and not in the garage...
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It's neither, the handler will be forward of the garage inside the cabin. I mentioned moving it and why in post #24. If the handler were in the back wall the lines would work best on the drivers side, but it would only cool the garage.
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06-21-2019, 01:53 PM
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#39
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Got this project pretty much done. Cut the rest of the hole on the inside. Cut some vinyl siding strip to cover the opening and will seal it once in place. At first I cut it just wide enough for the opening, but because there is a convex area of the front cover, it still held the unit a 1/2" away from sealing against the wall, so I will cut a wider piece of vinyl to close that gap. Temp. strap on top for now until I figure final securing method.
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06-21-2019, 02:37 PM
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#40
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
It's neither, the handler will be forward of the garage inside the cabin. I mentioned moving it and why in post #24. If the handler were in the back wall the lines would work best on the drivers side, but it would only cool the garage.
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Which is where I assumed it would be
__________________
Nick
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