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Old 06-21-2019, 03:42 PM   #41
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Looks good, Marc.

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Old 06-21-2019, 04:02 PM   #42
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Pretty cool wall integration!
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:49 PM   #43
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Now for the intake side. Will a 10" vent flow enough air for this unit? I will install a 14" filter and grill inside, they didn't have a 10" filter.
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:58 PM   #44
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It's there now, no looking back. I cut a 12" hole in the Polyiso, and a 14" hole in the 1" rigid pink to fit the filter. I screen on the finish plywood and done. I liked the idea at the start, like it better now. I can't think of a single negative for it being installed here.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:35 PM   #45
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how to keep water out of your air intake? if its pouring down rain and you have the whole garage of your bus negatively pressurized you are going to be sucking in water from every crak there is..



what about solar heating in the garage area and trying to keep that condensor cool.. ie bus sits in the sun and that area gets up to 120+ degrees thats going to be a heck of a load on that A/C.. the airflow will help some to cool that garage.. the unit will use more energy which if you are on shore power no big deal.. but if running on solar or genny can be... these units ramp that condensor fan up to higher speeds based on the ambient air temp and the head pressure of the condenser coils.. they also ramp their compressor up higher if the coil temps inside arent cool enough so it uses more energy to spin the fan and compressor faster to overcome heat..



I love the idea of the unit itself being mounted indoors like this. but I think I might have wanted a dedicated air intake for it..



you wont damage the unit the way you have it.. if it gets too hot in there for it.. then it will slow its compressor down to keep from over-temp.. and your cooling will diminish during that time


when I hot boxed one for testing... over about 110 ambient they started to struggle a bit.. 120 the energy usage went up.. 130 and it slowed itself way down.. energy usage dropped.. but the air was not real cold inside anymore..



just thoughts in the open..
-Christopher
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:06 PM   #46
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Has your wife noticed the missing shelf from the refrigerator yet ?
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:38 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivetboy View Post
Has your wife noticed the missing shelf from the refrigerator yet ?
Ex-wife, died in Feb. That's the screen off the actual unit, just screw to the side of the.
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:45 PM   #48
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[QUOTE=o1marcEx-wife, died in Feb. That's the screen off the actual unit, just screw to the side


Sorry for your loss ex or not they were a part of your life
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Old 06-22-2019, 02:13 PM   #49
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[QUOTE=Rivetboy;333745][QUOTE=o1marcEx-wife, died in Feb. That's the screen off the actual unit, just screw to the side


Sorry for your loss ex or not they were a part of your life[/QUOTE]

I'm torn by her death. While I still loved my exwife, I resented the fact that she would have rather stayed with an abusive new husband who physically abused her and my daughter. It only happened once to my daughter. He beat her up because his drunk ass didn't like how she was cooking his burgers. She had him arrested and said she was going to divorce him. Well it seemed that wasn't going to happen and so I went and removed my daughter from the home. Her childhood was destroyed by this POS step father. Because of that my daughter never had a relationship with her mother because of the husband. They continued in the abusive relationship till she drank herself to death at 53 years old. It pains me that they couldn't repair their relationship and now she's gone. The POS had previously acknowledged there was a will leaving the house to my daughter. It was never filed and now that she's dead it has disappeared. Which means he is entitled to half of everything. He has done nothing as far as probate goes since she passed Feb 22. So I had to hire an attorney on my daughters account to get him out of the house and the assets sold off. My daughter is currently living in Au.it's as far from her mother as she could get. Sad situation all around
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Old 06-22-2019, 02:16 PM   #50
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Decided to trim out the rub rail I cut out and fit it back on. That rail looked bare and odd at the top.
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Old 06-22-2019, 02:19 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
how to keep water out of your air intake? if its pouring down rain and you have the whole garage of your bus negatively pressurized you are going to be sucking in water from every crak there is..



what about solar heating in the garage area and trying to keep that condensor cool.. ie bus sits in the sun and that area gets up to 120+ degrees thats going to be a heck of a load on that A/C.. the airflow will help some to cool that garage.. the unit will use more energy which if you are on shore power no big deal.. but if running on solar or genny can be... these units ramp that condensor fan up to higher speeds based on the ambient air temp and the head pressure of the condenser coils.. they also ramp their compressor up higher if the coil temps inside arent cool enough so it uses more energy to spin the fan and compressor faster to overcome heat..



I love the idea of the unit itself being mounted indoors like this. but I think I might have wanted a dedicated air intake for it..



you wont damage the unit the way you have it.. if it gets too hot in there for it.. then it will slow its compressor down to keep from over-temp.. and your cooling will diminish during that time


when I hot boxed one for testing... over about 110 ambient they started to struggle a bit.. 120 the energy usage went up.. 130 and it slowed itself way down.. energy usage dropped.. but the air was not real cold inside anymore..



just thoughts in the open..
-Christopher
With an intake vent on one side and the exhaust on the opposite wall, where does the negative pressure come from?
Won't know how important any of that is till I turn it on and see how it works.
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:46 PM   #52
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Hello all. I have been planning a mini split install in my 1989 crown supercoach. Quite a few videos out on people doing it. My question is, most mini splits are 230volt. Does a generator support that? Currently, 115 volt mini splits are unavailable, but returning to market soon
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:54 PM   #53
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Buck Honcho

https://www.sogoodtobuy.com/12000-bt...ner-senl-12cd/


I bought this unit.
it is 115V not 230/240
I bought it because it is VDF driven and has super low inrush current on start up. A 1500W 3000W peak pure sine wave inverted did run this unit successfully. ( although I've now upgraded to dual 3000W units 18,000W peak )


I just installed it and can not yet vouch for it's longevity on a bus.

I also got 670 "points" to apply towards another purchase from the website. If you are interested to buy this same unit I can share with you my account so you can redeem the points, good for a 20$ discount I think.
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Old 07-02-2019, 03:56 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck Honcho View Post
Hello all. I have been planning a mini split install in my 1989 crown supercoach. Quite a few videos out on people doing it. My question is, most mini splits are 230volt. Does a generator support that? Currently, 115 volt mini splits are unavailable, but returning to market soon
I don't know how accurate "most" would be, units 12K btu and smaller are 110v, 15Kbtu jumps to 220. 110v units are available everywhere.
I bought this one for $432.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-000-BTU-...72.m2749.l2649
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Old 07-02-2019, 05:35 PM   #55
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Wiring mine and came upon this wire end. Took me a minute to figure out the hell you're suppose to connect these when they are already shrinked around the terminal. The are just a slip fit and can slide back for connection.
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:57 PM   #56
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Can anyone give me a factual reason they would put a ring terminal on this one wire but not the others?
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Old 07-12-2019, 04:21 PM   #57
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Probably so when it is connected it can take pressure from a lock and flat washer with a nut. They don't want that wire disconnecting and that configuration gives lots of real estate for the best torque for the bolt.


John
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:30 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Probably so when it is connected it can take pressure from a lock and flat washer with a nut. They don't want that wire disconnecting and that configuration gives lots of real estate for the best torque for the bolt.


John
Why would you want one form of securing for one and a second method for the others, makes no sense when they all do exactly the same thing.
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:53 PM   #59
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I note that the one with the ring terminal is yellow with a green tracer. That's the European coloring for a ground wire, isn't it? One could argue that the ground is the most important of all the wires because it provides the fault path for tripping an over-current breaker/fuse. The closed ring keeps the terminal semi-attached even if the screw is extremely loose, whereas the spade terminal can slide out from under a screw that's only moderately loose.


I'll guess that the others have spades for convenience while the ground has a ring because safety trumps convenience.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:40 PM   #60
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What does the other end of the wire look like? Loose like that end or?
You best be ringing the cable out for the ground, or is there two ground wires?
The spade lugs tighten under a screw but with a good hand strength. They don't normally fall out but do require tightening from time to time.
Show us where the cable connects on both ends.


John
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