mini-split line hard

[ism minerals]

Has anyone used the flexible no kink lines for the connection to the outdoor condenser or is the hard line copper connection just fine to use?

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

please post a pic. of your no kink lines and tell us more about location of outdoor and indoor unit location and maybe why you are asking this question?
yes soft copper can work harden over time and rigid pipe can help with protection?
whats your idea?
never heard of no kink lines?
have found braided 2' long flexible connectors rated for refrigerant pressure at one of my supply houses.
but i work for an HVAC company.
never heard of no kink piping?

[ism minerals]

Hi jolly,



The items are rectorseal nokink 66733, there is also one for 1/4 lines.


https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-66.../dp/B00MTWACSW



yes my concern would be the fatigue of the copper lines mainly due to vibrations of the units being mounted under the bus. I will most likely put some dampeners on the bottom of the units to absorb some of the road vibration and will attach the lines as secure as possible if i do not go the n kink route. I think this is also an issue with copper LP lines if I am not mistaken.



If real world experience has shown that 5 or 6 years hard lines are OK, i think i can skip the no kink lines.

[fo4imtippin]

I have installed a mini split at my house a few years ago. At the time, most of the HVAC forums and videos had their leaks at the flare connection. Seemed like solid advice was to use the flare that comes on the unit rather than the line set and reflare the ends. I used some sort of lubricant on the outside of the flare to help the nut bind against it.


I'm not really concerned about the line set vibrating as much as the flare ends vibrating. Those no kink still look to have a copper flare needed. I would just isolate the line set well and secure it from movement.


I'm not an HVAC guy nor have I even installed mine on my bus, but that's my take..

Originally Posted by ism minerals

Hi jolly,



The items are rectorseal nokink 66733, there is also one for 1/4 lines.


https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-66.../dp/B00MTWACSW



yes my concern would be the fatigue of the copper lines mainly due to vibrations of the units being mounted under the bus. I will most likely put some dampeners on the bottom of the units to absorb some of the road vibration and will attach the lines as secure as possible if i do not go the n kink route. I think this is also an issue with copper LP lines if I am not mistaken.



If real world experience has shown that 5 or 6 years hard lines are OK, i think i can skip the no kink lines.

[ism minerals]

I think the sealant/ lubricant for the flare is called Nylog. I read some where that the hook up line set flares usually are junk and need to be re-flared. It should be a 45 degree single flare.

[jjaj823]

I am using (or will when they finally arrive) the Rectorseal lines for my mini split. My reason is to be able to bend the outside lines without worrying as much about accidentally kinking them. Also, I’m hoping they may have a little more flexibility for driving and that little extra bit of armor defend against small road debris.

Or, it may do none of the above…only time will tell!

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by fo4imtippin

I have installed a mini split at my house a few years ago. At the time, most of the HVAC forums and videos had their leaks at the flare connection. Seemed like solid advice was to use the flare that comes on the unit rather than the line set and reflare the ends. I used some sort of lubricant on the outside of the flare to help the nut bind against it.


I'm not really concerned about the line set vibrating as much as the flare ends vibrating. Those no kink still look to have a copper flare needed. I would just isolate the line set well and secure it from movement.


I'm not an HVAC guy nor have I even installed mine on my bus, but that's my take..

My minisplit lines are in, solid copper. The condenser is on the 'rear porch' and I'm designing something to secure the two refrigerant lines so they cannot move with respect to the condenser, something about five or six inches from the flare connections.

The lines take a left turn behind the condenser, then enter the back of the bus after about five feet. I'm thinking if the flexing I may experience between the bus and the rear bumper extension is translated along the five feet of pipe instead of right at the joint I should be fine.