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Old 01-23-2022, 11:04 PM   #1
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Western MT
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Year: 1990
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71TA, 10 sp.
Rated Cap: 90 (40')
Secure mounting of Mini Split indoor unit?

I just received my new Pioneer mini split and am surprised by how flimsy the indoor unit feels. The mounting bracket is thin sheet metal (18 or maybe 20 gauge?) and everything else is plastic. I don't even see anywhere to firmly attach the unit to the mount - it just seems to rest there under its own weight.
This seems strong enough for its intended purpose (hanging from the wall of a house that doesn't bounce down dirt roads), but I have no faith in it's ability to stand up to regular bus abuse, let alone stay put in a crash.

How are you all securely mounting these things? My first thought is to build an exoskeleton, but that's stymied by the entire front needing to open up for cleaning. Very curious to hear your innovative solutions!

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Old 01-24-2022, 12:26 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jun 2016
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
When I installed my Pioneer 12K in my Crown I used the bracket as-is: it seems adequate for the task in a moving vehicle. The unit hangs off the top tabs and is secured by the bottom tabs. I did however spend some time and effort making the mounts for the bracket that attach it to the side wall above the window, just below the ceiling - I drilled and tapped 1/4"-20 holes in the 3/8"-thick steel above the windows for the two aluminum spacers that hold the bracket vertical against the non-vertical body side, and some more threaded holes above the wiring conduits for the upper spacer bolts that prevent outward sway. I think it's going to work just fine this way, but I'll keep an eye on it to be sure. Besides, don't all Crowns ride so smoooothly anyway?

John
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Old 01-24-2022, 06:56 AM   #3
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many people are mounting these on the end caps of their bus.. this part flexes very little so it is a good stable place to put the indoor unit.. remember when mounting it that orientation is important.. that bracket is meant to be straight up and down and needs to stay that way as water runs down the coil and out the drain.. the drain pan on these is pretty shallow so you cant tilt the unit much forward or back without having water issues..



if your unit has the capability or drilling a second hole and having drain holes in both ends of the indoor unit then its well worth doing.. this way if your bus tilts one way or the other tyou dont end up with water issues.. or if you plan to run it while driving this helps with drainage.
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:57 PM   #4
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as mentioned the unit rest on the top tabs of the backing and locks into the bottom tabs.
i am planning on making sheetmetal tabs to put at the top of the unit screwed to the bulkhead to help keep the unit from bouncing up but still be able to remove the tabs.
and for the member who mentioned being able to remove for access to get into the space for cleaning and maintenance.
i found through one of my suppliers at work some various length 2-3 foot braided stanless steel hoses rated for refrigeration/mini split use.
i plan on getting the 3 foot ones for my exterior install.
they also make ball valves that you can put a set on the unit and a set on the end of the lines that way if you have to drop the unit for periodic cleaning behind it you can valve both sides off and brake the short connection between the two and will lose very little refrigerant.
i know someone might balk at that but if done correctly then it would be know more than an HVAC service man connecting or disconnecting his service manifold hoses.
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Old 01-24-2022, 04:01 PM   #5
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
When I installed my Pioneer 12K in my Crown I used the bracket as-is: it seems adequate for the task in a moving vehicle. The unit hangs off the top tabs and is secured by the bottom tabs. I did however spend some time and effort making the mounts for the bracket that attach it to the side wall above the window, just below the ceiling - I drilled and tapped 1/4"-20 holes in the 3/8"-thick steel above the windows for the two aluminum spacers that hold the bracket vertical against the non-vertical body side, and some more threaded holes above the wiring conduits for the upper spacer bolts that prevent outward sway. I think it's going to work just fine this way, but I'll keep an eye on it to be sure. Besides, don't all Crowns ride so smoooothly anyway?

John
Same here. Mine is a different brand but they all appear to be built about the same.

I have it mounted on the rear driver side of the (fiberglass) bus wall. I built a sturdy shelf of 3/4" plywood held in place by two shelf brackets screwed to the wall; then I mounted the split system metal backer bracket to a plywood backer which is secured to that wall shelf by way of two inverted shelf brackets.



Each bracket holds almost my entire body weight, so I'm feeling like it should hold, but will be monitoring it. Plenty of room behind for plumbing and wiring; and plenty of air circulation above.
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