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Old 07-24-2019, 10:40 PM   #1
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Should I keep factory Ac

My bus has 2 Ac units. And the underbody ( fans)
Iím really not a hvac guy or informed at all about the vocab and havenít even though I couldíve googled what a condensar .. etc is I havenít.
The Ac works okay.... not great . Definitely blows but not cold.
Shouldíve I keep for on the road Ac and heat? And leave every as is. Iím gutting for a roof raise and wondering if raising the roof with everything installed would get in the way. Should I just use a mini split?
Are these Ac systems efficient enough and worth it to keep and maybe add Freon to stay cool. Is it more of a hassle? Itís trans air ?
Any feed back would be great.
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:35 PM   #2
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If you ever plan on driving while it is hot out, yes you want to keep them, you can disconnect them during the roof raise but do not cut the lines or break the evaporator housings during removal, they are expensive
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Old 07-25-2019, 02:39 AM   #3
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I recommend you keep them. Have the systems evacuated by a tech. You are more likely going to need longer freon lines to the interior units after raising the roof. I would also suggest new driers for when the AC systems get reconnected.
Good Luck with your roof raise.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:07 AM   #4
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If it produces cool air and if your AC compressor is engaging it is still charged with some refrigerant. Chances are it just needs more refrigerant added. This is easy to do. You will need a manifold gauge set with automotive connectors for R134a and a several cans of R134a. (Double check that your system uses 134a). A nice gauge set can be had for around $100. A cheap set fo $30. Find the manual for your brand and model AC system online and add refrigerant according to their instructions.

Be aware of YouTube videos not everyone the posts knows what they are doing.

You could have a shop do it but AC work is usually spendy.

If the AC compressor is not engaging then the system is either very low on refrigerant, empty or has other problems to fix this will require a little more work depending on what's broken.

Don't take any lines apart without having the refrigerant removed to keep it out of the environment.

If there is a auto or truck or HVAC school in your area maybe they could use as a project?

Ted
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:35 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by TJones View Post
If it produces cool air and if your AC compressor is engaging it is still charged with some refrigerant. Chances are it just needs more refrigerant added. This is easy to do. You will need a manifold gauge set with automotive connectors for R134a and a several cans of R134a. (Double check that your system uses 134a). A nice gauge set can be had for around $100. A cheap set fo $30. Find the manual for your brand and model AC system online and add refrigerant according to their instructions.

Be aware of YouTube videos not everyone the posts knows what they are doing.

You could have a shop do it but AC work is usually spendy.

If the AC compressor is not engaging then the system is either very low on refrigerant, empty or has other problems to fix this will require a little more work depending on what's broken.

Don't take any lines apart without having the refrigerant removed to keep it out of the environment.

If there is a auto or truck or HVAC school in your area maybe they could use as a project?

Ted
I’m going to have to do it myself . I want it done fast and it’s not registered yet so it’s in my back yard. Thinking of going the Vermont method . .
I was hoping to just leave the it is attached to the roof while raising but am wondering about coolant lines etc.

As for evaparator housing ? Is that the plastic trim / covers?
It blows just not to cold...
I was even thinking about adding ducks to the front unit to route more dash Ac.
Or front cab Ac.

I left a message on the off grid skoolies YouTube channel . Chris .
He said Mini split systems would be more but i don’t think he understood I was saying I want to keep the factory Ac for driving purposes ....
then install a mini split system for when parked....

Also I check what refrigant is used tonight .
There’s a lot of fans Underneath the bus and i am not sure if there pulling air in or exhausting air out .
Taking them out would allow me more space for a extra gas tank. If I leave them in I was wondering about re routing my exhuast behind them but not if there pulling air in ...
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:35 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by OrionsComfortBus View Post
I recommend you keep them. Have the systems evacuated by a tech. You are more likely going to need longer freon lines to the interior units after raising the roof. I would also suggest new driers for when the AC systems get reconnected.
Good Luck with your roof raise.
Whatís a drier ?
Why ?
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:51 AM   #7
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an A/C filter / Dryer. it goes into the Liquid line. (looks like a small canister usually mounted near the outside condensor).. it has a dessicant in it which removes moisture from the lines.. and also a filter so if any dirt or contaminents or even graphite material from an ailing compressor get into the lines it filters it out..



when you tear a system apart to replaces lines, compressor, etc.. esp if its torn apart for any length of time its generally a good idea to change the filter / dryer..



im replacing / upgrading the condensor on my DEV bus. and am using a new filter / dryer. as both evaporators have been open.. the POE or PAG oil in the system is prone to wicking moisture.. I'll put my vacuum pump on for a couple hours which will help suck out the moisture. but the dryer will ensure its clear..


read some of my posts in the "think before you remove your AC" thread.. I mentione how bad non condensables are in an A/C..



your bus built in 2003 usses R-134A refrigerant..



if you are raising the roof you will need to most likely lengthen the hoses.. these hoses are made on-the-fly when a system is installed.. there are various methods for making your own hoses.. I do it all the time. with either EZ-clip or Burgaflex / Burgaclip fittings..



https://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...clip/index.htm


my A/C guy in indiana (proAir LLC) sells me all the burgaflex stuff i need.. its a little harder to find online since it is european,.. I havent had one leak yet


as much of this you can do yourself the better.. shops like to charge big bucks to work on Bus Air-Conditioners..



if you werent far away id help fix it for you..



-Christopher
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:11 AM   #8
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an A/C filter / Dryer. it goes into the Liquid line. (looks like a small canister usually mounted near the outside condensor).. it has a dessicant in it which removes moisture from the lines.. and also a filter so if any dirt or contaminents or even graphite material from an ailing compressor get into the lines it filters it out..



when you tear a system apart to replaces lines, compressor, etc.. esp if its torn apart for any length of time its generally a good idea to change the filter / dryer..



im replacing / upgrading the condensor on my DEV bus. and am using a new filter / dryer. as both evaporators have been open.. the POE or PAG oil in the system is prone to wicking moisture.. I'll put my vacuum pump on for a couple hours which will help suck out the moisture. but the dryer will ensure its clear..


read some of my posts in the "think before you remove your AC" thread.. I mentione how bad non condensables are in an A/C..



your bus built in 2003 usses R-134A refrigerant..



if you are raising the roof you will need to most likely lengthen the hoses.. these hoses are made on-the-fly when a system is installed.. there are various methods for making your own hoses.. I do it all the time. with either EZ-clip or Burgaflex / Burgaclip fittings..



https://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...clip/index.htm


my A/C guy in indiana (proAir LLC) sells me all the burgaflex stuff i need.. its a little harder to find online since it is european,.. I havent had one leak yet


as much of this you can do yourself the better.. shops like to charge big bucks to work on Bus Air-Conditioners..



if you werent far away id help fix it for you..



-Christopher

Whenís the next time your coming to Houston?
You know how tangos doing?

Iíll search for your thread and read through it again. That was what i was originally looking for.

So would you recommend Keeping the factory Ac for driving ? If itís still operable it should be pretty easy to get up to par and worth keeping ?
Then use mini split while parked ?
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BusT View Post
Whenís the next time your coming to Houston?
You know how tangos doing?

Iíll search for your thread and read through it again. That was what i was originally looking for.

So would you recommend Keeping the factory Ac for driving ? If itís still operable it should be pretty easy to get up to par and worth keeping ?
Then use mini split while parked ?
If the factory AC works I'd keep it.

When raising your roof do the evaporators have to go up with the roof or could they be unbolted to avoid disconnecting the AC lines? It sounds like your condensers are skirt mounted so you shouldn't have any other AC lines connected to the roof.

I am planning on using the factory air while driving and then switching to a mini split while parked. It wouldn't be practical to cool a bus going down the road with a mini split.

Ted
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BusT View Post
Iím going to have to do it myself . I want it done fast and itís not registered yet so itís in my back yard. Thinking of going the Vermont method . .
I was hoping to just leave the it is attached to the roof while raising but am wondering about coolant lines etc.

As for evaparator housing ? Is that the plastic trim / covers?
It blows just not to cold...
I was even thinking about adding ducks to the front unit to route more dash Ac.
Or front cab Ac.

I left a message on the off grid skoolies YouTube channel . Chris .
He said Mini split systems would be more but i donít think he understood I was saying I want to keep the factory Ac for driving purposes ....
then install a mini split system for when parked....

Also I check what refrigant is used tonight .
Thereís a lot of fans Underneath the bus and i am not sure if there pulling air in or exhausting air out .
Taking them out would allow me more space for a extra gas tank. If I leave them in I was wondering about re routing my exhuast behind them but not if there pulling air in ...
The evaporator is what's mounted inside the bus with the blowers. The condensers are where the fans in your skirt are. The fans pull/push air through the condenser. You do not want to put hot exhaust near them or block the air flow with storage boxes or a fuel tank.

If you are planning on insulating your bus and you have both a rear and front evaporator it should cool the drivers area without additional ducting.

You would be better off to leave the AC lines connected and take the condensers off the roof if you can. They will be an added unbalanced weight while doing your roof raise.

Ted
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Old 07-26-2019, 07:58 AM   #11
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the lines are generally too short to handle the additional length of a roof raise..



from your inside evaporator you will have one hose line that goes down to the condenser underneath(liquid line), and one hose line which goes back to the compressor(suction line). its Possible they left slack in those but not likely, these are rubber hoses and you may find underneath that they have large sweeping loops as they route under the bus and to the various components.. dont be tempted to pull those tight as too tight of a bend in these hoses results restricting the refrigerant flow..

if its necessary to lengthen the hoses, you can either replace the complete hose, or splice in a new section of hose..

often the manufacturer tries to locate the condenser closest to the evaporator.. so replacing the liquid line completely is a good way to go.. , the custion line (big hose that goes back to the compressor).. may be better off splicing in..



if budget allows I always recommend replacing hoses vs splicing. but I have spliced in sections succesfully more than once..



this is an EXAMPLE of a splice.. (you have to see what your specific hose is).. you would use 2 of these with a section of hose to increase its length..


https://www.toolsid.com/four-seasons...mpn-19042.html


-Christopher
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Old 07-26-2019, 07:45 PM   #12
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Well Iím out here checking out the bus and yes the lines are way to short.
Each Ac has to rubbers/ one clear hose( not so clear ) and electrical .
So Iím thinking of un bolting the systems through the all thread and just leaving them on the ground for the time being . Then reinstall once raise is done . And splice in as needed.
I also had a good head banger about 2 hours ago. Some of the ceiling panels I took off unexpectedly bowed down while I was working . Went to turn around and stand up and pow.
Good cut on my forehead. Ha. The hard hat I have to put on Monday isnít going to help it heal either .
Chris i couldnít see any posting on the units a or the refrigerant they do take. So am I safe with refilling with what you mentioned earlier
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Old 07-27-2019, 01:31 AM   #13
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Owch! I sure do know how that hurts. I caught a ceiling panel on the side of my head at about eye level while I was installing our Roughneck air conditioner. I hope yours heals quickly.
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Old 07-27-2019, 06:13 AM   #14
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That'll leave a mark!3orieZU3G22Twbl2xO.gif
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:12 AM   #15
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Owch! I sure do know how that hurts. I caught a ceiling panel on the side of my head at about eye level while I was installing our Roughneck air conditioner. I hope yours heals quickly.
At least at eye level you might get off with a cool scar later. And not so much a Harry Potter mark. Hahah yeah it’s crazy how it’s thin enough to cut but thick enough to leave a good knot .
Thanks man I do hope it heals quick . I’m having to really take care of it.
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:18 AM   #16
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That'll leave a mark!Attachment 35992
I’m sure it will .
So I’m prepping for roof raise this weekend and hoping to have enough saved for materials and rivets by mid August to really start the lift .
I’m just wondering now when I remove the Ac . Should I disconnect lines now. Or just sat them on the ground still connected .
I know if I start pulling lines apart I’ll be letting Freon out
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Old 07-27-2019, 12:09 PM   #17
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They need to be properly purged and depressurized before wielding any sharp implements in that direction.
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