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Old 09-12-2018, 05:20 AM   #21
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We decided to not use spray foam but use foam board so I have been looking at sound deadners and found a product called lizard skin they have a coating that has ceramic in it an could work for you. I'm gonna spray this on the inside of my walls and ceiling. And the the non ceramic one on the floor. It too takes away that tin metal box rattle but the ceramic on drops temps alot.

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Old 09-12-2018, 06:19 AM   #22
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No, not effective thermal insulation, not even .01% of what spray foam does.

But for noise deadening, any weight added to the sheet metal helps.

Cheap versions of the stick-on stuff, no need to cover the whole panel.

If you need thermal insulation, rigid board is cheaper, fill in the gaps with spray foam.

Big spray foam job better result, maybe even cheaper to get a pro to do it, def easier.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:13 AM   #23
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Is the only issue time frame? You're asking for off the shelf product you can get at Home Depot/Lowes. HD/Lowes will get it in store faster than you could probably order it on line.
I was mostly just curious whether anyone had been able to walk into a store, grab the product and go. I'm not sure when, exactly, I'll be doing the insulation on the bus and I don't really want to order it and then have to find space in the house/garage for the kit until I'm ready to use it.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:16 AM   #24
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Temperature and humidity are **critical** so don't think you get to just choose when to do it.
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:32 AM   #25
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I was mostly just curious whether anyone had been able to walk into a store, grab the product and go. I'm not sure when, exactly, I'll be doing the insulation on the bus and I don't really want to order it and then have to find space in the house/garage for the kit until I'm ready to use it.
The issues people create for themselves? Lowes carries it on the floor. If you don't need it now, surely you will have a week or a few days leeway when you plan on doing it. Order it 3 days before or walk into a Lowes and pick it up, where is the problem?
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:37 AM   #26
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I think I should clarify, I wont be spraying the foam directly by the engine. But to absorb road noise, tire noise, exhaust noise, turbo noise, I will be spraying the underside of the floor but not close to the hot parts. I'm thinking of using the spray foam on top of the engine cover in the passenger compartment then build a cabinet of sorts on the engine cover to absorb some more noise with out the heat issue.

Then there is the back side of the entry stairs, perhaps there is a way to insulate this sheet metal. I stood in a skoolie recently just after they stopped and could feel loads of heat coming through the stairs.

I've driven some rear engine buses and they are so quiet as are the large coaches. I've heard of front engine buses being load and hot, just trying to mitigate that possibility.
Styrofoam is typically used to insulate against road noise. There's really no way to make a bus quiet on the road. In cars we use insulated multi layered glass, foam inserts in the body panels and sound deadening padding under the carpets.
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Old 09-14-2018, 11:50 AM   #27
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Temperature and humidity are **critical** so don't think you get to just choose when to do it.
This is definitely true for tiger foam. Best results are for foam at 85 degrees which means a couple of days at that temp to get the contents of the tanks to that temp. Also, I live where it is very dry and mine shrunk some. Honestly, if I had to do it over again I would do rigid and just fill the gaps with closed cell spray foam I think. Or have gotten a pro to do it. I am still trimming foam AND I need to add a bit here and there as I want 100% of it insulated after spending so much on it!!! Some places have literally 8" of foam, almost everywhere has about 2", but there are still little areas where I can see the bottom of the roof between rows" of the spray or where one row turns back and begins another row as I sprayed continuously rather than stop at the end of each section. That's how they do it in the videos but..... oh well. I'm going to end up with a very well insulated bus come hell or high water. It's just going to have cost more and taken longer than it should have. And I had one section that didn't cure right as one tank ran out while we were spraying that part. I had to remove it all with acetone and because it dropped under the chair rail I have to remove that piece of wood and clean that too!!

One thing I didn't realize is that the foam wants to push the wires away from the walls rather than just go around them. I would have foamed BEFORE doing the electrical and then cut the slots for the conduit or wires afterward. It's easy to cut slots in the foam but difficult to trim the top off flat or fill in behind wires etc where the wires blocked the spray.
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:09 PM   #28
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I've seen ads for spray foam kits in Hudson Valley CL
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:46 PM   #29
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I’ve just done a lot of research on spray foam insulation for an outbuilding—this is the cheapest I have found on the biggest kit available. Price includes shipping.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F311353419824
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:59 PM   #30
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Home depot carries them here. Its around $330 for the starter kit. Here is IA
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Old 09-19-2018, 07:17 PM   #31
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Yes big PITA job now, but will pay off later in comfort and lower energy costs.

For "next time" or others, I would suggest the three-sided conduits with snap on facing, along the top or bottom, with space behind for some foam, well fixed in place and very well covered masked, before spraying.

Let you get to wiring, fix & add later on.
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:16 AM   #32
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I’m pretty sure spray foam has zero sound insulation value. I had some on a wall in my previous house in an attempt to quiet the room down. It didnt do anything. On the parts where we had real sound insulation it made a huge difference.
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Old 09-20-2018, 06:36 AM   #33
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Do a Google search of "Is DynaMat effective?" and read all the reviews from people who have used. See the very small ratio of those who justify the expense compared to those who say it is not effective at all.
Dynamat is awesome for killing road noise.
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:14 AM   #34
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Im going to use lizard skin sound deadener.. its a spray on application
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:18 AM   #35
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Sound is pressure waves in the air. Sound travels thru holes in objects and by causing stiff objects to vibrate (think drum skin, metal, or glass windows) and restart the sound on the other side (even concrete). Foam only helps by filling holes and should be as flexible as possible (think gell, rubbery caulks) so it doesn't vibrate as much. High density materials help period - more energy required to cause it to vibrate.



High density soft stuff stops sound because they don't vibrate very easy (think lead, heavy vinyl/rubber)



Fluffy or soft stuff kills sound (fiberglass insulation, curtains, etc) because they contain dead air spaces between many layers of material that flexes/waves more than vibrates. Every time some object in the path of the sound wave flexes or vibrates, some pressure energy is lost by conversion to heat energy. Lose enough pressure energy and the sound dies.


Another way to stop sound is that sound requires a medium to travel. It cannot travel through a vacuum. Some coatings use tiny hollow spheres that contain a vacuum in them.


Sound can also be reflected - requires a lot of thought and good design.


Any time you see any phrase touting a products sound deadener properties the price goes up exponentially. If you can find the same material marketed for a different purpose the price is usually much lower.


Building stuff in between you and the sound is another alternative (book shelf dresser, shoe rack, water tank, etc) - soaks up the sound - see fluffy stuff and high density - volume/amount of material helps


Often the cheapest, simplest, and best way to kill sound is to stop the source. Fix that muffler, bad bearing, loose bolts, etc. Replace that noisy tread design with quieter tires.



In your case I would look at undercoatings - many work very well.
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:53 AM   #36
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Good post. First principles.
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Old 09-20-2018, 06:11 PM   #37
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You can try DynaMat
I have used that with goo results

I found that bestbuy would price match amazon (on dynamat) as long as amazon was the seller.
So I bought the door kits for like $59 st best buy. (Reg price was over $100)
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:09 AM   #38
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Menards but doesnt save much

I found a kit at Menards but then I found a local installer that cost about as much as the kit. I opted for a pro. They buy in bulk and own their equipment so they can compete pretty well. They also had my entire ceiling and walls done in 2 hours.
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:35 AM   #39
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I found a kit at Menards but then I found a local installer that cost about as much as the kit. I opted for a pro. They buy in bulk and own their equipment so they can compete pretty well. They also had my entire ceiling and walls done in 2 hours.
That saved you clean up..
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:38 AM   #40
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We decided to not use spray foam but use foam board so I have been looking at sound deadners and found a product called lizard skin they have a coating that has ceramic in it an could work for you. I'm gonna spray this on the inside of my walls and ceiling. And the the non ceramic one on the floor. It too takes away that tin metal box rattle but the ceramic on drops temps alot.
Hi there, how did the Lizard Skin work out? I’m considering doing my ceiling.
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