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Old 11-13-2019, 03:27 PM   #1
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Troubleshooting leaking heater element

Hi,

I have a small leak somewhere in the driver side heater. I've been finding a small amount of coolant under the buss after it's been sitting for a while. I was hoping to delete the driverside heater. But this thread (I have an identical setup) shows that to be a bad idea.

There is a whole lot of parts involved in that setup. There is some sort of mixing or shutoff valve (controlled by a knob), the actual heater core, and then a bunch of pipes.

Before I pull it all apart, is there any useful tricks that people can share on how to pinpoint the leak. I would just go look for wet spots, but I'm sure that I the disassembly that approacg might lead to some false positives.

Good news is, the dealer seems to be able to order part individually!

Bas
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Old 11-13-2019, 03:35 PM   #2
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you just have to start pulling covers... on a bus that age id find it hard to believe the coil itself is the issue.. more often than not its a shutoff valve or a hose clamp leaking.. the only way to know is to pull a couple covers off...



if it is the coil, buy 3rd party or used.. dont get it from the dealer you'll pay through the nose..
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:02 PM   #3
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Hi,

Yeah, I've had these off for a bit, so I've been nosing around a bit. There is a lot in there. Was hoping to delete it all. But with that option removed, I will just start disassembly and hopefully something obvious will pop

TX!
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:05 PM   #4
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why would you delete your heating system?



you wish to shiver and bundle up while driving?


or are you. going to build a new one like myself and comfort eagle have done?
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:12 PM   #5
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Hi,

With a basement full of cold weather gear, the thought of not having a heater close to my feet was acceptable.

So the short answer on the why: do not have to deal with the leak (and to loose the small coolant line loop at the end of the heater core)

But living in Canada, where is always rains, and if it doesn't, it snows. I can absolutely not loose my window defrost

Once I pull the stuff out I will have a look at my options. Will also have a look thru your and Comfort Eagle's posts to see what you guys did

TX
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:35 PM   #6
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Check each and every hose clamp for tightness. They do back off and need attention from time to time. That goes for the whole engine too, not just that heater.
Big mistake to pull it out.


John
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Old 11-13-2019, 05:07 PM   #7
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almost any and all shutoff valves will leak around the stem that the open close handle moves especially if turned after no use in a while.
if a quarter turn ball valve then you can pull the handle and snug the nut behind the handle and if a round handle where you have to turn it a few times to close it then it is a gate valve and you can snug up the nut where the stem connected to handle enters the valve..
just another option but a picture of the heater still installed and the location of your leak would help us help you alot quicker
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Old 11-25-2019, 11:06 PM   #8
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Hi,

Was up over the weekend and did some more looking around. I'm going to guess this setup is pretty common across the different designs:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/attach...1&d=1574744117

The heater core is at the bottom, a valve controls the amount of water that is let in it seems. It leaks a good amount, it seems to come from the valve body.

The airbox has a fan and flap at the back (left in the picture) that controls heat to the "passengers". There is flap on the right that lets fresh air in from the outside.

Heated air is sort of free to circulate in most of that box, with one close space fed by the fan on the left, directed at the driver (or the passenger, depending on the flap setting).

In the top right is the fan that seems to feed the window defroster:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/attach...1&d=1574744117

It pulls warm air out of the box and pushes it in there. Both fans have this thingie attached:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/attach...1&d=1574744117

I'm guessing it's some sort of high temp disconnect? Or a current limiter, or .. Really thick coils. Heavy gauge wire going to it.

My thinking now is:
- Rip out the bottom heat exchanger and fan (on the left)
- Run new heating lines with no shutoffs in the cabin (just use the ones in the engine compartment
- Get a 28k BTU JEGS heater + duct kit. One nozzle aimed at the driver. One feeding the existing window defroster
- Reclaim a lot of the space there, and reduce the risk of leaks

Thoughts?
Attached Images
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Old 11-26-2019, 07:07 AM   #9
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that coil is the fan resistor.. for your fan speeds.. when you select a lower speed it brings in a resistor..



you can reclaim some space by going to a jegs heater or your own custom solution.. just remember those windhsields need a lot of heat to defrost / defog if driving in snowy weather or rain where fogging is an issue..



in my Carpenter bus I gutted that box flat and installed a nice high capacity heat / cool unit and a Jegs heater dedicated to the defroster.. a nice compact one.. so I have A/C on the dash for summer and using the compressor on rainy days along with the heat I can defog my windshields easily.. I placed vents up high and down low for the heat / AC.. they are in the kick panels and up into the dash.. I close or open the ones I want depending on where i want the air to go.. a smaller jegs heater is dedicated to the Left-defroster.. My DEV bus was ordered with a cold weather package so it has a complete separate right-side heating unit by the door that handles blowing heat on the door and a dedicated motor for the right windshield defroster..

dev-driverr-ac.jpg

dev-driver-ducts.jpg


-Christopher
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Old 11-26-2019, 01:46 PM   #10
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Great set up, Cadil
lac
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