Originally Posted by Stoveman
Thanks CadillacKid, I will need to check on the Mitchell/ Richmond question. My IH is a 1997.
I donít need an incredible robust ac system, just a dash installation with a couple of vents to help keep the front end cool would be awesome!
Sorry for the delay and thanks in advance!!
97 will be a richmond.. overcoming the engine heat is the hardest part.. ewith a 444E the engine sits forward enough that it wont be as hard but ultimately for any A/C to stand a chance make sure the firewall is good and sealed.. I went to great pains to reduce engine heat in both busses.. I also hush-matted the ionside of the firewall on the DEV bus since i had the wholke area in pieces.. hush mat is very sticky and is designed most for sound insulation but a side benefit is some heat insulation and also it seals up air leaks around wires, hoses, plugs, seams, etc..
there are an extreme amount of evaporators out there.. I used ProAir because they have units designed for build your own..
what I did is I used flex duct and Y-connectors. so I could locate some vents up high and some down low.. for A/C I usually close the lower ones and open the uppers.. opposite in winter.. the advantage being that if i want cool air on my feet or warm air on my hands I can adjust the vents to my desire. (vs having to choose floor for heat and upper for A/C).. when I was in texas where it was 104 and sunny this summer i had all the vents open.. blowing cool air in the footwell was nice.
here are some ideas for various inside units. that are heat / cool.. you likely want someplace aroind 20,000 BTU or more.. you can easily run about 40,000-50,000 BTU on a single compressor (esp if you use a Sanden SD7 enhanced) and a skirt condenser..
here is a Big one.. similar to what I used for my mid-ship unit.
mid size here
this is a new product that i was recently notified of that may interest some skoolie converters..
this is a combo system designed to be engoine-driven when driving and also has a 110 volt component when connected to shore power so it can be a parked A/C as well..
this is a bigger unit designed to be a custom dash unit..
the other option to consider if your driver heater box is restorable is to pull out the right side / step well unit and put your new system in place of that.. you can still work ducting to ensure heating and defrosting of the door / windsihield..
now onto condensers.. your best bet is an underbody or underskirt unit.. you can install a condenser on the roof however im not a huge fan of drilling holes in a roof and potentially creating leaks.. not to mention I dont know your plans for solar / roof deck etc..
you need to somewhat size. the condenser to the evaporator but I ternd to oversize the condenser a bit to account for under-body heat from the engine / road, etc. I have a skirt and an underbody condenser. . the farther forward you go with your condenser the more I prefer skirt as it sucks its intake air from outside the body and not underneath where engine heat is more of a factor.. I have one skirt mounted condenser right behind my air dryer and it tucked in nicely beside the air tank so it works great for my front units because its close to both evaporators up front..
proair owns ACT.. I use the bigger version of this one..
that one is 60k so maybe a tad large for a dash air..
slightly smaller version that would tuck in nicely and be good for what you are working with..
compressors.. everyone has their opinion about compressors.. there are many different ones available but i stick with genuine Sanden and use the SD7 enhanced.. those compressors have a really nice output curve. that gives a lot of bang for the RPM..
they have different bracket kits so the belt routing and pulley type would depend on what kind of bracket you find.. if you can fimd someone removing A/C from a T444E you could source your condenser, compressor, and brackets cheaper than if you buy them new.. I bought new because I wanted to know what I was getting and that it would be new and ready to go..
Proair uses Burgaflex / burgaclip fittings and Good year reduced barrier galaxy hose. . the reduced diameter hose is very easy to work with, the burgaclip fittings are easy for the DIY to crimp on and are versatile..
I have an extra pair for the crimp pliers I can send you if you decide to go this route..
Jeff at proair set mne up with pseudo Kits that included wiring, lengths of hose, fittings and the system parts.. i ended up with a lot of extra parts, however since ive cntinued to work on the climate control in multiuple busses these kits have been the gift that keeps on giving as. ifind myself pulling out the extra wiring to use for other projects, heater hose, and clips..
one of my "kits:" was designed to be a sprinter rear system so it came with cables and wires and such...
proair isnt the cheapest.and just the option I chose.. there are lots of ways to do this. . i was more concerned with building something that works than I was with $$.. and its proven successful for me.. I did have one expansion valve that was bum and it took me awhile to figure that out but that may have been my fault when I put the system together I possibly damaged it..