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Old 09-06-2021, 01:27 PM   #21
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,854
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the real thing to do is box that heater and this. https://www.4statetrucks.com/engine-...QaArBWEALw_wcB



into a 12x8 rectangle duct after bedlining the inside of it.. air gets sucked over the evap and blown over the heater and out the outlets..



then you have A/C, Heat, or refrigerated+re-heat.


OK I admit im an A/C junkie.

cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2021, 12:09 PM   #22
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the real thing to do is box that heater and this. https://www.4statetrucks.com/engine-...QaArBWEALw_wcB



into a 12x8 rectangle duct after bedlining the inside of it.. air gets sucked over the evap and blown over the heater and out the outlets..



then you have A/C, Heat, or refrigerated+re-heat.


OK I admit im an A/C junkie.
"Hi my name is cadillackid and I'm addicated to air conditioning."


I'm not yet concerned about A/C yet, I'm going to see what one mini split over the rear door does for us first; I bought a second one just in case, but I'm hoping to only have to put in one to save on complexity and energy.


Current heating plan is to redo the power to the two "underseat" bus heaters to run from the house batteries. Just need to find a thermostat that will handle two fan speeds, haven't yet searched for that one yet. I'm thinking the driver's heater will stay connected as-is for now, I might connect it to the "house" system later; I want to see how it all performs with the two heaters first.



The forced air heaters look cool, I might replace my driver's heater with one of those some day maybe...not sure. I've so far avoided all of the "complexities" of the coolant system by keeping everything connected through the build process, and hiring a shop to do a coolant flush for me.


Dunno why but I just don't have high confidence in properly refilling/burping a coolant system. Just not something I've really done yet, among many other seemingly simple automotive maintenance tasks.
dbsoundman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2021, 08:25 AM   #23
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 321
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT408 6.7L L6
Rated Cap: 14
My comprehensive diesel heating plan.

Over the last couple years, I've had more money than time, so I've purchased most of the components but haven't installed them yet.

The overall plan is a single fuel (diesel) off-grid 4 season boondocking camper.

1. I bought a New In Box Webasto Scholastic 45k Btu/h coolant heater. I managed to find one on Ebay for $1500. It is the single most expensive purchase I've made for the bus (besides the bus). I'll install this coolant heater into the coolant loop so I can have hot coolant even when the bus isn't running.

2. I bought a Dickinson Bristol diesel stove/oven. I still have to purchase the hot water loop that goes inside, but I'll pipe the hot water in my hot water heater through this loop so that anytime I run the stove, I also heat my water.

3. I bought a marine 6 gallon Kuuma water heater. These models have an internal coolant heat exchanger in addition to a 120vac electric heating coil. I plan on converting the 120vac system to 12vdc and raising the shutoff temp to about 180° F. I plan on setting up the 12vdc coil as a diversion load on my solar setup so that my excess solar will go to heat my water. So anytime I run the bus, the Webasto, have excess solar, or run the stove I will generate hot water. I also have Bricor ultra low flow shower head and faucet aerators and plan on using a thermostatic mixing valve, and a pull chain valve in the shower to further conserve hot water.

4. For cabin heating I have 2 sources. The Webasto running the hydronic heaters (either stock or Jegs), or the Dickinson stove. I spray foamed the walls and ceilings, and have foam board on the floor, so I'm pretty well insulated except the windows. I'll probably make some insulated inserts/curtains for the windows to use as needed.
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djdalfaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2021, 10:00 AM   #24
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
Quote:
Originally Posted by djdalfaro View Post
Over the last couple years, I've had more money than time, so I've purchased most of the components but haven't installed them yet.

The overall plan is a single fuel (diesel) off-grid 4 season boondocking camper.

1. I bought a New In Box Webasto Scholastic 45k Btu/h coolant heater. I managed to find one on Ebay for $1500. It is the single most expensive purchase I've made for the bus (besides the bus). I'll install this coolant heater into the coolant loop so I can have hot coolant even when the bus isn't running.

2. I bought a Dickinson Bristol diesel stove/oven. I still have to purchase the hot water loop that goes inside, but I'll pipe the hot water in my hot water heater through this loop so that anytime I run the stove, I also heat my water.

3. I bought a marine 6 gallon Kuuma water heater. These models have an internal coolant heat exchanger in addition to a 120vac electric heating coil. I plan on converting the 120vac system to 12vdc and raising the shutoff temp to about 180° F. I plan on setting up the 12vdc coil as a diversion load on my solar setup so that my excess solar will go to heat my water. So anytime I run the bus, the Webasto, have excess solar, or run the stove I will generate hot water. I also have Bricor ultra low flow shower head and faucet aerators and plan on using a thermostatic mixing valve, and a pull chain valve in the shower to further conserve hot water.

4. For cabin heating I have 2 sources. The Webasto running the hydronic heaters (either stock or Jegs), or the Dickinson stove. I spray foamed the walls and ceilings, and have foam board on the floor, so I'm pretty well insulated except the windows. I'll probably make some insulated inserts/curtains for the windows to use as needed.
I love this! I had never heard of the Kuuma! I'd love to get one eventually and plumb it in. Coolant-heated hot water sounds like a great idea.
dbsoundman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2021, 10:46 AM   #25
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 321
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT408 6.7L L6
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbsoundman View Post
... I had never heard of the Kuuma! ...
There are a few other brands, I actually cheaped out on this one, if/when it goes out, I'll probably install an IsoTemp (Webasto).
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djdalfaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2021, 06:08 PM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 59
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Corbeil
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e, Alison 2000 transmission
you can also leave the timer, basically just a relay on a timing circuit, and add a secondary three way switch. off - timer- on
off= cut power to webasto
timer= lets the timer do the control
on= wire goes to a separate relay and overrides the timer

for the water heater, check your local marine stores there are a bunch of different ones. Also if you want you can add heating pads between insulation and the tank, and divert solar energy, once the batteries are charged to the pads which will heat the water without having the diesel heater on. summer use.

Last but not least, check your heavy wrecking yards, often trucks have webasto or proheat diesel heaters in them. I found my proheat for 250C$ came out of a truck wreck.
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