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Old 03-31-2021, 05:02 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Texas panhandle
Posts: 39
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Diamond Shuttle bus
Chassis: 2000 Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 liter Power Stroke diesel
Rated Cap: 14050
I’ve installed them in the driver side back door of a stealth sleeper van. I’ve done this twice with no problems. I removed the window and built a frame to support it, and enclosed around it. I am seriously thinking of doing this on the exit door on the back of my shuttle bus. I’ll post pics later.

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Old 03-31-2021, 07:38 PM   #22
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Northern California (Sacramento)
Posts: 634
Year: 1999
Coachwork: El Dorado Fiberglass
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: V10 Gas
Shuttle buses have emergency exit windows that tilt out. I reserved one of those windows for a future room AC unit. The unit will run on shore power or generator I have yet to buy.

In the off season the AC unit will roll under the bed.
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Old 03-31-2021, 08:04 PM   #23
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 339
Year: 2003
Chassis: E-450
Engine: 7.3 Turbo
Just to update, we’ve been using a standard window A/C installed in the normal bus window (top slid down) for the past several years and it works great. We take it out when driving or when it’s not hot enough. We only need it to cool the bus down after a hot day for sleeping or if we’re hanging out in it reading, watching birds, etc while at home.

If in the wilderness and truly need it, we’ll run a generator at night to run it to get the temps reasonable for sleeping.

When out traveling, we’re out of the bus far more than in it.

Keep in mind, we only have a 6 window shorty.

For us it works and cost nothing.

May be worth considering or trying.
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Old 03-31-2021, 10:19 PM   #24
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 779
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
Who knows if they will continue to make the physically small 5kbtu window rattlers, but based on measurements for my window openings and the a/c unit, it should slide right in.

I plan on storing it when driving. Adding a removable support bracket setup. Then putting in the a/c unit when I want to use it.

Most important to me is that the temperature in my sleeping area allows me to be comfortable (62 degrees is wonderful). So, the propane furnace is, and the a/c will be, by my sleeping area.

The way I see it, if the 5k unit doesn't meet my needs, I'll upgrade.
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Old 04-03-2021, 09:48 PM   #25
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Tavares, Florida
Posts: 157
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: Caterpillar 3116
Rated Cap: 78?
I currently have a window unit in the front and a portable in the back, but plan on a mini-split here soon.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg window ac (2).jpg (113.3 KB, 8 views)
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Old 04-03-2021, 10:12 PM   #26
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,471
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I have a Minisplit in the main cabin, but I keep a window unit for the garage that can be removed easily. Use it when parked with shore power. Had to trim about 1/4" off the top of one window frame and it slid right in.

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Old 09-18-2021, 08:53 PM   #27
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 341
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
In my first bus, I cut a hole above the rear E-door and installed a small window unit. Only used it when we could plug in at a camp ground. I don't remember what BTU it was.
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Old 09-20-2021, 08:40 PM   #28
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 55
Year: 2008
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: IC CE300
Engine: Maxxforce DT
I have a 5000 btus Frigidaire window AC for 27 ft skoolie, permanently placed above the rear door. With 85F outside, I can cool down to 75F and maintain that during 6 hours, powered by 4x100Ah AGM batteries (+3000w inverter), draining down to 12.2V ish.
Insulation is 1 inch polycyanate foam + 3/4 inch plywood on floor, 1 inch rigid foam on ceiling, original windows.
I noticed that if I first use a box fan strapped to the opened roof emergency exit, for 1h, to extract hot air and bring in new cooler air from outside with open windows, it helps quite a bit before turning AC on. The bus shell thermal mass is fairly small and cools fast.
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Old 09-21-2021, 02:48 AM   #29
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,096
Year: 1990
Coachwork: integral
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
I've installed (but not yet evacuated) a Pioneer 12K mini-split with heat pump for the front of the bus, but for the bedroom in the back I plan on using a small 5K or 6K window A/C in the middle overhead cabinet above the bed. I'll put it on a slide mount, so when it's in use it will be slid out for unobstructed air flow, then when not in use it will slide back in and be invisible from outside. With eight golfcart batteries I should be able to run it intermittently for most of the night, unless it's so stinking hot in which case I'll drive somewhere cooler. That's what wheels are for!

John
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Old 09-21-2021, 11:25 AM   #30
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Northern California (Sacramento)
Posts: 634
Year: 1999
Coachwork: El Dorado Fiberglass
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: V10 Gas
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
I've installed (but not yet evacuated) a Pioneer 12K mini-split with heat pump for the front of the bus, but for the bedroom in the back I plan on using a small 5K or 6K window A/C in the middle overhead cabinet above the bed. I'll put it on a slide mount, so when it's in use it will be slid out for unobstructed air flow, then when not in use it will slide back in and be invisible from outside. With eight golfcart batteries I should be able to run it intermittently for most of the night, unless it's so stinking hot in which case I'll drive somewhere cooler. That's what wheels are for!

John
Very cool idea-slide for the AC.

Pun intended.
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Old 09-21-2021, 06:02 PM   #31
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 1,794
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
just remember when pulled out it still needs some way to drain to wherever
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Old 09-21-2021, 07:25 PM   #32
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 550
Year: 1996
Coachwork: AmTran (Now Navistar)
Engine: DT444E (7.3L) International
Rated Cap: 31,800 pounds
There are "through wall" air conditioners available that would work in a rear installation. The intake and exhaust air is all routed to/from the rear of the unit instead of the sides. They can be mounted inside a metal sleeve and have a much or as little as you desire/need exposed on the rear. This allows permanent installation without needing to slide things around.
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Old 09-23-2021, 12:25 PM   #33
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Just south of Dallas.
Posts: 169
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 40' MVP-ER
Engine: Cat 3126
I originally put a 6K? 8k? window unit in the back bedroom.
I tried two different units. (My tip here is besides the btu spec. pay special attention to the fan Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) spec. They vary greatly.)

Not only did it look ghetto af it wasn't sufficient in N.Texas summers.
(BTW, The first thing a park will ask you when you tell them its a Skoolie is "Do you have window units?")


Replaced with a 9k minisplit (in addition to the 12K mini split in the front.)

STILL isn't sufficient up front in N.Texas summers. Bedroom is a meat locker if I want, but the battery drain is not negligible!!! (3200 watts on roof/13K+ battery bank)
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