Why no window A/C? - Page 2

DoninTexas · 03-31-2021, 04:02 PM

I’ve installed them in the driver side back door of a stealth sleeper van. I’ve done this twice with no problems. I removed the window and built a frame to support it, and enclosed around it. I am seriously thinking of doing this on the exit door on the back of my shuttle bus. I’ll post pics later.

Rucker · 03-31-2021, 06:38 PM

Shuttle buses have emergency exit windows that tilt out. I reserved one of those windows for a future room AC unit. The unit will run on shore power or generator I have yet to buy.

In the off season the AC unit will roll under the bed.

PigPen · 03-31-2021, 07:04 PM

Just to update, we’ve been using a standard window A/C installed in the normal bus window (top slid down) for the past several years and it works great. We take it out when driving or when it’s not hot enough. We only need it to cool the bus down after a hot day for sleeping or if we’re hanging out in it reading, watching birds, etc while at home.

If in the wilderness and truly need it, we’ll run a generator at night to run it to get the temps reasonable for sleeping.

When out traveling, we’re out of the bus far more than in it.

Keep in mind, we only have a 6 window shorty.

For us it works and cost nothing.

May be worth considering or trying.

Simplicity · 03-31-2021, 09:19 PM

Who knows if they will continue to make the physically small 5kbtu window rattlers, but based on measurements for my window openings and the a/c unit, it should slide right in.

I plan on storing it when driving. Adding a removable support bracket setup. Then putting in the a/c unit when I want to use it.

Most important to me is that the temperature in my sleeping area allows me to be comfortable (62 degrees is wonderful). So, the propane furnace is, and the a/c will be, by my sleeping area.

The way I see it, if the 5k unit doesn't meet my needs, I'll upgrade.

Scott Marcano · 04-03-2021, 08:48 PM

I currently have a window unit in the front and a portable in the back, but plan on a mini-split here soon.

o1marc · 04-03-2021, 09:12 PM

I have a Minisplit in the main cabin, but I keep a window unit for the garage that can be removed easily. Use it when parked with shore power. Had to trim about 1/4" off the top of one window frame and it slid right in.

BarnYardCamp · 09-18-2021, 07:53 PM

In my first bus, I cut a hole above the rear E-door and installed a small window unit. Only used it when we could plug in at a camp ground. I don't remember what BTU it was.

Seb1 · 09-20-2021, 07:40 PM

I have a 5000 btus Frigidaire window AC for 27 ft skoolie, permanently placed above the rear door. With 85F outside, I can cool down to 75F and maintain that during 6 hours, powered by 4x100Ah AGM batteries (+3000w inverter), draining down to 12.2V ish.
Insulation is 1 inch polycyanate foam + 3/4 inch plywood on floor, 1 inch rigid foam on ceiling, original windows.
I noticed that if I first use a box fan strapped to the opened roof emergency exit, for 1h, to extract hot air and bring in new cooler air from outside with open windows, it helps quite a bit before turning AC on. The bus shell thermal mass is fairly small and cools fast.

Iceni John · 09-21-2021, 01:48 AM

I've installed (but not yet evacuated) a Pioneer 12K mini-split with heat pump for the front of the bus, but for the bedroom in the back I plan on using a small 5K or 6K window A/C in the middle overhead cabinet above the bed. I'll put it on a slide mount, so when it's in use it will be slid out for unobstructed air flow, then when not in use it will slide back in and be invisible from outside. With eight golfcart batteries I should be able to run it intermittently for most of the night, unless it's so stinking hot in which case I'll drive somewhere cooler. That's what wheels are for!

John

Rucker · 09-21-2021, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iceni John

I've installed (but not yet evacuated) a Pioneer 12K mini-split with heat pump for the front of the bus, but for the bedroom in the back I plan on using a small 5K or 6K window A/C in the middle overhead cabinet above the bed. I'll put it on a slide mount, so when it's in use it will be slid out for unobstructed air flow, then when not in use it will slide back in and be invisible from outside. With eight golfcart batteries I should be able to run it intermittently for most of the night, unless it's so stinking hot in which case I'll drive somewhere cooler. That's what wheels are for!

John

Very cool idea-slide for the AC.

Pun intended.

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 09-21-2021, 05:02 PM

just remember when pulled out it still needs some way to drain to wherever

HamSkoolie · 09-21-2021, 06:25 PM

There are "through wall" air conditioners available that would work in a rear installation. The intake and exhaust air is all routed to/from the rear of the unit instead of the sides. They can be mounted inside a metal sleeve and have a much or as little as you desire/need exposed on the rear. This allows permanent installation without needing to slide things around.

shaymcquaid · 09-23-2021, 11:25 AM

I originally put a 6K? 8k? window unit in the back bedroom.
I tried two different units. (My tip here is besides the btu spec. pay special attention to the fan Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) spec. They vary greatly.)

Not only did it look ghetto af it wasn't sufficient in N.Texas summers.
(BTW, The first thing a park will ask you when you tell them its a Skoolie is "Do you have window units?")

Replaced with a 9k minisplit (in addition to the 12K mini split in the front.)

STILL isn't sufficient up front in N.Texas summers. Bedroom is a meat locker if I want, but the battery drain is not negligible!!! (3200 watts on roof/13K+ battery bank)

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