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Old 09-09-2018, 02:43 PM   #1
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Window A/C Power

I’m considering removing the factory split system that came on my 2003 Ford 7.3 World Trans 6 window and replacing with a window unit above the back door.

I would like to be able to power this unit when on the road and when parked. I understand I could use shore power when parked, but what’s the best way to power this unit when on the road? Is it a battery bank that’s being fed by the alternator with an isolator in-line and an inverter attached the the battery bank?

Thoughts or directions to any other post discussing the same thing?

Thank you!

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Old 09-09-2018, 03:19 PM   #2
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Need a genny for when not driving.
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Old 09-09-2018, 03:23 PM   #3
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Need a genny for when not driving.
Yes, I understand that. I’m asking about when I’m driving the best way to power it.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:06 PM   #4
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Compatible inverter would run it for awhile.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:38 PM   #5
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Yes get a good big enough inverter.

Wire directly to circuit with big fresh battery and alt/starter, fat enough wiring.

Get batt fully charged.

If alt puts out enough amps can run all day.

If not will run down the bat.

Need an ammeter to know.
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Old 09-10-2018, 05:32 PM   #6
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Has anyone here wired an isolator between the main battery bank to an aux group of batteries that in turn powers the inverter, which the window unit is wired/plugged to?

Recommended isolator brands?
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:12 PM   #7
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Blue Sea's ACRs.

ML type us best but pricier.

Isolator implies old style diode based, which incurs too much voltage drop, and is one-way only.
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:13 PM   #8
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If Alt is the only off-grid charge source, an ign wired solenoid is only $50.
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:17 PM   #9
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great idea except a window unit isnt going to begin to cool you while driving....



-Christopher
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:38 PM   #10
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great idea except a window unit isnt going to begin to cool you while driving....



-Christopher
Even with spray foam insulation floor to ceiling on a 6 window bus with half of those covered in sheet metal and foamed over?
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:43 PM   #11
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Blue Sea's ACRs.

ML type us best but pricier.

Isolator implies old style diode based, which incurs too much voltage drop, and is one-way only.
http://www.perfectswitch.com/isolators/

These are pricey, but don’t have the drop like a mechanical isolator. MOSFET diodes.
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:41 PM   #12
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I have a 10 window bus. I spray foamed 2"~ everywhere. I removed all the windows and installed brand new RV windows. I then installed a dometic brisk duo therm ii 15000 btu. It is a third of the way back from the front of the bus. I'm in Central Florida. It gets the bus cool enough to work in. It's about 90+ degrees outside each day. The lowest I can get thermostat to read is 86° for inside temp. Under the unit it gets fairly cold. The thermostat is located above the windshield at this point. My point is that You are going to need a large window unit if it's hot out and your driving.
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:45 PM   #13
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I have a 10 window bus. I spray foamed 2"~ everywhere. I removed all the windows and installed brand new RV windows. I then installed a dometic brisk duo therm ii 15000 btu. It is a third of the way back from the front of the bus. I'm in Central Florida. It gets the bus cool enough to work in. It's about 90+ degrees outside each day. The lowest I can get thermostat to read is 86° for inside temp. Under the unit it gets fairly cold. The thermostat is located above the windshield at this point. My point is that You are going to need a large window unit if it's hot out and your driving.
Thanks for the reply. What would be considered a large window for a 6 window?

Are any of your windows covered? Any type of tint or shade?
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:04 PM   #14
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Thanks for the reply. What would be considered a large window for a 6 window?

Are any of your windows covered? Any type of tint or shade?
Maybe 15000 btu? Do they come bigger for a window sized unit?

I forgot to mention I also have a 14x22 skylight. I have some pink foam board crammed up in to block out some of the heat. The skylight is not tinted,.mistake number 1 lol.

The RV windows are tinted but no blinds up yet. Still have to finish the build out and paint.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:26 PM   #15
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for driving, keep the dash air... most of those systems you can remove the rear evaporator, re-plumb, re-condensor and keep the dashboard A/C.. im assuming you have the rear unit plus you have dash board A/C (like a van would have).. most likely they share a compressor and have an underskirt condensor.. you can yank the rear inside unit, and the underskirt condensor.. then go junkyarding, find the pieces from a cargo van to make your dash A/C work by itself.. then you have good driving A/C..



-Christopher
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Old 09-11-2018, 09:38 AM   #16
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for driving, keep the dash air... most of those systems you can remove the rear evaporator, re-plumb, re-condensor and keep the dashboard A/C.. im assuming you have the rear unit plus you have dash board A/C (like a van would have).. most likely they share a compressor and have an underskirt condensor.. you can yank the rear inside unit, and the underskirt condensor.. then go junkyarding, find the pieces from a cargo van to make your dash A/C work by itself.. then you have good driving A/C..



-Christopher
I've already pulled the aux/bus air. I'm keeping the dash air, which is ran off a separate electric/non-belt driven compressor. I'm turning the old bus air compressor, that is belt driven, into an on board air set-up. It took be awhile to figure out the dash air and bus air didn't share a compressor. I've never see a non-belt driven compressor before, but I assume the bus builder ordered it that way to allow for room to install the Sanden belt driven compressor that ran the aux/bus air.

Since I've not gotten a clear answer on what to replace the aux/bus air system with, I'm still searching for the right set-up, be it a window type unit or a rooftop.

The price of a rooftop and unclear answers on how well they cool have me leaning toward a larger than 5k BTU window style unit, but I don't know what size BTU unit to go with. It's a short, 6 window, cutaway that will be spray foamed with half the windows covered and insulated, so I thought a larger window style unit would cool well when parked and when running in conjunction with the dash air when on the road. Maybe I'm wrong....
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:08 AM   #17
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5k window units are cheap. If not doesn't keep up, you can upgrade. But, the rooftop 15000 would probably work well for you
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:45 AM   #18
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5k window units are cheap. If not doesn't keep up, you can upgrade. But, the rooftop 15000 would probably work well for you
Yeah, just trying to avoid spending on a small "cheap" unit and then turning around to buy something larger. I'd rather spend more and get the right thing to start with, I just can't get an answer on what the right thing is for this set-up. Seems like everyone has different experiences depending on bus size, where they live and their expectations.

I'm in Texas, so I want it cold in the Summer. I hope that 50% of the windows being covered, the fact it's a short bus and well insulated will result in what I'm looking for. I'll also be running the dash air when on the road.
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:47 AM   #19
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I have 24000 BTU of mini split and 2” of spray foam in my 36’. Original windows/doors. If it is hot and sunny, it’s hot while driving unless you’re right in front of a unit.

Bus will cool pretty well with only one unit while parked as long as it can run full time and isn’t starting from a high temp inside.
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Old 09-11-2018, 12:47 PM   #20
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Can always partition off part of the space to lower temps and energy usage.

"Cold" in hot Texas days is a big ask, hope you're plugging into shore power when stationary, or that's going to be a very expensive setup.
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