Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-09-2018, 02:43 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Window A/C Power

Iím considering removing the factory split system that came on my 2003 Ford 7.3 World Trans 6 window and replacing with a window unit above the back door.

I would like to be able to power this unit when on the road and when parked. I understand I could use shore power when parked, but whatís the best way to power this unit when on the road? Is it a battery bank thatís being fed by the alternator with an isolator in-line and an inverter attached the the battery bank?

Thoughts or directions to any other post discussing the same thing?

Thank you!
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2018, 03:19 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,602
Need a genny for when not driving.
john61ct is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2018, 03:23 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct View Post
Need a genny for when not driving.
Yes, I understand that. Iím asking about when Iím driving the best way to power it.
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2018, 06:06 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Compatible inverter would run it for awhile.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2018, 06:38 PM   #5
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,602
Yes get a good big enough inverter.

Wire directly to circuit with big fresh battery and alt/starter, fat enough wiring.

Get batt fully charged.

If alt puts out enough amps can run all day.

If not will run down the bat.

Need an ammeter to know.
john61ct is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 05:32 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Has anyone here wired an isolator between the main battery bank to an aux group of batteries that in turn powers the inverter, which the window unit is wired/plugged to?

Recommended isolator brands?
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 07:12 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,602
Blue Sea's ACRs.

ML type us best but pricier.

Isolator implies old style diode based, which incurs too much voltage drop, and is one-way only.
john61ct is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 07:13 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,602
If Alt is the only off-grid charge source, an ign wired solenoid is only $50.
john61ct is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 07:17 PM   #9
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 12,821
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
great idea except a window unit isnt going to begin to cool you while driving....



-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 08:38 PM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
great idea except a window unit isnt going to begin to cool you while driving....



-Christopher
Even with spray foam insulation floor to ceiling on a 6 window bus with half of those covered in sheet metal and foamed over?
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 08:43 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct View Post
Blue Sea's ACRs.

ML type us best but pricier.

Isolator implies old style diode based, which incurs too much voltage drop, and is one-way only.
http://www.perfectswitch.com/isolators/

These are pricey, but donít have the drop like a mechanical isolator. MOSFET diodes.
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 09:41 PM   #12
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 905
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
I have a 10 window bus. I spray foamed 2"~ everywhere. I removed all the windows and installed brand new RV windows. I then installed a dometic brisk duo therm ii 15000 btu. It is a third of the way back from the front of the bus. I'm in Central Florida. It gets the bus cool enough to work in. It's about 90+ degrees outside each day. The lowest I can get thermostat to read is 86į for inside temp. Under the unit it gets fairly cold. The thermostat is located above the windshield at this point. My point is that You are going to need a large window unit if it's hot out and your driving.
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 09:45 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty View Post
I have a 10 window bus. I spray foamed 2"~ everywhere. I removed all the windows and installed brand new RV windows. I then installed a dometic brisk duo therm ii 15000 btu. It is a third of the way back from the front of the bus. I'm in Central Florida. It gets the bus cool enough to work in. It's about 90+ degrees outside each day. The lowest I can get thermostat to read is 86į for inside temp. Under the unit it gets fairly cold. The thermostat is located above the windshield at this point. My point is that You are going to need a large window unit if it's hot out and your driving.
Thanks for the reply. What would be considered a large window for a 6 window?

Are any of your windows covered? Any type of tint or shade?
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 10:04 PM   #14
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 905
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjatheart View Post
Thanks for the reply. What would be considered a large window for a 6 window?

Are any of your windows covered? Any type of tint or shade?
Maybe 15000 btu? Do they come bigger for a window sized unit?

I forgot to mention I also have a 14x22 skylight. I have some pink foam board crammed up in to block out some of the heat. The skylight is not tinted,.mistake number 1 lol.

The RV windows are tinted but no blinds up yet. Still have to finish the build out and paint.
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2018, 10:26 PM   #15
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 12,821
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
for driving, keep the dash air... most of those systems you can remove the rear evaporator, re-plumb, re-condensor and keep the dashboard A/C.. im assuming you have the rear unit plus you have dash board A/C (like a van would have).. most likely they share a compressor and have an underskirt condensor.. you can yank the rear inside unit, and the underskirt condensor.. then go junkyarding, find the pieces from a cargo van to make your dash A/C work by itself.. then you have good driving A/C..



-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2018, 09:38 AM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
for driving, keep the dash air... most of those systems you can remove the rear evaporator, re-plumb, re-condensor and keep the dashboard A/C.. im assuming you have the rear unit plus you have dash board A/C (like a van would have).. most likely they share a compressor and have an underskirt condensor.. you can yank the rear inside unit, and the underskirt condensor.. then go junkyarding, find the pieces from a cargo van to make your dash A/C work by itself.. then you have good driving A/C..



-Christopher
I've already pulled the aux/bus air. I'm keeping the dash air, which is ran off a separate electric/non-belt driven compressor. I'm turning the old bus air compressor, that is belt driven, into an on board air set-up. It took be awhile to figure out the dash air and bus air didn't share a compressor. I've never see a non-belt driven compressor before, but I assume the bus builder ordered it that way to allow for room to install the Sanden belt driven compressor that ran the aux/bus air.

Since I've not gotten a clear answer on what to replace the aux/bus air system with, I'm still searching for the right set-up, be it a window type unit or a rooftop.

The price of a rooftop and unclear answers on how well they cool have me leaning toward a larger than 5k BTU window style unit, but I don't know what size BTU unit to go with. It's a short, 6 window, cutaway that will be spray foamed with half the windows covered and insulated, so I thought a larger window style unit would cool well when parked and when running in conjunction with the dash air when on the road. Maybe I'm wrong....
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2018, 11:08 AM   #17
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 905
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
5k window units are cheap. If not doesn't keep up, you can upgrade. But, the rooftop 15000 would probably work well for you
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2018, 11:45 AM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty View Post
5k window units are cheap. If not doesn't keep up, you can upgrade. But, the rooftop 15000 would probably work well for you
Yeah, just trying to avoid spending on a small "cheap" unit and then turning around to buy something larger. I'd rather spend more and get the right thing to start with, I just can't get an answer on what the right thing is for this set-up. Seems like everyone has different experiences depending on bus size, where they live and their expectations.

I'm in Texas, so I want it cold in the Summer. I hope that 50% of the windows being covered, the fact it's a short bus and well insulated will result in what I'm looking for. I'll also be running the dash air when on the road.
Fjatheart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2018, 11:47 AM   #19
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,406
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
I have 24000 BTU of mini split and 2Ē of spray foam in my 36í. Original windows/doors. If it is hot and sunny, itís hot while driving unless youíre right in front of a unit.

Bus will cool pretty well with only one unit while parked as long as it can run full time and isnít starting from a high temp inside.
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2018, 12:47 PM   #20
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,602
Can always partition off part of the space to lower temps and energy usage.

"Cold" in hot Texas days is a big ask, hope you're plugging into shore power when stationary, or that's going to be a very expensive setup.
john61ct is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×