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Old 11-18-2017, 04:52 PM   #21
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i imagine you do not have enough draft . that chimney should be pretty clean and the outside section need to be insulated so that your stack stays hot. We burn wood in our house and the elbows are no a real problem as long as they are clean. 45 are better and straight is best but insulated pipe will do more.

good luck J

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Old 11-30-2017, 10:43 PM   #22
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In the spirit of due diligence, I thought I would post a little update.

Finally got back into the bush for a crack at the chimney repair. It's no wonder I was having a progressively worse problem getting a good draw. In about two months the pipes had become terribly cruded up. I guess this is what happens when it's not burning hot enough.

It's running much better with all 6" pipe and two 90 degree elbows. I wasn't able to make the 45's fit (good thing I had two though, I was needing an extra 90 degree). The stove isn't stalling at the back anymore, isn't blowing back when the door is open, and is burning through the ironwood nicely.

I just need to come up with a scheme to support the stack to the side and roof of the bus. I have an idea to make a three legged tripod with magnets for the feet, then hopefully I don't have to drill any holes. I've been saving rare earth magnets from old hard drives, so I have plenty to work with (incidentally hard drive magnets are awesome to have on hand when your ceiling is metal! I hang all kinds of stuff in the bus with magnets)

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Old 12-01-2017, 07:35 AM   #23
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wow!! good thing you never did have a hot fire, that wouldve been a disaster if a chimney fire ignited..

I Love hard drive magnets. esp loved the ones I used to get from the old 5 1/4" seagate full height drives back in the day when they died almost daily...

-Christopher
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Old 12-01-2017, 09:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I Love hard drive magnets. esp loved the ones I used to get from the old 5 1/4" seagate full height drives back in the day when they died almost daily...
Indeed, it seems the older ones have the good thick magnets. I've opened a few that only had one thin one, what a gyp...
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Old 12-01-2017, 02:39 PM   #25
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Your parking area looks well protected from much wind but unless you get zero winds, you should go for something more substantial than magnets, no matter how many you use. Maybe get an old tv tower section and put it in the ground so it's strong enough to support the piping. You don't want that piping to bend, come apart and hang if you have a good fire going in a blizzard let's say. Maybe relocate your stove so you can go thru the back wall as I did and not thru the window or roof. I went out the spot for the upper driver side rear flashing light was. Pipe is solid and same outside.
I noticed you mentioned creosote dripping outside on the bus. That is a good thing, at least it is making it out. A dampered down stove is not a good thing. Burn it hot to avoid clogged pipes like you had, even if you have to reload it more often. Build a smaller fire and run that sucker wide open. If it's too hot, open a door or window, move away to another area of the bus but don't be afraid of running really hot. The pipes can take the heat and will remain unclogged for quite a while.
Actually with that dirty pipe, a chimney fire may have been the best thing to happen. If you get one, let it burn out, don't put it out. They don't last long but remain vigilant.

John
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Old 12-01-2017, 03:54 PM   #26
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Yeah I totally hear you about running it hot. Under my new system I was able to get it up to about 30 degrees inside when it was -10 outside and it was no trouble burning through the Ironwood. Love hearing that stove motor running. So I think my new setup should work pretty good when I refine it and stabilize.

The wind isn't too bad, but I doubt it will last the winter the way I currently have it set up, and definitely don't want it falling down when it's roaring. I just thought of some long steel fence poles I have that could help support the stack. Another idea I just had was to try starting with a 45 right at the stove and run a long pipe to outside. But at least I know current setup will work. Hopefully I'll get one more chance to drive in and rejig before it turns into a 3km snowshoe in.

Inside:


Outside:
This was just a temp setup to make sure the draw would be ok, it was afterdark and below zero and I didn't have the right parts, so I had to start improvising fast My intent is to shorten the length of pipe going out the window, once I get that stack a lot closer to the bus, it will be much easier to deal with. I'll swap the two 45's outside with a single 90 once I can buy one. I'm also going to swap the insulated rain cap, with a regular rain cap. That will be a lot less weight swinging around on the top. Next I need a sort of wall collar that will attach by the window eyebrow. And then either a tripod on the roof, or a couple poles running up each side, or some other idea... Also I will swap the foil tape with red hightemp silicone to seal those joints. It was getting rainy and didn't want to come back to a stove full of water...

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Old 12-01-2017, 04:19 PM   #27
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Sounds to me like you have your stovepipe in upside down. No rain will come in if the higher section overlaps the piece below it. No tape needed or sealant. You might have to change it inside to get that pattern happening.
I would also install a damper in the first section coming out of the stove. All that lost heat going up the chimney doesn't warm the bus much. That bus should be warmer than 30* inside at -40f. At times mine drives me out it is so hot.
I have fans at either end of the bus to move that heat around at times but mostly it migrates well on its own.
A longer stove pipe inside the bus would help for sure but might make it harder to light the fire and keep it going until all that air in that pipe gets warm enough to set up a natural draft. A small fire generally overcomes that and then throw on some bigger wood.
You might seriously look for a better stove too imho. Firebrick inside, no window in the door and at least a 6" chimney fitting. I found one with a catalytic converter to help make it burn cleaner with little ash residue.
If that bus stays put, anchor the chimney pipe well outside but make it so it can come apart too if necessary to clean or change the pipes in future.
You have a nice spot so enjoy and keep warm as safe as possible.

John
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Old 12-01-2017, 04:28 PM   #28
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lol this is my better stove, but yeah one day I'll get a fancy hi-tech air tight model. Actually I'd love one of those ones that actually converts the heat energy into power with electrical outlets on the side. Double efficiency, heat and power! Good idea to add a damper into the mix. Also thinking about turning that outside 90 into a T with a capped bottom for easier clean out.

I have the pipes set up so the crimps are at the bottom, I had read that way the creosote flows downward properly ?

Under my old system I had a lot of leakage around the elbow (I think). I'm thinking it was leaking where I had put screws into the pipe or else the 4" low gauge elbows just weren't up to the task. Not putting screws into pipe this time. They rotted out in only a couple years.
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:23 AM   #29
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I know it's an old post, and thus probably moot, but couldn't you cut down or remove the legs of the taller stove to regain the benefit of the longer vertical draw?
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:54 AM   #30
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I ran my stove out the window as a temporary solution for a season and had the same struggles and problems. Poor draw, weak fire, and trying to make the 90deg cluster funk stand up outside the bus. lol

When I had a few hours I got a 24tooth jig saw blade and cut a hole in the roof, easy and smooth. So much better of a fire..
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