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Old 09-25-2020, 10:43 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
So I have my BlueFire gadget and BlueFire for Trucks installed on my iPad. I just plug in the gadget and connect from the app and that's it? Does the ignition need to be on for this to work, or is it powered up all the time?

Question: there is a pushbutton of some sort next to the port on my bus. What is that for?
Well this answers a question I had from your other thread. This allows to run engine diagnostic and get any active and inactive codes. I copied this from another web site:

To read codes, turn key on but do not start engine, press engine diag. button. After several seconds oil/water light will flash once, then the warn engine light will flash a series of flashes separated by pauses. For instance, 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes would be code 123. If there is more than one active code the oil/water light will flash once between codes. After active codes are displayed oil/water light will flash twice then inactive codes will be displayed, after all codes are read oil/water light will flash 3 times.
Active codes cannot be cleared until the faulty condition is corrected. To clear inactive codes, press engine diag. button and hold down, turn key on but do not start. Depress accelerator pedal all the way to the floor 3 times, turn key off. Release engine diag. button and wait 20 or 30 seconds to allow ECM time to clear codes.

These should be the codes. https://hnctruckparts.com/service-in...ble-code-index

And yes the key needs to be on for the Bluefire to read info but does remain powered up when the key is off.
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Old 09-25-2020, 12:08 PM   #42
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yes the key needs to be on.. im surprised though on a 2003 you'd only have a 6 pin connector when you have an allison 2000 transmission.. it should be 9 pin to account for someone connecting a transmission or ABS diagnostic tool up..





but wait.. why do you think you blew the engine? what happened to it?
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Old 09-25-2020, 12:33 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
yes the key needs to be on.. im surprised though on a 2003 you'd only have a 6 pin connector when you have an allison 2000 transmission.. it should be 9 pin to account for someone connecting a transmission or ABS diagnostic tool up..

but wait.. why do you think you blew the engine? what happened to it?
I have a 9 pin connector. I think somebody else on the thread here said they had a 6 pin.

I mentioned in the fuel starvation thread that I was driving the bus today and whereas before the power would cut off at high RPMs, today it almost cut off completely and I could barely limp up the hill. While limping up the engine warning light came on, although the light was gone after I shut the engine off and restarted. "Blew the engine" is hopefully exaggeration, but I am worried that I may have done some more severe damage.
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Old 09-25-2020, 12:35 PM   #44
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its really hard to damage the engine with fuel starvation.. now getting air in the injector rails is a real possiblility.. and it will sound like hell if that happens. . and run rough too..
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Old 09-25-2020, 12:37 PM   #45
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its really hard to damage the engine with fuel starvation.. now getting air in the injector rails is a real possiblility.. and it will sound like hell if that happens. . and run rough too..
It doesn't sound the kind of thing I'll be able to fix on my own (nothing related to the drive train does, really). I'm already about to pay large $$$ to this shop for my exhaust and brakes. How much would I expect to pay to have this air situation straightened out? Ironically enough it's the reason I took it to the shop in the first place.

Is it the king of thing that will eventually clear itself?
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Old 09-25-2020, 02:30 PM   #46
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Plugging the adapter into the diagnostic port (the one you just found) will "boot" the adapter. Ocne up, the BlueFire app and it will try to connect to the adapter all on its own. There is some setup you need to do. On my machine, I had to turn on both the J1708 and J1939 parameters because some gauges ae on one interface and some on the other. You also have to set up a dashboard ... if you want to see gauges. There is an "engine" button on the main screen that is a test readout of most items that are needed for engine diagnostics ... RPM, temperatures, boost pressure, etc.


I am not sure of he use of the button. Somewhere in the back of my head I remember it being a test of the interface or to put the technician diagnostic equipment into a certain state. I really do not remember.


Note: You will probably want to turn down the illumination setting on the adapter as the LED's are quite bright. I have mine set to 10%. I can see the lights fine in the day and they are not distracting at night.
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Old 09-25-2020, 03:11 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus View Post
Well this answers a question I had from your other thread. This allows to run engine diagnostic and get any active and inactive codes. I copied this from another web site:

To read codes, turn key on but do not start engine, press engine diag. button. After several seconds oil/water light will flash once, then the warn engine light will flash a series of flashes separated by pauses. For instance, 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes would be code 123. If there is more than one active code the oil/water light will flash once between codes. After active codes are displayed oil/water light will flash twice then inactive codes will be displayed, after all codes are read oil/water light will flash 3 times.
Active codes cannot be cleared until the faulty condition is corrected. To clear inactive codes, press engine diag. button and hold down, turn key on but do not start. Depress accelerator pedal all the way to the floor 3 times, turn key off. Release engine diag. button and wait 20 or 30 seconds to allow ECM time to clear codes.

These should be the codes. https://hnctruckparts.com/service-in...ble-code-index

And yes the key needs to be on for the Bluefire to read info but does remain powered up when the key is off.
Thank you so much for this. I did the diagnostics and got

Quote:
112 ECM PWR Electrical system voltage B+ out-of-range high
One that I thought was 222 but that doesn't exist, so maybe it was

Quote:
122 MAP Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure signal out-of-range low
and also

Quote:
333 ICP SYS Injection Control Pressure above/below desired level
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Old 09-25-2020, 03:16 PM   #48
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112 - sometimes a failed voltage regulator will push the battery voltage too high which can cause issues..


222 is a brake switch.. used for cruise control and brake lights..



the ICP sensor mis-reading can cause stumbling.. though not air in the lines..



when tyou start and drive does your bluefire show the battery voltage? it should not be any higher than 14.5 or so if its rippin high at like 16 volts plus then the regulator is likely bad or the field sense wire (if connected) has low voltage..



code 122, 333 will turn on the WARN light... the others wont
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Old 09-25-2020, 03:20 PM   #49
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First time with BlueFire

Hooked up my BlueFire and got it working with my iPod touch. The iOS app is just so bad - took me a while to figure out that you have to be in landscape just to get out of the dashboard, and it doesn't really function on an iPad since the picker you use for selecting gauges doesn't show up (it occurs to me this might be because of my bluetooth keyboard, need to check that out).

I was surprised to see that with text gauges and just the stuff from the physical dashboard, the teeny iPod Touch works perfectly well.

I was very happy to learn that the true mileage is 156,000 which is only 4000 miles over what the dashboard odometer says. So my engine has 36K on it after a rebuild. The true hours are somehow lower than what the dash says - 7900 from BlueFire vs. about 8300 on the dash.
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Old 09-25-2020, 03:25 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
112 - sometimes a failed voltage regulator will push the battery voltage too high which can cause issues..


222 is a brake switch.. used for cruise control and brake lights..



the ICP sensor mis-reading can cause stumbling.. though not air in the lines..



when tyou start and drive does your bluefire show the battery voltage? it should not be any higher than 14.5 or so if its rippin high at like 16 volts plus then the regulator is likely bad or the field sense wire (if connected) has low voltage..



code 122, 333 will turn on the WARN light... the others wont
I didn't really drive the bus with the bluefire attached, only enough to get the bus up on my leveling blocks. I think the battery level has always looked OK but I'll have to add that to my dashboard and see.

I assume 333 was the code I just got trying to go uphill today. Is that a likely code to be thrown by air in the injectors?

I feel like I'm going to have to get the bus towed to the mechanic's for my appointment next thursday, since there's no way to get away from my parking lot without going up hills that it can't make any more. Maybe I can find a mobile mechanic.
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Old 09-25-2020, 03:28 PM   #51
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Let's hope you can find the air leak in the fuel line before then!
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Old 09-25-2020, 03:33 PM   #52
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Let's hope you can find the air leak in the fuel line before then!
I'm probably misunderstanding things, but I think that once I get air in the injectors finding the air leak won't help me. I checked the priming pump again today after running the engine a bit and I got fuel rather than the froth, so I'm wondering if maybe this whole thing was caused by my almost running out of fuel and I could have fixed the problem easily after it first happened with the priming pump.
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Old 09-25-2020, 05:33 PM   #53
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running a diesel out of fuel is always sketchy.. I know from the ford guys that air in the lines on a 7.3 (444E) is no joke.. they talk about it often in the ford forums.. esp if you swap out the injectors which involves draining all the fuel out of the rails..



even on old diesel engines air in the lines was a real issue.. I remember running dads scout out of fuel and having to pump and prime, pump and prime.. loosen the injector nuts, spray fuel everywhere along with air.. total PITA..



it eventually works its way out..



that said.. the ICP is an OIL sensor so unless you ran out of oil you shouldbnt be setting any ICP related codes.. the ICP can however create stumbling..



the way it works is this..



there are 2 oil pumps.. the normal engine oil pump that lubes the bearings and shows up on the dash gauge as oil pressure..



the HPOP or high pressure oil.. this pump fills up a complete second oil system which operates the fuel injectors..



the HPOP pressure is regulated by a valve called the IPR.. (injection poressure regulator) and the computer reads the pressure that the IPR regulates by a sensor called the ICP (injection control pressure).. the code you set means that the computer came up with a desired pressure.. say 2500 psi (it could be any number).. and so the IPR valves starts to turn up for down the pressure to try and match what the computer wants.. the computer reads the actual pressure by way of the ICP.. so if the computer says "I need 2500 " and it is starting out at 1000 it begins to operate the valve so the pressure will go up.. if after some amount of time the pressure either goes up way too high or fails to go up to near what the computer desires it will set the code 333 and turn on the WARN light..



any number of things couldve happened..

the HPOP pump may not be able to make the pressure desired by the computer.. (worn?)


the IPR valve didnt actually operate even though the computer commanded it to...

the ICP sensor is defective and reads back the wrong pressure so the computer doesnt know what the real pressure is..



what does all this mean? well at this point it is where i would be plugging in the laptop and reading the computer with the navistar software so i could watch those items above.. its possible there was a fliuke so nothing is really bad with the oil system.. I mighgt see the HPOP pressure never get above pressure 'X' which isnt high enough.. so then first id make sure my engine oil is on the full mark on the dipstick and is clean. if thats good.. then id remove and replace the ICP (because its cheaper than an IPR valve.. if i got the same result I would remove and clean or replace the IPR valve.. and finally if HPOP pressure was still low, id replace the HPOP itself..



point being having the navistar software is a huge help for something like this
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Old 09-25-2020, 06:30 PM   #54
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point being having the navistar software is a huge help for something like this
I responded to his other thread https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f37/f...ill-33110.html telling him I bought one of the Nexiq clones which I would think it would give more info about his engine and its current problem. It seems the two threads have become one.
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Old 09-25-2020, 07:24 PM   #55
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yes for sure the nexiq clone and the free navistar software can help.. however the fuel pump on his engine is most likely mechanical and theres no fuel pressure sensor.. you can see the HEUI system data though..



I dont have my version of the bluefire software that has HPOP data in it ready to compile correxctly and send out to anyone.. I also dont have the apple version only the windows and android..
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Old 09-26-2020, 12:33 AM   #56
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I dont have my version of the bluefire software that has HPOP data in it ready to compile correxctly and send out to anyone.. I also dont have the apple version only the windows and android..
My Android system is ready to perform alpha testing.


Are you writing the HPOP code such that is can be integrated into the BlueFire software easily when new releases come along. Of course, it could be used as a stand-alone tool for diagnostics.
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Old 09-26-2020, 02:59 AM   #57
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Right now it’s alpha level and Navistar.. this parameters appear to be navistar proprietary.. I haven’t played with cat ET long enough to see what all HPOP they send across..

Actual HPOP pressure is PID 164 and that is a J1708 standard parameter but desired and IPR % are the ones I wanted
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Old 09-26-2020, 04:17 PM   #58
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Yeah, without knowing what the ECM requested and what the IPR valve is putting out, the HPOP only tells you what the pressure is and not what is going on. It is like knowing your engine speed, but not knowing how hard you have to press the pedal to get it there.
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Old 09-26-2020, 06:31 PM   #59
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I almost had a Cat C7 to mess around with but the bus was too rusty for my liking.. it was the Shorty RE with A/C and an MD3060 I was looking for.. but aint no messin with no rustbucket for this boy!!
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