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Old 04-20-2024, 04:28 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 39
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT466E
99 International 3800 wheel bearing grease ??

Changing a caliper that is leaking and the rotor and I took off my wheel bearing cover and itís a giant blob of chocolate milk. Anyone know what kind of wheel grease I should use to replace it. I was thinking it was a liquid bath but thereís no drain hole on the cap so itís just a solid type of grease. Please help someone I need to get the wheel back together today. Thanks !
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Old 04-20-2024, 05:25 PM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird Mini-Bird 24'
Chassis: Chevy P30
Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
You could grab some heavy-duty wheel grease from a NAPA, or if in doubt go for a heavy marine axle grease to get the job done. When you're back home, I'd look up what the chassis recommends.
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Old 04-21-2024, 11:58 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
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Year: 2001
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Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT466E
Thanks I appreciate the advice ! I went with hi temp grease for now ! She was really damn dirty. Thank you!
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Old 04-22-2024, 12:10 AM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
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Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT466E
I kinda cheated the system on this repair. My caliper rubber went bad, master cyl was leaking on the power break booster connection and my power break booster is leaking as well so Iím replacing everything. The dealer wanted 1900 for the brake booster, 650 for the caliper, 1100 for the master cyl, 150 for the rotor and 150 for pads. I got the part numbers and looked up everything and I discovered a hack. Getting the parts myself made the cost 80% cheaper. However I got the spec sheet for the master and the power break booster matched the bore size in millimeters and did a search and found the parts directly from the manufacturer for 1/20th of the cost of retail. I took the casting part number off the outside of the bendix booster and master then found each part for ~100$. I did the same thing with the rubber brake hoses and found a replacement for 15$ instead of the 150$ each they wanted for just the rubber hose. All in Iím at 50$ for the rotor, 50$ for the pads, 128 for the master cyl, 120(30 for core) for the brake booster without the vacuum pump but new orings for the pump(mines still good) 230 for the caliper with 120 for core. I canít believe how much the stealership robs people just by going by part numbers.
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Old 04-22-2024, 06:26 AM   #5
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,920
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
ha!! sad to say or maybe its not.. well it is why they call it a stealership.. but I often look at the casting numbers on parts and then look uo variations.. certain parts my dealer will sell me an aftermarket version that rivals the cost of finding it online or is only a little more so ill buy from them..



for a bus like yours its newer than 1995 you can sign up for repairlink for free and get the navistar dealewr part number lookup.. its not perfect but is close.. HOWEVER at least in my case Never orderanything from repairlink as it has a good chance of never making it there.. at least from my experience.. but its a great way to get part numbers..



I had the same experience with calipers.. navistar wanted 650 or 700 bucks a piece for them. I found a local brake shop that rebuilds the original parts wit ha great reputation and they were like 150 bucks a pop.
brake hoses my local Napa store can make for a fraction of the cost.. (same with pre measured air hoses for my air brake busses).



the rotors on mine turned out to be a super standard part that truckpro keeps on the shelf.. apparently they were used on a bunch of ford F450-F650 trucks..



it pays to do real research!
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Old 04-22-2024, 05:11 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
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Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
yeah... that's not really a hack or a cheat; it's just what reasonable people do.

I honestly don't know anyone that goes to a dealer unless the dealer has black-balled the part and it's "dealer only" (then you go to a junkyard) or they're locked into a contract to secure their warranty. Even then, half the time I'm seeing the dealership rob them blind and screwing up half the time.
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Old 04-22-2024, 06:36 PM   #7
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Join Date: May 2009
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Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
im not a big fan of junkyard parts for consumables... meaning complex parts with seals, and motion.. ie calipers, pumps, etc.. things that dont do well sitting.. nope on a rotor or drum with a patina..


now a spindle or a yoke or a bracket or a body panel, different story.. junkyard all day long
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Old 04-22-2024, 08:48 PM   #8
Bus Nut
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
im not a big fan of junkyard parts for consumables... meaning complex parts with seals, and motion.. ie calipers, pumps, etc.. things that dont do well sitting.. nope on a rotor or drum with a patina..


now a spindle or a yoke or a bracket or a body panel, different story.. junkyard all day long

oh certainly. I buy new whenever I can.

It's just that I've occasionally stumbled upon certain parts that can't be bought in a store, and the dealers were kind of prickish about them. Usually something like rare mirrors, light lenses, or something with electronics in it... which is hit-or-miss in a junkyard.
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Old 04-24-2024, 10:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albatross View Post
oh certainly. I buy new whenever I can.

It's just that I've occasionally stumbled upon certain parts that can't be bought in a store, and the dealers were kind of prickish about them. Usually something like rare mirrors, light lenses, or something with electronics in it... which is hit-or-miss in a junkyard.
Well it's kind of an insult to the dealerships when you bring a 30 yo bus for work, and it's like 2 decades older than anything else on the lot, and their decades of attempts at getting you to just buy a new one fail. I think this is at least partly why they raise prices so high to make you think twice about repairing the old one.
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Old 04-25-2024, 07:45 AM   #10
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,920
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikitis View Post
Well it's kind of an insult to the dealerships when you bring a 30 yo bus for work, and it's like 2 decades older than anything else on the lot, and their decades of attempts at getting you to just buy a new one fail. I think this is at least partly why they raise prices so high to make you think twice about repairing the old one.

most any car dealer.. and im sure truck dealer too.. will tell you that they make the vast majority of their money on service work.. they only sell vehicles so they have vehicles to work on in the future.. for real..



even warranty work pays pretty decent if you put good efficient mechanics on it.. the manufacturer will pay book hours on it regardless of real time.. mechanics love warranty work because the vehicle is fairly new so the fasteners arent rusted in place..



old stuff is a pain to work on.. rusted up bolts and such that take large number of hours.. at some point its tough to get the customer to pay.. no matter how much you say it really took 4 hours to get the old part off, they will want to dispute it and give a bad review over it, if the labor $$ isnt cut... same with breaking something else to fix one thing.. a customer is going to tell the dealer "You broke my good part you pay".. even though the "good" part may have been hanging by a thread.. it becomes a point of contention..



that said, plenty of old stuff comes in for service or parts are bought.. I walked into my local dealer just last week and on the shelf was a suspension part for my 34 year old bus... even though it was about 15% more expensive than buying it online, I bought it at the dealer because I could lay old beside new and take it home that day vs order one only to find out it could be wrong nad have to pay to ship it back.. it was worth it..
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Old 05-02-2024, 09:02 AM   #11
Skoolie
 
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Year: 2001
Chassis: Chevy Kodiak
Engine: 3126B CAT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
im not a big fan of junkyard parts for consumables... meaning complex parts with seals, and motion.. ie calipers, pumps, etc.. things that dont do well sitting.. nope on a rotor or drum with a patina..


now a spindle or a yoke or a bracket or a body panel, different story.. junkyard all day long
Scrap yard is a great place to snag a core for return for refund. About it. Maybe a spare part for the side box,......ECM that you can plug-in and give a quick, easy, blessing as a "get-home" device.
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Old 05-02-2024, 09:07 AM   #12
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djthe3rd View Post
I kinda cheated the system on this repair. My caliper rubber went bad, master cyl was leaking on the power break booster connection and my power break booster is leaking as well so Iím replacing everything. The dealer wanted 1900 for the brake booster, 650 for the caliper, 1100 for the master cyl, 150 for the rotor and 150 for pads. I got the part numbers and looked up everything and I discovered a hack. Getting the parts myself made the cost 80% cheaper. However I got the spec sheet for the master and the power break booster matched the bore size in millimeters and did a search and found the parts directly from the manufacturer for 1/20th of the cost of retail. I took the casting part number off the outside of the bendix booster and master then found each part for ~100$. I did the same thing with the rubber brake hoses and found a replacement for 15$ instead of the 150$ each they wanted for just the rubber hose. All in Iím at 50$ for the rotor, 50$ for the pads, 128 for the master cyl, 120(30 for core) for the brake booster without the vacuum pump but new orings for the pump(mines still good) 230 for the caliper with 120 for core. I canít believe how much the stealership robs people just by going by part numbers.
Needs to be said. Fresh metal is so beautiful.

I recommend Mobil SHC 220 for wheel bearings. It's expensive, but the best currently available IMAO. I've had machine shops call me a liar when I bring a component in for reman and tell them hours of wear. Good Luck!
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Old 05-11-2024, 11:33 AM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Year: 1972
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Chassis: international
Engine: 345
Those are grease wheel bearings. And you might want to think about doing the other side too. It's probably the same age as the side that went bad and it's a good idea to replace the other side too so it matches.
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