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10-22-2021, 12:44 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,709
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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It's a ring issue typically. Excessive idling will wipe them out in a hurry. High idle is better, but still isn't "good". Moral of the story is don't start or run it if you're no intending on driving it.
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10-22-2021, 12:49 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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high idle was always a given.. I knew of ring issues on cool engines at low idle.. i always ran them at 1200-1400 till the Tstat opened then shut down.. on a diesel bus this was 30 minutes or more since the heater loops have to warm up too...
I do agree driving is best, for one it frees up the transmission, brakes, suspsension, gets the grease moving in U-joints, etc..
I just never thought of warm-up idling hurting the motor is all.. seemed better than letting an engine sit for a year untouched
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10-22-2021, 07:37 PM
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#23
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: arkensas
Posts: 1,080
Year: 1997
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: chevy
Engine: 3116 catapillar
Rated Cap: 71 now 2 humans 1 cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
high idle was always a given.. I knew of ring issues on cool engines at low idle.. i always ran them at 1200-1400 till the Tstat opened then shut down.. on a diesel bus this was 30 minutes or more since the heater loops have to warm up too...
I do agree driving is best, for one it frees up the transmission, brakes, suspsension, gets the grease moving in U-joints, etc..
I just never thought of warm-up idling hurting the motor is all.. seemed better than letting an engine sit for a year untouched
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yea thats right and i never had any issue getting the water and oil warmed up. even at 5 below as i keep a good thermostat in it. i do have a winterfront too but you do need to circulate the oil so they dont seize. i rebuilt a diesel years ago it ran good when he parked it and it sat for about 16 months. when he started it it spun a bearing and squealed loudly. luckily he shut it down but i had to replace the rod bearing and a main that spun too. turned the crank and told him to run it for at least a half hour every month. he never had any issues again.
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10-22-2021, 07:56 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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The winter front.. my dev bus has an automatic winter front and it really helps even on the road..
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10-22-2021, 08:29 PM
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#25
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 23
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Oh wow guys! So many answers.
Thank you to all of you!
I am living in winter climate where temp drops as low as -30C(-22F) or more and I have built an understanding that its not good for an engine to sit over a year in that condition. And I also do it at least couple times a month, each at least 30 min. First couple minutes with high idle.
But thank you very much for you recommendations. I have lot to learn. I unfortunately cannot drive the bus, because it is currently my living space which is still under construction to become a proper RV.
Complicated story.
I know it sucks.
I am looking ways to maintain and fix the air issue and thank you for your help. I will take more pictures and post here if that will help.
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10-23-2021, 09:36 AM
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#26
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: arkensas
Posts: 1,080
Year: 1997
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: chevy
Engine: 3116 catapillar
Rated Cap: 71 now 2 humans 1 cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
The winter front.. my dev bus has an automatic winter front and it really helps even on the road..
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i always liked those had a mad max look
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10-23-2021, 10:00 AM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoore6856
i always liked those had a mad max look
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mine is behind the grill you cant see it.. it is a shutter that open and closes with temperature when its enabled.. I have a switch on the dash so I can disable it, otherwise it is auto.. even in minus-degree weather the bus warms up nicely with it enabled..
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10-24-2021, 08:47 PM
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#28
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 23
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Hey guys!
I made same pictures and a video (uploaded with a link) to show more detailed what, where and who.
Heres a link to a video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7brt6mm8f4...ts-ts.mp4?dl=0
So you can hear the sound of air coming out in pulses.
So as I understand the air needs to be emptied from the bigger tank, that has a little knob under its belly?
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10-25-2021, 09:56 AM
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#29
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,709
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Pulsing is because the compressor is a piston pump, not a gear pump, so it pumps in pulses.
The reason it's coming from the dryer and not building pressure is caused by your purge valve being stuck open. Refer to my post here for your options on fixing.
This video shows how to rebuild an ad9 dryer off the vehicle.
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10-25-2021, 10:22 AM
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#30
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 647
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
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Both tanks have a drain valve.
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10-26-2021, 09:44 PM
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#31
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 23
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Thank you very much guys!
Thank you, Booyah!!! You have been very helpful. I will do what is necessary.
And will let you know how it went.
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10-27-2021, 03:24 PM
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#32
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New Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Kansas
Posts: 8
Year: 2005
Chassis: Thomas HDX
Engine: Cat 7.2
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That literally just happened to me last week… Replace the air brake governor and then reset the purge valve by pushing up on the bottom of it with a small block of wood while the engine is running you’ll start building pressure instantly and all should be well… At least it was in my case. Best of luck!
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10-27-2021, 10:44 PM
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#33
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 271
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Do Not
Drive it. When air brakes loose air the huge spring in the pots presses the brakes and turns them ON. Contact a truck repair shop
And have them fix it! You risk killing yourself and others. Don’t mess around with bad air brakes.
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10-28-2021, 08:47 AM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,709
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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He's got juice brakes. The air system is for the suspension and other misc. accessories.
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10-28-2021, 02:48 PM
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#35
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
He's got juice brakes. The air system is for the suspension and other misc. accessories.
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Do any of the buses have air assist hydraulic brakes?
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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10-28-2021, 06:00 PM
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#36
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Do any of the buses have air assist hydraulic brakes?
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air over hydraulic.. ive not seen it in a bus but have run across it in a box truck.
doesnt mean it may not exist though..
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10-29-2021, 07:29 AM
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#37
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,709
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
air over hydraulic.. ive not seen it in a bus but have run across it in a box truck.
doesnt mean it may not exist though..
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a lot of military stuff ran that. Old tech from the 50's or so.
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11-07-2021, 09:56 AM
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#38
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 23
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To replace the purge valve. Is there any precautions I should take, before I remove the old one?
Empty the tanks or...?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian-Ks
That literally just happened to me last week… Replace the air brake governor and then reset the purge valve by pushing up on the bottom of it with a small block of wood while the engine is running you’ll start building pressure instantly and all should be well… At least it was in my case. Best of luck!
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Was the Air Governor easy to replace for you?
Is there any precautions before I dismantle it?
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11-07-2021, 11:33 AM
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#39
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New Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Kansas
Posts: 8
Year: 2005
Chassis: Thomas HDX
Engine: Cat 7.2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapa
To replace the purge valve. Is there any precautions I should take, before I remove the old one?
Empty the tanks or...?
Was the Air Governor easy to replace for you?
Is there any precautions before I dismantle it?
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It was super simple to replace, it took 20-30 minutes. I dumped the air then I cleaned the old Governor and the area around it so I didn’t contaminate the airlines when I removed them. Keep good track of where the airlines bolt to the Governor, mark them if necessary so you don’t get them mixed up. I had to reuse the fittings between the line and the Governor since the new Governor didn’t come with them. Be sure to use Teflon tape on the pipe thread side only on the fittings and on the pipe plugs where no fittings are used. Hope this helps.
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11-08-2021, 08:55 AM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,709
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Any time you work on any air component on the bus, dumping the air tanks is step 2, with step 1 being chock the wheels.
Once the tanks are drained, you're good to go.
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