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Old 11-21-2022, 11:13 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 16
Exclamation Brake sensor??

Hello all,

I’m continuously thankful for the resource of the experienced people on this forum that are willing to share their knowledge of school buses and heavy trucks.

I was recently replacing the air ride airbags and came across what looks like a broken part associated with the brakes, or brake sensor?

Please see photos.

Does anyone know what this part is? It’s function? And how to repair it?
Attached Thumbnails
F4B54439-C30A-4B15-BD99-A04C03964D9E.jpg   780F27A6-63E1-42AD-9D42-BEBE94BA5B87.jpg  

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Old 11-22-2022, 03:13 AM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lebanon, Indiana
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Chassis: Ford F53
Engine: Ford Triton V-10
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Looks like a wheel speed sensor. It counts the actual revolutions of the wheel relative to the anticipated revolutions to determine if a wheel is free spinning or locked up. It's fundamental to antilock brakes and traction/stability control systems in modern vehicles. It may not be something you can get at your neighborhood auto parts store but if you take your year/make/model to a large truck parts shop they should be able to get it if it's not something exotic. Follow the cable back and at some point there should be a connector to allow for easy disconnect and replacement of the wheel end of this component.

Hope this helps. I've replaced many of these on my Jeeps.
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Old 11-22-2022, 07:17 AM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Thank you for the reply Sehnsucht, this is very helpful. I’ll contact a parts dealer now that I know what I’m looking for ����
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Old 11-22-2022, 07:47 AM   #4
Bus Crazy
 
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I agree with Sehnsucht...not that he needs my agreement. I just wanted to add that the sensor picks up the passage of "teeth" on a ring, called a "tone ring"...so if you get any ABS error codes that indicate "tone ring", that's what it's referring to and in your case it's obvious that the sensor's messed up.

I found that out on our Freightliner, when I had to learn what a tone ring error was. I discovered that one of our sensors had come dislodged. In our case, the sensor didn't need to be replaced...just put back in place.
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Old 11-22-2022, 11:53 AM   #5
Bus Nut
 
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Originally Posted by rossvtaylor View Post
I agree with Sehnsucht...not that he needs my agreement.
But it's appreciated nonetheless!
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Old 11-22-2022, 04:38 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Thanks Ross. It looks like the plastic end of this sensor is melted. So that could be an indication that there was some kind of internal failure. I will try for replacing the sensor first and see if that works to repair it, otherwise I may need to open the whole wheel up and have a look inside.
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Old 11-23-2022, 03:18 PM   #7
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lots of grease or fluid on that.. might be worth making sure the Hub seal or brake caliper isnt leaking also
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Old 11-24-2022, 12:59 PM   #8
Almost There
 
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Hi captain Cyrus, looks like an AbS sensor. Pretty cheap and easy to replace. However, I also had one melted like yours because the caliper was dead (hydraulic brakes though) so the pads were dragging, over heating the whole assembly. Didn’t you actually get an AbS light up on the dash ?
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Old 11-24-2022, 08:12 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Hi Seb,

To answer your question, yes. I was stuck in another country for the duration of the pandemic and at some point during that time the emergency brake got engaged in my absence on the parked bus, and had been that way for some time. When I came back and drove the bus for the first time I noticed that it was sluggish and also after a few miles I could tell by some brake smell that it seemed the brakes hadn’t fully released from the e brake being engaged for so long. I was close to my destination so drove slow and continuously evaluated, and it felt like the brakes slowly and eventually let go more completely, and the driving felt normal by the time I arrived. It was during this time that the ABS light came on. So presumably the brakes overheated and melted what I now know as the sensor during this episode, similar to what happened to you.
I’m ordering a new sensor from Freightliner now.
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Old 11-25-2022, 08:11 AM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
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A question for everyone here, again thank you for any input, it is much appreciated and valued.

Given what I have learned so far, I think it would be prudent to take the tire off and give a proper inspection to the breaks, drums and pads. For removing the lugs I have seen the necessity for a torque multiplier. However, I’m not much for tools designed for single purposes and I have the convenient use of my compressed air. So question is, would a 500 ft-lbs torque air hammer suffice for this and future tire lug nut jobs? If so, I think that would be a more valuable purchase.
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Old 11-25-2022, 08:53 AM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Cyrus View Post
<snip>... the necessity for a torque multiplier. However, I’m not much for tools designed for single purposes and I have the convenient use of my compressed air. So question is, would a 500 ft-lbs torque air hammer suffice for this and future tire lug nut jobs? If so, I think that would be a more valuable purchase.
Normally, 500 ft-lbs is sufficient because torque specs in the region of 400 ft-lbs (plus or minus 50, depending upon the studs and manufacturer) seem to be common. But I've seen tire shops torque to double that, sometimes breaking studs...and if your lug nuts aren't properly torqued that 500 ft-lb impact gun may not be enough.

I have a couple of the cheap torque multipliers and they work well. They're reliable, don't take power (air or battery), and they're cheap enough to carry one in each vehicle. Heck, considering they come with the sockets the wrench part is almost free.

I also have a Milwaukee 3/4-inch battery impact gun which I use at home and it's a beast. I've not yet found a lug nut it won't remove.
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Old 11-25-2022, 03:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor View Post
Normally, 500 ft-lbs is sufficient because torque specs in the region of 400 ft-lbs (plus or minus 50, depending upon the studs and manufacturer) seem to be common. But I've seen tire shops torque to double that, sometimes breaking studs...and if your lug nuts aren't properly torqued that 500 ft-lb impact gun may not be enough.

I have a couple of the cheap torque multipliers and they work well. They're reliable, don't take power (air or battery), and they're cheap enough to carry one in each vehicle. Heck, considering they come with the sockets the wrench part is almost free.

I also have a Milwaukee 3/4-inch battery impact gun which I use at home and it's a beast. I've not yet found a lug nut it won't remove.

even my 1/2 inch 20 volt dewalt gets the job done..and ive tested with a BIG torque wrench and if you bang on em too long.. the dewalt can get them up over 600... the 3/4 milwaukee prob spins em right off!
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