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11-21-2022, 11:13 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 16
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Brake sensor??
Hello all,
I’m continuously thankful for the resource of the experienced people on this forum that are willing to share their knowledge of school buses and heavy trucks.
I was recently replacing the air ride airbags and came across what looks like a broken part associated with the brakes, or brake sensor?
Please see photos.
Does anyone know what this part is? It’s function? And how to repair it?
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11-22-2022, 03:13 AM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lebanon, Indiana
Posts: 911
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Winnebago
Chassis: Ford F53
Engine: Ford Triton V-10
Rated Cap: currently 2
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Looks like a wheel speed sensor. It counts the actual revolutions of the wheel relative to the anticipated revolutions to determine if a wheel is free spinning or locked up. It's fundamental to antilock brakes and traction/stability control systems in modern vehicles. It may not be something you can get at your neighborhood auto parts store but if you take your year/make/model to a large truck parts shop they should be able to get it if it's not something exotic. Follow the cable back and at some point there should be a connector to allow for easy disconnect and replacement of the wheel end of this component.
Hope this helps. I've replaced many of these on my Jeeps.
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11-22-2022, 07:17 AM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 16
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Thank you for the reply Sehnsucht, this is very helpful. I’ll contact a parts dealer now that I know what I’m looking for
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11-22-2022, 07:47 AM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Near Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 1,951
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: "Atomic"
Engine: DD 8V71
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I agree with Sehnsucht...not that he needs my agreement. I just wanted to add that the sensor picks up the passage of "teeth" on a ring, called a "tone ring"...so if you get any ABS error codes that indicate "tone ring", that's what it's referring to and in your case it's obvious that the sensor's messed up.
I found that out on our Freightliner, when I had to learn what a tone ring error was. I discovered that one of our sensors had come dislodged. In our case, the sensor didn't need to be replaced...just put back in place.
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11-22-2022, 11:53 AM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lebanon, Indiana
Posts: 911
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Winnebago
Chassis: Ford F53
Engine: Ford Triton V-10
Rated Cap: currently 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor
I agree with Sehnsucht...not that he needs my agreement.
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But it's appreciated nonetheless!
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11-22-2022, 04:38 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 16
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Thanks Ross. It looks like the plastic end of this sensor is melted. So that could be an indication that there was some kind of internal failure. I will try for replacing the sensor first and see if that works to repair it, otherwise I may need to open the whole wheel up and have a look inside.
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11-23-2022, 03:18 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,760
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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lots of grease or fluid on that.. might be worth making sure the Hub seal or brake caliper isnt leaking also
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11-24-2022, 12:59 PM
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#8
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 95
Year: 2008
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: IC CE300
Engine: Maxxforce DT
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Hi captain Cyrus, looks like an AbS sensor. Pretty cheap and easy to replace. However, I also had one melted like yours because the caliper was dead (hydraulic brakes though) so the pads were dragging, over heating the whole assembly. Didn’t you actually get an AbS light up on the dash ?
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11-24-2022, 08:12 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 16
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Hi Seb,
To answer your question, yes. I was stuck in another country for the duration of the pandemic and at some point during that time the emergency brake got engaged in my absence on the parked bus, and had been that way for some time. When I came back and drove the bus for the first time I noticed that it was sluggish and also after a few miles I could tell by some brake smell that it seemed the brakes hadn’t fully released from the e brake being engaged for so long. I was close to my destination so drove slow and continuously evaluated, and it felt like the brakes slowly and eventually let go more completely, and the driving felt normal by the time I arrived. It was during this time that the ABS light came on. So presumably the brakes overheated and melted what I now know as the sensor during this episode, similar to what happened to you.
I’m ordering a new sensor from Freightliner now.
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11-25-2022, 08:11 AM
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#10
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 16
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A question for everyone here, again thank you for any input, it is much appreciated and valued.
Given what I have learned so far, I think it would be prudent to take the tire off and give a proper inspection to the breaks, drums and pads. For removing the lugs I have seen the necessity for a torque multiplier. However, I’m not much for tools designed for single purposes and I have the convenient use of my compressed air. So question is, would a 500 ft-lbs torque air hammer suffice for this and future tire lug nut jobs? If so, I think that would be a more valuable purchase.
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11-25-2022, 08:53 AM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Near Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 1,951
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: "Atomic"
Engine: DD 8V71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Cyrus
<snip>... the necessity for a torque multiplier. However, I’m not much for tools designed for single purposes and I have the convenient use of my compressed air. So question is, would a 500 ft-lbs torque air hammer suffice for this and future tire lug nut jobs? If so, I think that would be a more valuable purchase.
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Normally, 500 ft-lbs is sufficient because torque specs in the region of 400 ft-lbs (plus or minus 50, depending upon the studs and manufacturer) seem to be common. But I've seen tire shops torque to double that, sometimes breaking studs...and if your lug nuts aren't properly torqued that 500 ft-lb impact gun may not be enough.
I have a couple of the cheap torque multipliers and they work well. They're reliable, don't take power (air or battery), and they're cheap enough to carry one in each vehicle. Heck, considering they come with the sockets the wrench part is almost free.
I also have a Milwaukee 3/4-inch battery impact gun which I use at home and it's a beast. I've not yet found a lug nut it won't remove.
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11-25-2022, 03:17 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,760
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor
Normally, 500 ft-lbs is sufficient because torque specs in the region of 400 ft-lbs (plus or minus 50, depending upon the studs and manufacturer) seem to be common. But I've seen tire shops torque to double that, sometimes breaking studs...and if your lug nuts aren't properly torqued that 500 ft-lb impact gun may not be enough.
I have a couple of the cheap torque multipliers and they work well. They're reliable, don't take power (air or battery), and they're cheap enough to carry one in each vehicle. Heck, considering they come with the sockets the wrench part is almost free.
I also have a Milwaukee 3/4-inch battery impact gun which I use at home and it's a beast. I've not yet found a lug nut it won't remove.
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even my 1/2 inch 20 volt dewalt gets the job done..and ive tested with a BIG torque wrench and if you bang on em too long.. the dewalt can get them up over 600... the 3/4 milwaukee prob spins em right off!
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