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06-10-2015, 10:21 AM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 17
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: cummins 250
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1974 crown conversion
I'm excited to see what input/help I can receive here. My name is Chris and I'm converting a supercoach.
I've gutted her, cut her in half, welded it a foot taller, and started putting the body back together. Here are a few pictures. I regrettably tore out the windshield surrounding and I'm figuring out how to do body work at that level now. It was just too rusted around the windshield. I have cut across the windshield, I'm getting the glass cut a foot taller and going that route.
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06-10-2015, 11:39 AM
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#2
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 1
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Going to start a crown bus conversion project of our own soon. Best of luck to you, can't wait to see it all come along!
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06-10-2015, 01:19 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 592
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
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Chriscrown, didn't I see that bus just off the freeway close to Arlington road? I remember 2 buses one had an RV style door. Welcome from Cuyahoga Falls.
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06-10-2015, 01:23 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 17
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: cummins 250
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I actually just moved to Cuyahoga Falls myself. The bus was on Arlington road a few months ago too.
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06-10-2015, 02:26 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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One thing I did different when I raised my Crown was stagger the cuts on the ribs, that way I didn't create a shear line
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06-10-2015, 02:32 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 17
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: cummins 250
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That's how I was originally going to raise mine, but a rusty windshield surround changed that.
Cutting the ribs like that was smart. Too late now... I guess that's why I'm here. Thanks though.
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06-10-2015, 02:32 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 592
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris'crown
I actually just moved to Cuyahoga Falls myself. The bus was on Arlington road a few months ago too.
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Nice, I have a white shuttle bus I use for camping and pulling trailer with ATV/SxS. If you see it give me a wave. The bus is usually stored in Goodyear heights but I like to stretch its legs and drive it around now and then.
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06-10-2015, 09:20 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Great job man.
I'm glad you went the bigger windshield method. Your going to love it cruising through the mountains.
Keeping the entire roof in one piece is far stronger than cutting it in it's weakest point above the steering axle.
After all, the roof is the strongest part of the bus. Far stronger than the floor.
I would not worry about the staggered cuts. As long as you did your raise properly, it will never be a issue.
Any detailed pics on how you extended the vertical support ribs?
Looking forward to more pics.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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06-22-2015, 07:41 AM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 17
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: cummins 250
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Well, I'm debating raising the roof to 18" higher instead of the 12" I just raised it. I'd be able to look out the windows and use the rear door with ease. I took a few photos of the welds and things. I tried to make the window frame myself this weekend, fail. I'll have to have an auto body shop complete that work. I'm tearing out the back seat, it's pretty rusted. I haven't figured out a layout yet, but the bed or bathroom will be in the back. Straightening the panels in the rear has been a pain too. I brought the curve in on the rear top to try and keep the slope. I'm not entirely sure I should learned how to weld on my future home. Oh well. Feedback is appreciated, thank you.
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06-23-2015, 06:22 AM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 592
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
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Nice to see progress.
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06-23-2015, 10:33 AM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 17
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: cummins 250
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Got a 5500 watt diesel generator. Probably going to put it in the side storage by the door. I'll definitely pipe the exhaust out to the drivers side though. Sorry some of my pictures are upside down, I'll try and fix that on the pc.
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06-23-2015, 12:58 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Nice genny.
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07-27-2015, 09:38 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 17
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: cummins 250
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I had a local shop bend some 14 gauge steel for me to weld in as the windshield. I just need to cut out for glass and paint. I am using the almond rustoleum paint for the top(going to try spraying, but if I have to roll the roof I'm not upset). The commercial Sherman Williams shop in Akron said they should be able to get me an adorable paint for the body. In another month or two I should have it whole again, and painted. We'll see, I'm show moving now that... lady. Such is life.
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06-04-2016, 04:26 AM
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#14
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 17
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: cummins 250
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Hi again. This is a bit of a jump in time here, but better than nothing. I finished the roof raising (remaking the windshield was by far the worst part). I still need to make a better door, and paint the back hatch, however, it's PAINTED! I decided on using some "summit racing" urethane paint. It was 120$ a gallon, but worth the better color options. The bus took 12 gallons of paint including primer, blue, beige, and clear coat. A bit more than expected, but that's how this is turning out. Since the bus is painted I can move it closer to home and should be working on it much more. After painting, I put the windows and lights in. All new led lights, still trying to get the right relay for the blinkers. I'm pleased with how it's turning out. My next challenge is going to be placement of gray and black tanks. I want big tanks, but there isn't a lot of space underneath. The trunk seems problematic to pipe out.. I'll figure it out. Here are some pictures of the progression. I'm also trying to find a headlight mount, one of mine was broken. Looks like I can try a motorcycle mount.
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06-04-2016, 05:13 AM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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WOW!
its so RAD!
One thing though-
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06-04-2016, 06:05 AM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,430
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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That's one of the best raises I've seen.
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06-04-2016, 09:33 AM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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I would agree that has to be one of the best roof raises I have ever seen.
The way in which you increased the size of the windshields looks like it came from the factory that way.
The color combination looks GREAT!
One of the problems of converting a mid-mount engine bus is the lack of space under the floor for things like tanks. If you were to mount your tanks on the curb side in front of the rear wheels you would need to run your drain line across the bus under the driveline. If you built it with the drain line near he transmission you should have plenty of room to clear the driveline. The driveline does not move that much. And if you built it with rubber couplers on both sides of the driveline you would be able to drop the drain line anytime you have to drop the driveline.
Good luck and happy trails to you!
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06-04-2016, 05:31 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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great lookin bus!! love how you did the whole thing including the windshields!! it looks like a factory tall bus!!
-Christopher
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06-04-2016, 09:27 PM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 548
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Nice build! That bus looks awesome, can't wait to see the finished product.
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06-05-2016, 09:23 AM
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#20
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 1,013
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71 Mid-Ship Mounted
Rated Cap: 79 at Birth
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Beautiful Job!!!
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