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Old 01-12-2018, 04:19 PM   #41
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Allenstown NH
Posts: 205
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC-1000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
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On the bright side, I know a few people that have survived the crack with a lock-n-stitch with no problems (so far)

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Old 01-12-2018, 04:25 PM   #42
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Yes 53, got it with 193xxx on it. researched the crap out of it and it seems if it hasn't by now......
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:28 PM   #43
Skoolie
 
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Location: Allenstown NH
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Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC-1000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
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Yeah my research seems to indicate that if you pass 100k crack-free, your chances of getting a crack greatly reduce. So I only need to sweat for 45k miles. Luckily I'll do that in 4.5 months...

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Old 01-12-2018, 04:31 PM   #44
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Year: 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennysTire View Post
On the bright side, I know a few people that have survived the crack with a lock-n-stitch with no problems (so far)

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Moroso Ceramic Engine Sealer FTW. I swear by this stuff after cracking a cylinder wall in an ARCA race car Pontiac motor during practice. We put in 2 bottles of ceramic engine sealer in while everyone standing around laughed at us. We finished 5th in a 250 mile race.
I also had a crack in the side of my Chevy 350 block in my van. It froze and pushed a half-moon crack out enough where when you ran you hand up the side of the block you could feel the crack. It flowed water as fast as they put it in. I called them and told them to wait till I got there with a fix. Of course the only fix they knew of (dealership) was to replace the block. I went in the service department and again watched the mechanics laugh at me telling me there was no way that was going to work. I poured the stuff in and then cranked the motor up and watched it pouring water, slowed pouring water, started to trickle and then stopped completely within a couple of minutes. The looks on their faces was priceless.
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:32 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennysTire View Post
Yeah my research seems to indicate that if you pass 100k crack-free, your chances of getting a crack greatly reduce. So I only need to sweat for 45k miles. Luckily I'll do that in 4.5 months...

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Your putting 10,000 miles a month on your bus?
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:36 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Moroso Ceramic Engine Sealer FTW. I swear by this stuff
Never heard of it, but noted.

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Old 01-12-2018, 05:29 PM   #47
Skoolie
 
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Your putting 10,000 miles a month on your bus?
Yeah, on average. I am sometimes working 20 hour days. Tires are like death and taxes...

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Old 01-17-2018, 11:50 PM   #48
Skoolie
 
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Chassis: TC-1000
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Well, after a few tanks of fuel it looks like I'm averaging 8mpg.
Also, after a few times parking in the garage it looks like I have an oil leak [emoji19].
Also, need to find where I'm losing air brake pressure. Only happens when I'm pressing on the pedal "lightly" (like when doing a 3 point turn...)

And, this thing sucks in snow.

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Old 01-18-2018, 06:48 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennysTire View Post
On the bright side, I know a few people that have survived the crack with a lock-n-stitch with no problems (so far)

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The forum would tell you just to JB Weld it.


Man I wish you were near FL. I need a good tire guy. The local tire yard are pretty sketchy.
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:23 AM   #50
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JB Weld advice isn't so bad. Motorcycle forums would tell you to pour sea foam in your gas tank to fix it.
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:08 AM   #51
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My oil leaks:
Re-torqued pan.
Return line from turbo!
Had a small fuel leaks that looked like oil because the fuel washed the oil off and the drops looked like oil. Fixed all o-ring fuel leaks.
Had a wet AC compressor, the engine vent line was the culprit so I extended it.
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Old 01-21-2018, 11:54 PM   #52
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2kool4skool View Post
My oil leaks:
Re-torqued pan.
Return line from turbo!
Had a small fuel leaks that looked like oil because the fuel washed the oil off and the drops looked like oil. Fixed all o-ring fuel leaks.
Had a wet AC compressor, the engine vent line was the culprit so I extended it.
Found my "oil" leak. It's actually transmission fluid. Return line from cooler.
Air leaks, 2 of them. One of the rear valves. Going to try lubing it up and breathe a little life into it before I resort to replacement. That'll start a never ending process of replacing every rusty item underneath I don't like the looks of.
Man, there's air tanks hidden all over this bus! Not a drip of moisture out of any drain though [emoji106]

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Old 01-22-2018, 06:49 AM   #53
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lol dang on the JB-weld.. WTF? just because i fixed a transmission with the stuff years ago now im the laughing stock of the forum??

ugh..

anyway, yeah sometimes they added extyra air tanks for accessory devices.. stop arms, stop signs, air doors, air seat, and the like sometimes got an extra tank or two on the bus..

those protection valves Love to leak.. seems the disaphram in them cracks or such.. ive found the best way is to replace them... they are easy and rather inexpensive..

sounds like your air dryer is doing its job well!!
-Christopher
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:58 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
lol dang on the JB-weld.. WTF? just because i fixed a transmission with the stuff years ago now im the laughing stock of the forum??

ugh..

anyway, yeah sometimes they added extyra air tanks for accessory devices.. stop arms, stop signs, air doors, air seat, and the like sometimes got an extra tank or two on the bus..

those protection valves Love to leak.. seems the disaphram in them cracks or such.. ive found the best way is to replace them... they are easy and rather inexpensive..

sounds like your air dryer is doing its job well!!
-Christopher
My JB weld comment wasn't directed at anyone in particular. It has its place, but not on the cooling system of my bus.
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Old 01-22-2018, 09:44 AM   #55
Skoolie
 
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Location: Allenstown NH
Posts: 205
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC-1000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 39 Students
Anyone know (or have an educated guess) as to what the list price was for this 2000 TC-1000?
My DMV can't pull it up...

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Old 01-23-2018, 12:00 AM   #56
Skoolie
 
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Rated Cap: 39 Students
I'm still curious, but I was able to give them a list of 60k and they took it.
SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS to register this thing?!
I haven't paid that much for any brand new vehicle I've owned! This thing is old enough to smoke cigarettes...

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Old 01-23-2018, 07:45 AM   #57
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Dont worry, smoking it will.
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Old 01-26-2018, 10:15 AM   #58
Skoolie
 
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Year: 2000
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Love the hydraulic shutters on this bus. Really keeks it warm at idle...
https://youtu.be/qt1OXevbVJY

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Old 01-26-2018, 10:52 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennysTire View Post
Love the hydraulic shutters on this bus. Really keeks it warm at idle...
https://youtu.be/qt1OXevbVJY

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Cardboard not good enough for you?


Those things are nifty- esp up North.

Shutterstat is usually air-operated. I had one have o-rings go bad on a Cummins 8.3L and it was injecting air into the coolant line. Thought I had a blown head gasket. I rebuilt the stat for $2 in o-rings and it is humming along still.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:40 PM   #60
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Allenstown NH
Posts: 205
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC-1000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 39 Students
Well. I promised myself I'd document the build of this bus because I didn't for any other. So, I'm not even 1% done... But changes have been made nevertheless.
Moved seats (only 2 came with the bus) from the right side to the left, facing each other camper-style...

Yep.

That's it.[emoji52]

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