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03-15-2017, 10:23 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Minneapolis Mn
Posts: 9
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 77
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93 Thomas unconventional roof raise?
Hey there. As I was ripping these seats out last night, I was brainstorming something to do with all the tubular steel from the seat frames. I also want to raise my roof, but leave my windows alone for the most part. My idea is to turn the seat frames on edge to create an 18" or so lift, then a 3' slope, then but up to a big rectangle welded out of something. I figure 10 seat frames per side, so I can build a 30' roof structure on the ground, hoist it up onto the existing roof, fasten it, skin it, then cut it out inside the bus to reveal my new roof. How ridiculous is this idea if anyone care to chime in??
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03-15-2017, 11:05 AM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 932
Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
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Cool ! Can you sketch your idea and post a picture to help us see what your visi9n is?
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03-15-2017, 11:31 AM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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The picture I'm getting from what you said is you want to use the seat frames to basically build a gable roof over the bus, then remove the original bus roof and ceiling?
I too would need to wait for clarification to understand you better.
The seat frames are a lot of steel in total and it would be good to use them for something. It sounds like you're making good progress so far.
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Robin
Nobody's Business
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03-15-2017, 12:42 PM
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#4
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Minneapolis Mn
Posts: 9
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 77
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Yes a gabled roof
Here is a highly detailed technical blueprint
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03-15-2017, 03:21 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,700
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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You'll have to do something unconventional, a THomas has a slight angle in at the bottom of the windows.
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03-15-2017, 03:27 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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If you're planning on cutting the ribs when removing the original roof you'd loose a lot of strength in the structure of your vehicle. It all depends on what you want to use it for. I've seen buses made into greenhouses.
My thoughts about replacing the roof are why reinvent the wheel, especially if your current roof doesn't leak. I don't mean to discourage you, because anything is possible, but it's highly likely a replacement roof would leak considerably. That issue is dealt with in the most prescribed method for roof raises on this site.
If you can do something new and it works we all learn from it.
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Robin
Nobody's Business
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03-18-2017, 02:37 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 502
Year: 92
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 5.9L
Rated Cap: 77
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I made a back seat rest and rack for my snowmobile out of some of the metal from my seats too. Lol. Use em' if you got em'.
Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
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03-18-2017, 05:12 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 216
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
You'll have to do something unconventional, a THomas has a slight angle in at the bottom of the windows.
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Are you saing the ribs bend inward? I never noticed. Now I want to find out.
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03-18-2017, 05:15 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dowdy Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 1,444
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: 3208 CAT/MT643 tranny
Rated Cap: 87
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At the bottom of the Thomas window line there is a *6 incline on each side of the bus going to the roof. IF you do a roof raise, do it at or BELOW the bottom window line.
__________________
Firearms stand next in importance to the Constitution itself. They are the American people’s liberty teeth and keystone under independence. — George Washington
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03-18-2017, 05:50 PM
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#10
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Minneapolis Mn
Posts: 9
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 77
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It's my remodeling background and my "need"?to repurpose that is beckoning this idea. I got all the seat frames "harvested " last night. I don't have my own welding setup yet, so I might send this one out, however I really want welding stuff so I may pick some stuff up. Burlking is gracing me with his removed windows so I will have upper windows in the bump up. I'm not so worried about water leaking, yet, and I intend to layer new sheeting up the addition with a 4"-6" overlap, like shingling a roof, and seam seal as I go. There's a great sheet metal place in my neighborhood that will sell me a 4'x10' 20ga sheet of galvanized for around $50, and they can do all the brake work I need on it.
Any suggestions where to find good riveting tools/materials?
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03-18-2017, 06:33 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Some people have been using harbor freight riveters.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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03-18-2017, 09:18 PM
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#12
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Minneapolis Mn
Posts: 9
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 77
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Do I want 1/4" x 1/2" rivets for outer skin?
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03-18-2017, 09:52 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I didn't know they made 1/2" rivets. If it's a choice between the two I'd say 1/4", but then I've not done any riveting yet. There are several people that have recently done riveting with actual experience in their threads but I don't remember who it was.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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03-18-2017, 10:39 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 502
Year: 92
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 5.9L
Rated Cap: 77
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I used 3/16 rivets with a pneumatic air riveter. get yours from wherever you can find it, those all do the same function so don't get fancy.
IF I were to do it again...id skip pop rivet type and go with solid steel bucked rivets. I have only seen this done though, never did it myself. its not bad for the sides but if you use them but if they are on top where rain might drop, you will need to do a ton of caulking.
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03-18-2017, 11:11 PM
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#15
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Minneapolis Mn
Posts: 9
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 77
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So would that be a 2 man rivet job with the bucking bar operator inside the bus?
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03-18-2017, 11:19 PM
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#16
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Minneapolis Mn
Posts: 9
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koreed
So would that be a 2 man rivet job with the bucking bar operator inside the bus?
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Never mind. I found the answer to be yes. It is a 2 man job.
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03-19-2017, 06:12 AM
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#17
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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I used self tapping screws and there holding great. you pop rivet guys are nutts
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03-19-2017, 07:38 AM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,700
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I have 1/4" and 3/16" rivets on mine.
You'll need at least some blind rivets as there are places on a bus you can't get a bucking bar behind.
Closed-end blind rivets are what you'll want for exterior pop rivets.
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03-19-2017, 08:02 AM
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#19
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 2,470
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford 1998 e350 4x4 7.3 2 mercedes 2004
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
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I like the idea and looks of diner train cars, could you use mini bus roofs, I believe they are less wide , cut those and save some construction time?
Later J
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03-19-2017, 09:02 AM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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The technical term is...a "Trolley Top". Very popular solution in very early camp cars/RV's as well as actual trolleys.
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