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Old 02-19-2016, 02:46 PM   #21
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Year: 1998
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If anything you'll only be leaking a little bit of coolant. Pinch off the two lines before you disconnect, and pull it apart. Use a 1" hose barb to loop stuff together. Remember this coolant loop feeds the windshield defroster heater core up front too.

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I really don't want to drain the coolant but it appears to be the only way to get this little heater off to access the floor as it is attached under the bus. I'm really thinking about just cutting around it and cutting plywood to fit around it. My gut tells me I should probably just drain the coolant and do it but it's so small and the cockpit area isn't as important to me. Anyone else run into this personal dilema?
On a better note I did get the ceiling down yesterday night. Used air chisel to punch out the middles of the rivets then a normal her and cold chisel to smack the heads off

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Old 02-19-2016, 02:47 PM   #22
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That vent is probably the engine air intake. Lots of noise comes out of that hole.


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Also the back walls seem somewhat integrated to window functionality. How much or little of this should I remove? The area where there's a vent up top... does that vent motor heat and is in necessary? I noticed there was no insulation in that wall.

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Old 02-19-2016, 07:05 PM   #23
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So if that is air intake for the engine I should insulate around it?
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:38 AM   #24
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Do people typically leave all the back paneling and just cover it? If so how do you attach your insulation and wall to that?
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:51 AM   #25
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i took both mid way heaters out and ran new coolant lines from pump/motor to the front of the bus to feed heater/ defroster. i ran them under the bus to get them out of the way. got 60' of heater hose off ebay for 55 bucks
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Old 02-26-2016, 08:18 AM   #26
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Very nice! I don't think I'm too concerned about the hoses being inside the bus but idk? I have already removed both mid heaters. This is a little one that goes between the drivers seat and wall. The hoses going into it are under the bus. I don't think I can pinch them off like I did with the thicker black hoses. I'll probably have to drain the coolant if I want to detach that little heater
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:53 PM   #27
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Tsp scrubbed and sprayed ospho. Worked out of a fertilizer sprayer. May even try that sprayer to lay primer. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:40 AM   #28
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First coat of rustoleum primer. Have enough for a second coat. I may use the primer on the back and front area that I didn't spray. I used a $13 air compressor spray gun to lay the primer but the other areas I will probably just brush on. I think I'm just going to go ahead and primer all the areas that are currently painted that I was planning to leave alone for now (cockpit area around window and switchboard)
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:30 AM   #29
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1999
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You're using the system I recommend! Good stuff! That red oxide color is addicting once you start putting it down, eh?

Looks good, keep up the good work. Your bus looks solid and clean!
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:54 PM   #30
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Thanks! Threw on a quick 2nd coat this morning. Going to do silicon and aluminum tape on the holes once it's dry and then the rustoleum paint. Temps are about to be back down below freezing tho so I may hold off on the paint
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:14 AM   #31
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When making the Floorplan what things do I need to take into consideration? I assume I will me working the floor plan around plumbing? I need to figure out where I can mount a grey water tank under the bus and probably put a composting toilet there with the sink backed up to the bathroom wall so all grey water things are close together?

Is there an order at which these things are most easily done? I've been focusing on one step at a time. If there was a most practical order that may help. Frame, plumb, wood stove, electric?
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:55 AM   #32
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Got the flor painted! Going to put on a second coat after work if I have time. Excited to get the subfloor down



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Old 03-12-2016, 09:44 AM   #33
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When making the Floorplan what things do I need to take into consideration? I assume I will me working the floor plan around plumbing? I need to figure out where I can mount a grey water tank under the bus and probably put a composting toilet there with the sink backed up to the bathroom wall so all grey water things are close together?

Is there an order at which these things are most easily done? I've been focusing on one step at a time. If there was a most practical order that may help. Frame, plumb, wood stove, electric?
One advantage to an RE is you can put your tanks between the frame rails. And what you may want to do after your frame, but before you panel, is run your water and electric, then worry about the wood stove later.
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:09 PM   #34
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Thanks! That helps a lot. I thought there was something going on between the frame rails but I'll check it out tonight
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:38 AM   #35
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I was thinking of putting a frame to the floor to help support the weight of everything to not crush the foam insulation. I've decided on 1 inch 25 psi foam board. I was going to put the floor frame butted up against the wall and down the middle and under each seam. I will be using those TEK screws to attach to the metal floor. Is this overkill to support the weight of everything? Do I need that much support if in going with 25 psi board? And for the frame I was just going to cut strips of half inch plywood to have a true 1in to be flush with the foam board. I think I will then attach the plywood to the strips with either screws, liquid nails, or a combination of both. Likely have the 30# felt between either floor and foam or foam and plywood. Anyone have any advice? Should I use less wood to frame? How many screws would one recommend? And better advice for attaching or adhering this stuff?
Thanks for all the help as most of the info I got to devise this plan is right from you guys
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:18 AM   #36
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Got the flor painted! Going to put on a second coat after work if I have time. Excited to get the subfloor down



Thats GREAT!!!!
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:33 PM   #37
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Eric,

It's bread from UP north. Your bus looks great. Hope to see ya at the next fest
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Old 03-30-2021, 11:47 PM   #38
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Location: michigan
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Year: 2003
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Chassis: Allison
Engine: 3800 466e international
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Hehe so I bought the 97 bluebird 8.3 Cummins md3060 from Seattle area and its very rust free. I live in Kalamazoo Michigan and plan on living in the bus full time starting this fall with my lady friend and 9 mo old Australian Shepherd. We want to have a wood burning stove, probably propane for backup heat\electric. Solar paneling on roof preferably removable for traveling and parking. We want to spend a few months traveling the west side of the US backpacking national parks and adventuring about. We also plan on a sink, composting toilet and shower but am unsure about hot water. We will live out of the bus and work temp jobs to save for what we need once we run out of money (less emergency fund).

So that's what the plan is... So far I have enjoyed what we have done. Unbolted the seats I could access under the bus and angle grinder to the rest. Have all the floor up except where the driver seat was. Pulled the 2 rear heaters. I gave all the seats away to someone on CL. Now I'm running into questions and am pretty sure I've read most if not all threads pertaining to flooring. Now I have no experience with anything construction related so the way I'm doing this is by trying to find someone who has done something similar and just copying that project. I'm just not quite grasping how the floor\wall framing\ceiling all go together or is the floor a separate entity? Do I plan. All 3 out at once? If I use self tapping screws to screw anything to the floor doesn't that create a thermal\moisture bridge that seems to be very desirable? It seems I need to keep that bottom part of the wall intact? Does people seal walls with any rustoleum? Can I run the bus with my air ride seat detached? The air line that pumps air to the seat is disconnected and might just start pumping a lot of air? Is anything done to attach floors to walls? I was thinking floating floor to avoid screws. I figure if I do a good job with the rustoleum for sealing off the already pretty rust free floor I could just use adhesive to attach everything together and still have some floor to maybe toenail a little bit down.

I am trying to take this one thing at a time and currently working on getting rivets out of walls and ceiling but the floor is coming up and although I've spent several hours trying to figure out what and how to do it all I still feel a little unsure. I know everyone does things a little differently but I would really like to have an instruction manual on how to get the floor and framing done. The tentative plan is to frame with 2x4s or 2x3s. Do those just get bolted to those ribs of the bus. I think I've been over thinking but was wondering if anyone had a lot of free time and wanted to help me without advising me to read more build threads. I have gone through quite a few but I think I over think things and confuse myself.

How the floor gets attached and how it corresponds or attached to the walls and if I can run my bus with the air ride seat detached are my big ones right now. Pm me if you want to help and I can give out my phone number too
I also live in Kalamazoo. Did you finish your bus?
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Old 03-31-2021, 12:11 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
If anything you'll only be leaking a little bit of coolant. Pinch off the two lines before you disconnect, and pull it apart. Use a 1" hose barb to loop stuff together. Remember this coolant loop feeds the windshield defroster heater core up front too.
Something to be aware of -- coolant leaks from interior heaters or coolant lines are dangerous. Breathing fumes from hot antifreeze can make you extremely sick -- if you're lucky. It has been known to kill. If you have a metallic taste in your mouth while inside a vehicle with the engine running, coolant leaks could be poisoning you. And it doesn't take a lot of exposure to make you extremely sick or even kill you.
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Old 03-31-2021, 12:33 AM   #40
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Year: 1998
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I seem to be constantly sucked in to 5 year old threads. I'm just about to add my $.02 of questionable wisdom and realize it.
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