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Old 05-18-2023, 09:12 AM   #1
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Fleet technician

Hello everyone , I am working on a 2017 international bus. The problem I have is the pressure light and alarm keep going on when driving. I have a code 2584 but canít find any information on it. I check the brake lights and brake switch also the pressure switches have been changed from another bud and still same problem. Need some help if possible. Thanks.

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Old 05-18-2023, 01:54 PM   #2
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air brakes?
juice brakes or air over hydraulics?
do you have an air dryer?
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Old 05-18-2023, 02:05 PM   #3
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Hydraulic, no dryer. Also have an issue with the battery gauge reading incorrect. It’s charging at 14.2 but gauge reads 11.5 to 12 and will drop if any lights are turned on.
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Old 05-18-2023, 03:45 PM   #4
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so i can only assume the hydro boost brake system which shares fluid with the power steering.
if i am remembering correctly?
international was known for bad guage clusters but i would have thought they would have had it figured out by 2017.
as far as the voltage drop i would start looking at ground connections and or condition of the cables.
12v is basically a dead battery and it could be a bad battery.
you said you read 14v so i assume from the alternator?
do you get a voltage drop at the alternator when you turn accessories on or just at the batteries?
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Old 05-18-2023, 03:53 PM   #5
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also i think school bus fleet or something like that is where all the fleet owners/mechanics or whoever discuss there problems with others. 2017 is to new for me my newest one is a 2004 chevy cutaway and my 86 is all mechanical and not to many gremlins to chase.
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Old 05-24-2023, 03:52 PM   #6
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Here's the link Jolly referenced: https://www.schoolbusfleet.com/forum/

Best of luck! I know nothing, else I'd try to help.
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Old 05-24-2023, 09:21 PM   #7
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Hello T-bucket,
so ya electrical can be frustrating?
sometimes it can be simple as bad connections?
like JR said grounds are very important and people tend not look at that?

1) remove cables from batteries +/- and clean, scrap, wirebrush the **** out of the terminal post & inside of connectors. if you see a bunch of buildup were the wire goes into the connector they may be bad. sometimes you can get away with pouring coca-cola on it temporarily. clean everything up real good!

you would be surprised how many times my crew would call and say the equipment wont start even jumping it. i would make them clean the connections up then everything was good to go.

2) i use a little motorcycle battery, test light & some small wiring with clips on the end like little jumper cables. it comes in handy when tracking down gremlins & electrical issues. you can easily check your gauge by hooking up the little battery & little cables directly to it. depending on the gauge you shouldnt have to turn the bus on or anything. but you will have to get behind the gauge/dash to hook up the baby cables directly to it.

3) check all the ground wires behind the dash or any where for that matter. again remove it wirebrush it and put it back. some times i add additional ground wires in various places just because of how important they can be and usually dont hurt to have too many....

4) from there ya just gatta start testing things with process of elimination but it does take some knowledge. when i got my bus i got rid of all the extra wireing that didnt belong. i put everything back OEM ford & thomas. then all of a sudden my brake lights started working again! i never could figure out what the root cause was? but everything has been working perfect ever since! so keep in mind any wiring you come across that doesnt look OEM may also be a good place to start looking. but be carefull dont start yanking stuff out unless you know what your doing LOL could make thinds worse.

anyway i hope i didnt throw too much at ya?
be patient and my moto is " take two & think things through "
i hope this helps.

enjoy the build!
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Old 05-25-2023, 07:24 AM   #8
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Tbucket issue sounds like a grounding problem.. if the dash gauge is reading 11.2 yet you have 14.2 at the batteries.. also measure from the battery positive to the bus frame and see if the voltage is the same.. if its not then you know your issue is a main ground reference to the bus frame...



see if you can get hold of a scan tool and read the ECM data.. if the voltage on the ECM is also reading in the 11s it will cause all kinds of issues and toss alarms from reference errors on sensors..



but id first start by placing a meter probe on positive battery terminal.. and then probe the negative at various places on the bus frame and around the engine block / frame to see if variances exist..
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Old 05-25-2023, 10:23 PM   #9
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For any Hydro Boost application with low pressure alarms this is what I do.

With everything at operating temperature, make a hard brake application while cranking the steering wheel real hard left and right till your arm falls off. Either the alarm will begin going off, warning lights come on, steering becomes hard or the electric assist motor will activate. Sign of weak pump. If none of that happens and works fine then the "pressure" from the pump side of things is typically good.

With that out of the way, I agree with everyone here. Start with the electrical first, check your grounds and power studs on the fire wall or dash. On a number of occasions I have found corroded wires coming out of the battery box/chaff points. Also please check very closely at the starter. Allot of manufactures like to use the starter post to supply voltage power leads to everything else from it. I just fixed a 12 speed auto shift transmission that uses a single 12 gauge wire straight off the starter to supply power to the module to shift the transmission.

As for code 2584, from what I remember from international truck; that code strikes me as a body control module code/ID parameter. My last job I would be able to pull that information off of Mitchel Heavy Duty. Unfortunately I took my job with another company that is just starting up a truck maintenance shop that has nothing. We are just focusing on the mechanical aspect of the trucks and sending to the dealer for all electrical/engine or anything requiring expensive shop tools. Its a very slow shop maintenance start up *sigh*. Sorry, went off topic. I'm horrible for that.
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