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Old 06-02-2018, 08:35 PM   #21
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 200
Well done! I have a 1997 amtrans 140,000 miles when I bought it at auction from a school in Kentucky. I checked the maintenance records- completed a DOT inspection 200 miles back. I did a pre trip, Iím a commercial driver so itís a natural thing for me to do. Get the Dmv guide for commercial drivers and use that checklist daily. Learn what to look for and adjusting the brakes. We drive 2200 miles without a hitch. Iíve another truck with that engine and transmission combination- change the oil at 8000 miles not the recommended 10,000 miles. Use a good oil rotella.
145,000 miles you will need to replace the rear main seal $1300. Itís a international thing- but the engine is solid and loves routine maintenance. The engine can be turned up a wee bit depending on pistons and rods. JUST DO NOT LET ANYONE REFLASH YOUR engine computer. Demand it. In writing do not reflash computer.
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:41 PM   #22
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Run that 530e at 2000 rpm- itís happy in that torque curve RPM. Is yours the 275 hp or 300hp? Remember in the Allison transmission it will upshift when you are trying to HOLD it in a gear. So down shift and learn how to brake.
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:44 PM   #23
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On my trip home I found that my 466 175hp would overheat- so we ran the heaters -3 of them inside the bus. That dropped the engine heat quickly- Btw. International has crappy instrument clusters, think circuit board with cracks- sometimes you hit a bump and the dash stops working, hit another bump and it starts up again, Fine the sweet spot and tap the dash there.
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:56 PM   #24
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Year: 2000
Chassis: International Amtran
Engine: DT530E
Rated Cap: 84
So I picked her up today, she started right up and ran fine the only issue I was dealing with is a constant buzzer that wont go off. All the gauges are fine and all emergency exits are closed. The buzzing didn't keep me from driving at all just a bit annoying with a 30 hour drive ahead, any ideas as to what this would be?
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:58 PM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Year: 2000
Chassis: International Amtran
Engine: DT530E
Rated Cap: 84
Here she is, currently waiting on the service/inspection to be completed before I hit the road.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Eclipse436 View Post
So I picked her up today, she started right up and ran fine the only issue I was dealing with is a constant buzzer that wont go off. All the gauges are fine and all emergency exits are closed. The buzzing didn't keep me from driving at all just a bit annoying with a 30 hour drive ahead, any ideas as to what this would be?
Double check ALL emergency exits. Doors, windows, and hatches.
Or find the buzzer and remove the ground wire.
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:56 AM   #27
Skoolie
 
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Buzzer

Check air pressure! Low air has a buzzer, If the sender is defective get the mechanic to exchange it. If you run out of air the brakes will automatically apply. Google operating AIR BRAKES.
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Old 06-06-2018, 05:38 AM   #28
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Year: 2000
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Engine: DT530E
Rated Cap: 84
Figured out the buzzer was from a wire left over from systems they removed, got the wire grounded and was on my way. Stopped for rest last night and when I got up to head out my air door started leaking air. Anyone know if I can bypass this or what this part is? It developed a pin hole that is now leaking air when pressure is over 70. It's the black part in the middle.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:03 AM   #29
Skoolie
 
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Go to Napa auto parts have the counter guy look and see if he has one. Or. Find the inlet pressure line and crimp it shut. The operate the door manually.
Zip tie the airline folded back on itself.
Also look for a small brass needle valve and shut it off, see if that shuts the air off.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:19 AM   #30
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Iowa
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Year: 2000
Chassis: International Amtran
Engine: DT530E
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtdoctor View Post
Go to Napa auto parts have the counter guy look and see if he has one. Or. Find the inlet pressure line and crimp it shut. The operate the door manually.
Zip tie the airline folded back on itself.
Also look for a small brass needle valve and shut it off, see if that shuts the air off.
I'm assuming this is the air pressure regulator for the door? Would I be able to buy a general regulator to put in its place for now? No napa around me at the moment
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:10 AM   #31
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you'll likely need to bolt the door closed if you disable the air to it... normally the door needs air pressure to close..



how bad is it leakiong? is it keeping your main air gauge from reaching 120?
-Christopher
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:22 AM   #32
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 24
Year: 2000
Chassis: International Amtran
Engine: DT530E
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
you'll likely need to bolt the door closed if you disable the air to it... normally the door needs air pressure to close..



how bad is it leakiong? is it keeping your main air gauge from reaching 120?
-Christopher
Main tank reaches 120 but secondary tank drops to 100 refills and drops again, worried I might put a lot of stress on the compressor, still have about 20 hours to drive
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:54 AM   #33
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 24
Year: 2000
Chassis: International Amtran
Engine: DT530E
Rated Cap: 84
I ended up pinching the line off and leaving the door in manual mode, I used the door lock to keep it shut on the road since I can access the pin from inside
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