Heading down the rabbit hole

[Dirtdoctor]

Well done! I have a 1997 amtrans 140,000 miles when I bought it at auction from a school in Kentucky. I checked the maintenance records- completed a DOT inspection 200 miles back. I did a pre trip, I’m a commercial driver so it’s a natural thing for me to do. Get the Dmv guide for commercial drivers and use that checklist daily. Learn what to look for and adjusting the brakes. We drive 2200 miles without a hitch. I’ve another truck with that engine and transmission combination- change the oil at 8000 miles not the recommended 10,000 miles. Use a good oil rotella.
145,000 miles you will need to replace the rear main seal $1300. It’s a international thing- but the engine is solid and loves routine maintenance. The engine can be turned up a wee bit depending on pistons and rods. JUST DO NOT LET ANYONE REFLASH YOUR engine computer. Demand it. In writing do not reflash computer.

[Dirtdoctor]

Run that 530e at 2000 rpm- it’s happy in that torque curve RPM. Is yours the 275 hp or 300hp? Remember in the Allison transmission it will upshift when you are trying to HOLD it in a gear. So down shift and learn how to brake.

[Dirtdoctor]

On my trip home I found that my 466 175hp would overheat- so we ran the heaters -3 of them inside the bus. That dropped the engine heat quickly- Btw. International has crappy instrument clusters, think circuit board with cracks- sometimes you hit a bump and the dash stops working, hit another bump and it starts up again, Fine the sweet spot and tap the dash there.

[Eclipse436]

So I picked her up today, she started right up and ran fine the only issue I was dealing with is a constant buzzer that wont go off. All the gauges are fine and all emergency exits are closed. The buzzing didn't keep me from driving at all just a bit annoying with a 30 hour drive ahead, any ideas as to what this would be?

[Eclipse436]

Here she is, currently waiting on the service/inspection to be completed before I hit the road.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Eclipse436

So I picked her up today, she started right up and ran fine the only issue I was dealing with is a constant buzzer that wont go off. All the gauges are fine and all emergency exits are closed. The buzzing didn't keep me from driving at all just a bit annoying with a 30 hour drive ahead, any ideas as to what this would be?

Double check ALL emergency exits. Doors, windows, and hatches.
Or find the buzzer and remove the ground wire.

[Dirtdoctor]

Check air pressure! Low air has a buzzer, If the sender is defective get the mechanic to exchange it. If you run out of air the brakes will automatically apply. Google operating AIR BRAKES.

[Eclipse436]

Figured out the buzzer was from a wire left over from systems they removed, got the wire grounded and was on my way. Stopped for rest last night and when I got up to head out my air door started leaking air. Anyone know if I can bypass this or what this part is? It developed a pin hole that is now leaking air when pressure is over 70. It's the black part in the middle.

[Dirtdoctor]

Go to Napa auto parts have the counter guy look and see if he has one. Or. Find the inlet pressure line and crimp it shut. The operate the door manually.
Zip tie the airline folded back on itself.
Also look for a small brass needle valve and shut it off, see if that shuts the air off.

[Eclipse436]

Originally Posted by Dirtdoctor

Go to Napa auto parts have the counter guy look and see if he has one. Or. Find the inlet pressure line and crimp it shut. The operate the door manually.
Zip tie the airline folded back on itself.
Also look for a small brass needle valve and shut it off, see if that shuts the air off.

I'm assuming this is the air pressure regulator for the door? Would I be able to buy a general regulator to put in its place for now? No napa around me at the moment

[cadillackid]

you'll likely need to bolt the door closed if you disable the air to it... normally the door needs air pressure to close..



how bad is it leakiong? is it keeping your main air gauge from reaching 120?
-Christopher

[Eclipse436]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

you'll likely need to bolt the door closed if you disable the air to it... normally the door needs air pressure to close..



how bad is it leakiong? is it keeping your main air gauge from reaching 120?
-Christopher

Main tank reaches 120 but secondary tank drops to 100 refills and drops again, worried I might put a lot of stress on the compressor, still have about 20 hours to drive

[Eclipse436]

I ended up pinching the line off and leaving the door in manual mode, I used the door lock to keep it shut on the road since I can access the pin from inside